Radon ZR Team 6.0

mizzen
mizzen Posts: 7
edited September 2012 in MTB buying advice
http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/k1830/a58198/zr-team-6-0.html#

I'm just about to go for this one. After hours of research I think there is hardly anything else within this price bracket offering similar value for money. Can anyone possibly comment on the mech fitted with Radon? How does it compare to SRAM X7 or X9?

Also, what do you think would be worth upgrading at some point? I've seen some negative comments about the crankset on the German forum but dunno if it was one-off problem or something more serious...

Thanks

Comments

  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    It's a Shimano, so a lot better.

    What's the point in looking to upgrade a bike you haven't even picked yet?
    I don't do smileys.

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  • Oh Marone
    Oh Marone Posts: 261
    My team 6 (2012 model) turned up last week (6 days after ordering) so if you have any questions fire away.

    First thing is the brakes will come in the euro set up, ie wrong way round (they drive on the wrong side of the road). Will be swapping the hoses over myself but need to order some oil and hose fittings. Rear line will probably need shortening so needs a new fitting.

    The pedals that come with the bike are absolute junk so I ordered some Superstar nano through pin pedals which are superb. Good size platform for my size 11's and very grippy, got mine in red to match the decals on bike (black bike btw). The only other thing I might swap is the handle bar grips to something a bit thicker. Nothing wrong with them but I have fairly big hands and they feel a bit skinny for my liking, that was without gloves though as I am waiting for those to arrive from CRC.

    The wheels are not the lightest around, at least going by a review of £650-£900 bikes in a recent bike mag. Not the bike itself but one of the bikes had the same wheels. Think one set of wheels on one of the bikes was about 600g lighter per set. Have to say they feel very light to me but might be a potential upgrade further down the line. Can't see anything else that needs upgrading, mid range Shimano gear but feels nice and responsive.

    Really impressed with the bike though and is a very nice piece of kit, looks very sexy in the flesh as well especially in black. Typical German build quality and the frame is anodized. For the money I havn't seen anything else with the same level of spec, especially the fork. You would be looking at least £800+ for a bike in the UK to get a Reba fork. Spent a good few weeks checking reviews and shops etc and the Radon was just to good a bargain to pass up.
  • One 80
    One 80 Posts: 62
    very smart looking bike is all i can say
    Boardman comp 2012
  • mizzen
    mizzen Posts: 7
    cooldad wrote:
    It's a Shimano, so a lot better.

    What's the point in looking to upgrade a bike you haven't even picked yet?

    I'm not saying that I will upgrade as soon as I buy it. Just making sure there is no catch somewhere as the bike with that sort of specs really looks like a bargain. From my experience I would imagine that cost savings just have to be somewhere and I would like to know where in that particular case.

    Sometimes, like in case of Rockrider 8.1 that would be the frame which is a deal-braker for me as I want a decent platform for future upgrades.
    Oh Marone wrote:
    First thing is the brakes will come in the euro set up, ie wrong way round (they drive on the wrong side of the road). Will be swapping the hoses over myself but need to order some oil and hose fittings. Rear line will probably need shortening so needs a new fitting.

    I've heard something about it before, but does it really make such a huge difference? I don't think I would be willing to do the swap unless absolutely necessary...
  • chrisw333
    chrisw333 Posts: 695
    mizzen wrote:
    Just making sure there is no catch somewhere as the bike with that sort of specs really looks like a bargain. From my experience I would imagine that cost savings just have to be somewhere and I would like to know where in that particular case.

    Sometimes, like in case of Rockrider 8.1 that would be the frame which is a deal-braker for me as I want a decent platform for future upgrades.

    This will be interesting...
  • mizzen
    mizzen Posts: 7
    chrisw333 wrote:
    mizzen wrote:
    Just making sure there is no catch somewhere as the bike with that sort of specs really looks like a bargain. From my experience I would imagine that cost savings just have to be somewhere and I would like to know where in that particular case.

    Sometimes, like in case of Rockrider 8.1 that would be the frame which is a deal-braker for me as I want a decent platform for future upgrades.

    This will be interesting...

    Sarcasm?
  • benpinnick
    benpinnick Posts: 4,148
    mizzen wrote:
    cooldad wrote:
    It's a Shimano, so a lot better.

    What's the point in looking to upgrade a bike you haven't even picked yet?

    I'm not saying that I will upgrade as soon as I buy it. Just making sure there is no catch somewhere as the bike with that sort of specs really looks like a bargain. From my experience I would imagine that cost savings just have to be somewhere and I would like to know where in that particular case.

    Sometimes, like in case of Rockrider 8.1 that would be the frame which is a deal-braker for me as I want a decent platform for future upgrades.
    Oh Marone wrote:
    First thing is the brakes will come in the euro set up, ie wrong way round (they drive on the wrong side of the road). Will be swapping the hoses over myself but need to order some oil and hose fittings. Rear line will probably need shortening so needs a new fitting.

