Bike advice- sorry for the long post.

terapixels
terapixels Posts: 6
edited September 2012 in Commuting general
Having enjoyed commuting to work on my trusty old GT outpost 2000 MTB for a week or so, I have decided to look for a new bike to purchase when I get a bit quicker/ when the MTB dies.

I have duely done all the research and am now totally confused by the vast choices I have.

My problem-
My MTB weighs 31lb and I weigh 145lb and my journey is 5 miles each way. So far so good. However on the way home there is a 6 degree ascent for 1 mile which I can only just manage and I mean just manage on the granny gear (0.8). Yes, I am unfit. :cry: I do not want to be the "all the gear and no idea" cyclist who walks up that hillside with his new bike!

My question and main concern -

I am concern that if I don't get a bike with similarly low gearing then I won't be able to get up that hill. However I am not sure whether a lighter bike will balance out the lack of low gearing.

This leads me onto my choices/questions. I am using cycle scheme/bike2work scheme, so Road, cyclo or hybrid?

The bikes I have looked at:

1. Boardman - all of them!
2. Trek 8.6 DS
3. Sirrus comp 2013
4. Ribble road bikes
5. Planet X Uncle John
6. plus a whole load more.

Help!

Comments

  • getprg
    getprg Posts: 245
    My question and main concern -

    I am concern that if I don't get a bike with similarly low gearing then I won't be able to get up that hill. However I am not sure whether a lighter bike will balance out the lack of low gearing.

    You will be very surprised how much easier it is to climb on a road bike v MTB - even in higher gears than your MTB offers using the granny ring. The main reason being it is lighter and the tyres offer far less resistance.

    So FWIW my advice is choose a road bike with, because you are using it commute, fixings for proper mudguards. That way you will enjoy a fast comfy ride to work and, if you are bitten by the bug, you can ride at the weekends.

    As to which brand - try some out at your bike shop.
  • Hi,
    You'll certainly find a road bike much easier on the ascent but...I reckon you need mudguards and most road bike mudguards are so flimsy they won't take everyday knocks. You should also decide what you want to do about luggage; carry it on your back in a rucksack or in a pannier in which case you need a rack and not all road bikes will take one.

    I bought a road bike for my commute and it wouldn't take a rack so I used a rucksack to carry a clean shirt & socks every day and some waterproofs just in case. It was never very comfortable asthe rucksack guaranteed a sweaty back. Then I graduated to clip-in pedals. Much more efficient but, for me anyway, dangerous in traffic because they made me gung-ho; I didn't want to stop because of the millisecond chore of clippng in and out. The net result is that after a year I use my road bike for weekend runs and I've returned to my trusty old hybrid for the commute.

    Avoiding all the brand snobbery that's so prevalent in these pages, find a local bike shop you like and trust then follow their advice.

    Happy hunting.
  • Definitely agree with that last post. Find a good LBS - tell them what you're looking to achieve and they should sort you out. (Then buy it on the Internet! ha ha, only joking, I'm sure nobody would do that!)
  • passout
    passout Posts: 4,425
    A lower weight bike, bigger wheels with more momentum & nice slick tyres mean that you'd be fine on most hybrids, cx bikes, tourers or road bikes with either a compact or triple chain set. Just avoid any single speeds and road bikes with a 'double' chainset. MTBs are obviously appropriate too but don't use off road tyres. Plus you will get fitter! That leaves a wide range of bikes so consider if you want to use the bike for anything else - touring holidays, MTBing etc. Decide that way.
    'Happiness serves hardly any other purpose than to make unhappiness possible' Marcel Proust.
  • For commuting i would be looking at bikes that can take mudgaurds and some sort of rack be it seat post or one with proper proper mouting points for a dedicated rack.
    FCN 3/5/9
  • MichaelW
    MichaelW Posts: 2,164
    A commuter roadbike is a bit different to a competition race bike. Ideally, it will have more tyre clearance, threaded eyelets for rack and mudguards and gearing suitable for commuting ie compact double or road triple.
    You can hack a racebike to take mudguards and luggage but the hack involves clamps, zipties and other ugliness.
    See Audax and Winter Trainer style roadbikes.
  • CX bike with slicks and guards.
    Disc Trucker
    Kona Ute
    Rockrider 8.1
    Evil Resident
    Day 01 Disc
    Viking Derwent Tandem
    Planet X London Road
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    What is the actual gearing on your current bike in the lowest gear you use? If you match that ratio (or at least get close to) on the new bike you'll be fine, I get up an 8% gradiant on a 46:26 gear easily enough although I have 46:28 available.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • The gear ratio is about 1 :oops:
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Don't you have a small chainring?!
  • Just checked. 24/28. So about 0.8
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    A new bike for about £500 would be lighter (maybe as low as 23lbs), but the gearing may still be high, something to check. The entry level Boardman Hybrid Comp is excellent value at £500, but the lowest gear is 34/28, so even higher than you have!

    A cheap solution would be to change the gearing on your current bike, and maybe fit a couple of lighter parts.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Smaller road tyres will drop the gearing a few percent and the reduced rolling resistance would help as well.

    What tyres are you running and at what pressure? (Check don't guess) you want to be running at least 45psi on road, if your down in the low 20's psi the extra rolling resistance will really hurt!

    If your on typical MTB tyres of 1.95" consider getting some 1.5" slicks (schwalbe city jet are a good option on a budget) start with the rear first and get them upto 80psi with a track pump.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Just changed the MTB 1.9 tyres to City Jet 1.5 yesterday! They are a bit easier at 60psi but didn't pump it any higher than that because I was sure about my inner tube changing skills.

    To supersonic, what components would be worth changing? I don't really want to end up spending as much as a new bike!
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Tyres (but you ahve done that!), and if the gears are still too high, a longer range freewheel.
  • Thank you very much for all your comments and help. Will look at the freewheel option.
  • inkz
    inkz Posts: 123
    You've only been cycling a week. I've been going 6 months on my MTB and I had to walk the steepest hill at first, then after 2-3 weeks I did it in granny gear and then I slowley built the gears up, now I'm flying :)

    Putting road tires on my MTB made a MASSIVE difference. I got Schwalbe City Jets for about £22 from highonbikes on ebay.

    I've now ordered a silly race bike, and I'm going to hack mudguards on it and use my Carradice to carry my work stuff :P
  • The cyclocross bikes with road tyres on are great for what you have described.

    I wanted a road bike but needed to be able to commute - cant afford two bikes yet :( I chose the specialized tricross as good all-rounder. It has longer wheelbase and eyelets for a pannier rack and then mudguards can be fitted too. Got three chain rings so still got your granny gears if like me you need them. I love it! I had a trek 4500 WSD before (hard tail) with slicks and the difference in my own performance esp uphill is huge so im sure you would see a massive difference going from MTB.