MTB to commuter

kayliss
kayliss Posts: 5
edited September 2012 in Commuting general
Hi i decided to buy a bike to get fit on so i decided to do a ride to work scheme and bought a carrera Vulcan thinking it was a nice looking bike and not having a clue what bike i needed to commute to work, now my commute is a 34 mile round trip which i havent started yet as i am trying to get my fitness up as i am 42 years old and not ridden since i was 12. i have had the bike 5 weeks and i ride 5 to 6 time a week and about 10 miles each time which has done me good as i have gone from 15 stone down to 13 St 5 lb in that 5 weeks but even though its easier now than when i started i thinki i will struggle to do the full return trip is there anything i can do that will make the 34 mile round trip easier as i guess my bike is better suited to riding in the mud to riding on roads?

Comments

  • Yes, change fork and tyres. Rigid fork + slick/touring tyres will make 90% of the difference.
  • my forks have a lockout which i guess means i can make them rigid and what slick tyres the ones i have are 26" 215 is that the siz slicks i need to get or can i get smaller as i see alot of 26" x 1.5 at a good price?
  • Mikey41
    Mikey41 Posts: 690
    26x1.5 would be the ones to go for, they really do make a huge difference to an MTB on the road. Lock out the forks too. Then you'll find out how short MTB gearing really is :)
    Giant Defy 2 (2012)
    Giant Defy Advanced 2 (2013)
    Giant Revel 1 Ltd (2013)
    Strava
  • I'm commuting on a Carrera Crossfire and I've been wondering about the suspension. There is a dial to increase or decrease springiness (making decidedly no difference on max or min) but I was hoping there would be a way to lock it completely. I often wonder as I bounce along how much energy I've wasted on up and down movement.
    Specialized Allez 2010
    Strava
  • i have seen some shwalbe 1.95 city jets would these be ok or does it need to be 1.5 to get the benefits of slicks?
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    The dial on the fork on the Crossfire is for Preload, this sets sag and does not affect spring rate.

    Is worth upgrading to rigid forks completely as the forks on both these Carreras are heavy.

    1.95 will offer more comfort, but will be heavier.
  • Main draw back on an MTB for commuting is the gearing and small tyres are only going to exacerbate this since your driving a smaller circumference final gear (the wheel). I changed my front rings to 48-36-26 as I was spinning out on 44-12 even on the flat sometimes. I currently ride 1.2 Gatorskin at the front and 1.6 SportContact at the rear, it seems to be a good balance and the 1.2 Gators always felt a bit loose at the rear so with a 1.6 I have more confidence cornering and a little more grip if I hit mud. In my experience it takes mud, grass or fairly fine gravel to unsettle a bike on slicks.

    Tips to keep you going:
    - Keep your tyre pressures up, you should be safe to go 10-20% over the recommended this will reduce rolling resistance.
    - The 1.95 CityJets are a good place to start
    - Keep your cadence (pedalling RPMs) high, it's easier to maintain decent speeds for longer distances this way.
    - Lock your fork if you can, if it's an air fork try increasing the pressure to stiffen it up
    - Swap out the chain set for a commuter oriented 48T big ring
    - You have a relatively heavy bike, use momentum when you can to avoid having to get back up to speed again spinning at high RPMs can help maintain momentum

    Your weight loss seems a bit to quick to be entirely healthy so perhaps you aren't fuelling right and that is reducing your stamina, like you've burned off loads of fat but haven't yet built up your riding muscles so maybe now focus on body fat ratio rather than weight.

    Finally if you aren't going to ride the Vulcan down your local trail centre's red (you don't need suspension for red runs but it helps a lot and is overkill for anything less) grade trails, then you don't really need the fork, so you might as well sell the bike to someone that will use it properly and buy an entry level road bike like the Carrera TdF. Technical trails are a great way to improve your bike handling skills and confidence, especially if you can go out with a guide or friend who knows what they're doing so try it a few times before you decide to get rid, you might just love it.
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • passout
    passout Posts: 4,425
    Certainly go for slick tyres & get some decent ones - you won't regret it. If you have the cash, rigid forks do make sense although no rush there. Gearing will be fine although you are unlikely to use the lower half of the range very much.
    'Happiness serves hardly any other purpose than to make unhappiness possible' Marcel Proust.
  • Thanks initailised for the tips and yeah i have lost the weight quickly but i am at a weight where i am comfortable now so will start eating properly while i train as for changing the forks i dont have the cash to make drastic changes as it is a bit of a sore point at home me spending more money on that "damn bike" at the moment which is why i was wondering if schwalbe jet city 1.95s would be as beneficail to me as the 1.5's as i wouldn't have to buy new innertubes
  • inkz
    inkz Posts: 123
    I commute on a Carrera Fury 2004 and I've kitted it with a pair of Schwalbe Cityjet 1.5.

    The 1.5 are still quite big so I'd definately go for the 1.5s. I bought mine from highonbikes on Ebay.

    I also have a Carradice Trax saddlebag, Crud Raceguards and a Neoguard to stop water going in my eyes which makes it a pretty good commuting machine.

    If you are stuck with the Vulcan I would definitely look at getting some weight off of it. Forks would be a good place to start, they are massive!
  • Mikey41 wrote:
    26x1.5 would be the ones to go for, they really do make a huge difference to an MTB on the road. Lock out the forks too. Then you'll find out how short MTB gearing really is :)
    +1
    When i dig out my rigid MTB with travel contacts when the weather is icy i spin out the top gear on the flat compared to mid block on the road bike , the weight is another factor as well as you need to work harder to overcome the weight of the bike and its rolling resistance.On a hill wasonce talking to a guy on a road bike and i had to pedal to keep paceo f his freewheeling.
    For a 34 mile round trip i would do as others have said with tyres/fork lock out or cut your losses and sell the MTB and look for a more road orientated bike be it a flat bar bike, road bike , tourer or CX.
    FCN 3/5/9
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    You can get tubes for as little as £4 each if you shop around, I like Schwalbe as they are quite light, look for some used slicks on ebay, they often sell for less than a tenner a pair leaving you money for tubes. Make a note of fuel savings to justify expenditure to your 'accountant'!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • mtb-idle
    mtb-idle Posts: 2,179
    yes, get some 700c wheels with discs and 23 or 25c tyres like the one i kitted out for my youngest to commute on:

    21-07-2012_01.jpg
    FCN = 4