E-Type Front Mech

tjp148

Afternoon guys, i'm after some advice on Shimano E-type Front Mech and their compatibility with my chainset...

I have a 2011 specialized camber pro frame with a 73mm BB shell, and have just bought a set of Raceface XC Ride cranks (inc. triple chainrings and a BB)

I have also bought a 9 speed cassette, chain, and rear mech so i can make use of an old LX 9 speed shifter unit....
The front mech in question is a 3 speed one compatible with 9 speed chains.

The problem i have encountered is that the instructions included with the cranks, state that e-type front mechs are not compatible with the raceface bb cups when being installed into a 73mm bb shell. I believe it is because they haven't devised the correct spacer combination or some similar problem...

My question is, has anyone encountered the same problem and used an e type front mech regardless?

I am trying to avoid the worst case scenario which is i have to return ALL my 9 speed kit and buy an E2 type front mech which would mean i'd need 2x10 drivetrain as 3x10 e2 type front mechs don't exist.

Thanks in advance for any comments/info

bikaholic

It has very little to do with the spacer combination since the thickness of the E-Type FD mounting plate is about the same as a 2.5mm spacer.

It has more to do with chain rub on the extreme chainring/sprocket combinations - in other words, chainline is too far outboard for the E-Type FD.

One other problem is that the smallest chainring/smallest sprocket combination might lower the chain too much as to rub against the inside lower surface of the FD since E-Type's are limited to two set height adjustments (determined by the orientation of the oval nut).

All that being said, I have no problems installing E-Type FDs on 73mm BB shells with RF X-Type chainsets (Deus XC, Evol XC; albeit not Ride XC).

You just need to be armed with a few tips and tricks:

1. If you absolutely can't tune out chain rub, then use a narrower 10 speed chain instead;
2. The E-Type FD is designed to be installed with the mounting plate parallel to the chainrings, but in some cases installing at a slight outboard or inboard angle may eliminate rub - do this by shimming the frame bolt point;
3. Improve chainline by shimming the cassette outboard;
4. Improve chainline by facing the driveside BB shell in order to add a spacer to the non driveside;
5. Improve chain shifting angles by reducing the size of the biggest chainring and/or cassette sprocket.

There are other tricks but they are a little too complicated without some special tools.

supersonic

Or sell the chainset and buy a Shimano HT2.

oxocube1

supersonic wrote:

Or sell the chainset and buy a Shimano HT2.

+1