Time for a change,(but which sort of change)?

Time.to.ride
Time.to.ride Posts: 463
edited October 2012 in MTB buying advice
Hi all,

I have a Orange P7 which most of you would have seen on here, i have it currently for sale in classifieds but i am torn wether i get a new frame and fit as many parts as possible from P7 to new frame or sell for parts and put toward new bike

Any ideas on what frame, let me know taking into account the geometry of P7 and size diameters.

Thanks

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Personally I'm continually upgrading and then moving on old bits so in your case I'd buy a frame, move over what suits from the Orange, sell what doesn't and buy what you need.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Time.to.ride
    Time.to.ride Posts: 463
    kinda where i was going mate in my train of thought, but not many companies are selling hardtail frames as they would all rather sell you a complete bike lol so rather limited i am guessing
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Lots of frame options, on-one have a plethora ranging from carbon through ally to steel, Merlin have a range as well (Malts and rock lobsters), then you have Ragley etc etc, plus look at the big chains like wiggle and CRC as they often have 'service' frames that are unlikely to be needed are being sold off as well, for example Wiggle currently have a Giant frame in for a couple of hundred.

    Or get a really good used one!

    What sort of frame do you want, XC, trail, Enduro, AM, DH, FS or HT?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Time.to.ride
    Time.to.ride Posts: 463
    Gonna stick with HT and xc
  • Time.to.ride
    Time.to.ride Posts: 463
    People, give me some ideas i need you guys to tell me what frames are very similar in diameters of holes like seat tube, headset/handlebar/fork sizes, and bb etc.... help needed pleaseee!!

    Thanks
    Gary
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Yeah right, you need to do your own homework - make a list of the main components you have, and then match them up to any frames you're looking at.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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  • mrmonkfinger
    mrmonkfinger Posts: 1,452
    Crazy idea - you could just buy another seatpost and headset if it turns out to be a different size.
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  • 70\ʹspenguin
    70\ʹspenguin Posts: 957
    The P7 is pretty slack and you had stiff forks on it so i am assuming you arent bothered about running long forks especially as you want to ride XC, right? If you want another steel frame then you could go for things like Rock lobster, Cotic Soul, Charge Duster, Pipedream, Prince Albert, Cove Handjob etc.

    A little more racy and go super light with On One Whippet carbon?

    .....dunno
  • Time.to.ride
    Time.to.ride Posts: 463
    thanks 70\'s Penguin Some nice frames there was thinking of slightly nipper and the On One Whippet seems to be highly spokern of, although the charge duster and the Cove do appeal.
    I know its a case of matching up diameters etc and ideally i don't want to loose the main components if i can help it as i don't really have loads of £££ to spare on replacing them all lol. i will prob upgrade the b/b and brakes, but would like to keep forks,bars/stem and the seatpost, and drive train
  • Time.to.ride
    Time.to.ride Posts: 463
    Ps what do you mean by pretty slack? I am not quite sure what you mean sorry
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    He's refering to the head angle, a lower angle is referred to as slacker and gives a more stable ride, about 70 degrees is an XC bike through to 65 or less for a pure downhiller.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • 70\ʹspenguin
    70\ʹspenguin Posts: 957
    The head angle is less steep on the p7 (68 deg) than on many XC only oriented frames. The less angle = more slack. Around 70-71 for tight turning shorter forked bikes and 65-69 for more "slack" Am and downhill type ones.

    Not the greatest explanation but basically i was just assuming you werent bothered aboutr having a nother slack angled bike that can take bigger forks as you were riding rigid.
  • Time.to.ride
    Time.to.ride Posts: 463
    Yeah you assumed right mate, the rigids i use are 140mm so they are adequate
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Time.to.ride wrote:
    Yeah you assumed right mate, the rigids i use are 140mm so they are adequate
    This doesn't make sense - 140mm relates to travel, and rigids don't have any.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • Time.to.ride
    Time.to.ride Posts: 463
    cooldad wrote:
    Time.to.ride wrote:
    Yeah you assumed right mate, the rigids i use are 140mm so they are adequate
    This doesn't make sense - 140mm relates to travel, and rigids don't have any.

    Sorry i ment 44.5cm was ref to fork length lol
    am getting tired, long day mate
  • 70\ʹspenguin
    70\ʹspenguin Posts: 957
    Time.to.ride wrote:
    cooldad wrote:
    Time.to.ride wrote:
    Yeah you assumed right mate, the rigids i use are 140mm so they are adequate
    This doesn't make sense - 140mm relates to travel, and rigids don't have any.

    Sorry i ment 44.5cm was ref to fork length lol
    am getting tired, long day mate


    Just to clarify the forks you have are set up to compensate 100mm forks. :)
  • Time.to.ride
    Time.to.ride Posts: 463
    yeah its the length of top of crown to the centre of hub

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