    I've heard something about it before, but does it really make such a huge difference? I don't think I would be willing to do the swap unless absolutely necessary...

    Swapping brakes around is normally a very easy job. Simply unscrew the hose from both sides, and screw back in the other way. Assuming there is enough slack in the hose, and you don't wave it about too much (or squeeze the lever while the hose is off, you should be able to reassemble and not have any troubles.
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.
  • chez_m356
    chez_m356 Posts: 1,893
    mizzen wrote:
    Sometimes, like in case of Rockrider 8.1 that would be the frame which is a deal-braker for me as I want a decent platform for future upgrades.
    and the Radon's frame is better than the 8.1's because ?
    Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc 10- CANYON Nerve AM 6 2011
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Aryan instead of spineless froggy.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • benpinnick
    benpinnick Posts: 4,148
    The top tube cable routing on the 8.1 would be enough to put me off. The frame on the 8.1 is portly too.
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.
  • chrisw333
    chrisw333 Posts: 695
    mizzen wrote:
    chrisw333 wrote:
    mizzen wrote:
    Just making sure there is no catch somewhere as the bike with that sort of specs really looks like a bargain. From my experience I would imagine that cost savings just have to be somewhere and I would like to know where in that particular case.

    Sometimes, like in case of Rockrider 8.1 that would be the frame which is a deal-braker for me as I want a decent platform for future upgrades.

    This will be interesting...

    Sarcasm?
    Not really. But you’re stirring a hornets nest there and are likely to fuel a debate about the merits of frame construction. Most are made in the same, or similar factories. I’m highly doubtful the Rockrider frame is any inferior to the Radon…..
    chez_m356 wrote:

    And the Radon's frame is better than the 8.1's because ?

    There you go….
  • mizzen
    mizzen Posts: 7
    chez_m356 wrote:
    mizzen wrote:
    Sometimes, like in case of Rockrider 8.1 that would be the frame which is a deal-braker for me as I want a decent platform for future upgrades.
    and the Radon's frame is better than the 8.1's because ?

    Personal preference here mostly. Following the review on bikeradar: "old-school cross-country (XC) geometry" is not for me. I had the chance to sit on it and didn't like it. Besides, even the salesman admitted that frame quality is not as good as other components. He didn't explain what is exactly wrong with it.

    Comparing to the Radon I would say the aluminum it's made of is even better. 6061 is supposedly more corrosion resistant than 7005, which could be an important factor given the UK climate.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    You could be right about corrosion - I think the 7005 might last 100 years less than the 6061, which could last a gazillion years.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    The corrosion is a non factor. The frame quality is about the same. The Radon is great value, but they are quite short in the top tube.
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  • benpinnick
    benpinnick Posts: 4,148
    Its ze german way. Anyone would think they have some kind of genetic dispensation towards long stems and scary steering. As with Cubes etc.... Get the size above what you think, and drop the stem length.
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.
  • Oh Marone
    Oh Marone Posts: 261
    Regarding sizing I am 6ft (184cm) with an inside leg around 34" and went for the 20". The riding position is comfy rather than a race style which is perfect for me as I didn't want anything to stretched out. Have a bit of a dodgy back so a more upright position helps. Should make it easier to throw around on the twisty stuff as well. If you prefer a longer race position to the bars then I would go up a size.

    One of the reasons the Radons are such good value is due to the fact there is no distributor/dealer costs involved. Also the pound is a stronger currency than the euro so that helps as well. The frame doesn't look or feel cheap and a bike mad mate at work with very expensive tastes was impressed by the bike. Think I read somwhere that the frames are made by Cube.
  • mizzen
    mizzen Posts: 7
    Thanks everyone for the advice, just placed an order. 18" should be fine for me (175cm). I wouldn't go for 20" as this could be too high. I will post some feedback once the bike arrives. For now all I can say is that bike-discount.de looks like a very solid merchant. Prompt replies from customer services and no language issues.
  • Oh Marone
    Oh Marone Posts: 261
    Probably a good call going for an 18" for your height as I am on tippy toes when seated touching the ground. I was thinking about getting the 18" at first but was advised on the phone to go with the 20" at my height. The guy I spoke to had the same bike in 20" and was the same height as me.

    Keep checking the tracking number if you want to know when it will be delivered as they don't send an email to say its been picked up from their shop. Took 6 days for mine to arrive.
  • Belmont1884
    Belmont1884 Posts: 11
    When you're checking the tracking no. make sure you do it on DHL.de not DHL.co.uk or .com. I was checking the UK website and getting frustrated as it wasn't showing. Checked the German website by chance and it was just about to arrive at the airport. A couple of days later and my ZR Team 7 had arrived.

    I've already switched the brake levers over and changed the pedals, front brake cable is really short and is a really tight fit. The Formula RX brakes are still rubbing but I'm hoping after a few rides this will eventually stop.

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