Steep down on mud

jeannot18
jeannot18 Posts: 720
edited October 2012 in MTB beginners
Could someone clarify the best technique to go down steep slopes that are really muddy. Last one i did, I blocked the back wheel and ended up in the bushes :lol: Do you brake and release and let the bike re-correct itself? Any tips would be appreciated
JC
Pédale ou crève
Specialized Elite Allez with 105
Rockrider 8.1 : )

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    'Locked' back wheel unless you're German!

    Feather the rear brake on and off to keep lateral grip, make sure your weight is back to give it some grip, you can often use a little front as well to keep speed in check.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Actually, the majority of your speed control is done with the front.
  • Point it at the exit and let it run!

    Front is your buddy but you definitely want to avoid locking it, shift your weight back to keep your centre of mass int he middle of the bike and to stop you going over the bars, back brake locked up can actually help rudder you down a hill if need be but its not the best for the trail so try not to do that!

    Worse case its only mud so at least its a soft landing.
    Closet jockey wheel pimp whore.
  • Thanks guys, I need to practice some more. Just get nervous on those steep down, feels like I can't control the speed, it's not too bad when at the bottom of if you can have a clear run, but some you have a very sharp turn and can't really come too fast (well I can't).
    JC
    Pédale ou crève
    Specialized Elite Allez with 105
    Rockrider 8.1 : )
  • On some slopes, there really is just no way to control the speed at all - there's just not enough traction available to shed your speed, in which case you have to just pick a line down it, aim, and hope for the best!
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Thiis^^^^^^^^
    Although at that point a foot jammed down will get you round curves - the tripod is a very stable thing.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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    Parktools
  • That technique can also sprain your ankle though - it did mine in the Alps once, tried dragging a foot into a right hander on a steep slope, bike slid out on off camber and a rolled my ankle over.
    Closet jockey wheel pimp whore.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    And falling off can break your neck. Your point is?
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • shemap
    shemap Posts: 8
    My local forest is full of steep down hills that are all muddy or even grass depending on how many people have been riding.

    Feathering is deffo the way forward, this is where I find a big 203 front disc rotor and a quality well tuned brake lever is of maximum benefit.

    Then seat down, ass over the back, plenty of back brake and feather the front. if its not to techy and you can see a safe exit point, Ill some times lock the back and just point in the direction I want to go then roll out once you know your speed can be controlled.
    Im no expert but this works for me :D
  • Locking the brakes is normally not a great idea on steep muddy slopes, as others have said pick your line and try to feather your way down.

    This said I run big soft mud spike tyres so fair old amount of grip, the danger being wet root!
  • Depends on the slope really. I hit a slope that was really muddy and it was slick as anything. I had almost no control so I scanned for potential safe crash points, analysed the slope used some back brake to control the rear for turning and let the bike roll. I used the front, but tended to pump it if it would not hold non-locked.

    Look where you want to go and and don't over think it because the brain will work it out for you.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    If you struggle feathering the rear, then cadance brake (lock/unlock/lock/unlock cycles) like ABS to keep it pointing the way you want.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.