Shimano brake bleed kit

Oh Marone

Hi I am looking for a bleed kit for Shimano AM 505 brakes as I need to swap the hoses over from the euro set up. My first potential problem is that my brakes don't seem to exist, even the Shimano site doesn't list them. Heres a pic of the bars, look very simillar to the deore brakes http://www3.bike-discount.de/bilder/xxl/59663/zr-team-6-0.jpg So when looking for kits I am not sure if it will work as they don't list my model for compatibility. Can' t imagine it would be a problem as surely all Shimano have the same fittings for bleeding etc.

Is there any real difference between the low cost kits on ebay like this one for example http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DR-COOPERS-SHIMANO-BRAKE-BLEED-KIT-DEORE-SLX-XT-SAINT-XTR-M515-/170907211063?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item27cadd1537 than the almost identical £20ish kits from some online retailers? The cheap kit is supposed to be genuine oil but being off ebay who knows for certain.

My other query is can I reuse the hose fitting from the lever end as I will need to shorten the rear brake hose? Also can you buy the plastic caliper spacers seperately? I have a plastic shipping brake spacer that came attached for transit but that is with the pads already installed. Might be able to use that but that would mean leaving the pads in when bleeding and a bit of spillage will ruin them.

Thanks

nicklouse

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 746864.pdf

bleed info for your brakes.

chris-red

I bled my brakes the same way I do motorcycle brakes. It's simple and dare I say it fool proof.

You need a tube the size of the bleed nipple some mineral oil (or brake fluid depending on the brakes) and a container (I use a jam jar)

You open the bleed nipple put the tube on it then put the other end of the tube in the jar half full with brake fluid*

Open the reservoir on the master cylinder and top up with the mineral oil/brake fluid, then just keep squeezing the lever every time you do it forces new fluid into the system and the old fluid/air out of the nipple into the tube, because the tube is submersed the air can't get back in keep pumping and make sure you top up the reservoir until bubbles stop coming out of the tube then tighten the nipple and remove the tube. Job done.


*You could put anything in the jar really I use brake fluid because it's normally the left overs from when I last in the motorcycle brakes. Also it;s clear and easy to see bubbles in. Dot 4 is a lot cheaper than Shimano oil!

Oh Marone

Thanks for the advice. Think I will buy that kit I linked to off ebay as the price of the oil alone is more than the bleed kit elsewhere. Looks like I will need to buy 2 universal olives as well, think these are the correct ones http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=1801

Just did a search for "shimano brake line" and found this http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/tech_support/tech_tips.download.-Par50rparsys-0008-downloadFile.html/02%29%20Brake%20Hose%20Trimming.pdf .Should work the same if the brakes are already installed, I hope.

JCJC

Is that process for shortening the hoses as simple as it looks? I have just ordered some 596 deore brakes and I am expecting to have to do this. I am no bike mechanic by the way by any stretch of the imagination .....

http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/ ... imming.pdf

Many thanks

Oh Marone wrote:

Thanks for the advice.

Just did a search for "shimano brake line" and found this http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/tech_support/tech_tips.download.-Par50rparsys-0008-downloadFile.html/02%29%20Brake%20Hose%20Trimming.pdf .Should work the same if the brakes are already installed, I hope.

bikaholic

JCJC wrote:

Is that process for shortening the hoses as simple as it looks? I have just ordered some 596 deore brakes and I am expecting to have to do this. I am no bike mechanic by the way by any stretch of the imagination .....

http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/ ... imming.pdf

Many thanks

...

Yes, that is easy to do, and all of the hose shortening methods that don't require a rebleed incorporate those central steps.

The way I do it is a small variation of those central steps. Firstly, I cut the hose on situ with it point upwards and without twanging it to avoid losing fluid.

Do one brake lever at a time and use the other as a reference. Count the number of exposed threads on the shroud nut - this will tell you how tight to do up the nut later on.

The barbed insert can be reused if you're able to extract it (two cuts on the olive with a dremel cutting wheel will release it).

If you don't have the yellow hose clamp blocks then you can make them out of blocks of wood with a v-groove cut down the middle.

As it is on situ, I use a small G-clamp on the blocks to hold the hose whilst tapping in the barbed insert.

Apply a small amount of grease onto the threads of the shroud nut and onto the olive contact point before assembling.

Finally, make sure to push the hose into the lever until it bottoms out and to maintain this pressure whilst screwing in the shroud nut - this will ensure that the olive is compressed onto the hose at the right place.

JCJC

Great - many thanks ! I will look to give it a go!

bikaholic

Oh Marone wrote:

...

Is there any real difference between the low cost kits on ebay like this one for example http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DR-COOPERS-SHIMANO-BRAKE-BLEED-KIT-DEORE-SLX-XT-SAINT-XTR-M515-/170907211063?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item27cadd1537 than the almost identical £20ish kits from some online retailers? The cheap kit is supposed to be genuine oil but being off ebay who knows for certain.

My other query is can I reuse the hose fitting from the lever end as I will need to shorten the rear brake hose? Also can you buy the plastic caliper spacers seperately? I have a plastic shipping brake spacer that came attached for transit but that is with the pads already installed. Might be able to use that but that would mean leaving the pads in when bleeding and a bit of spillage will ruin them.

Thanks

The cheaper kits may include hoses that are slightly shorter and with thinner walls than the genuine article. This means that they have a high chance of flaring at the connection end points and, hence, unplug itself. To prevent this, just put a hose olive or a nut around the connection point; or zip tie it.

Halfords LHM Plus mineral oil and other brands (eg Magura Royal Blood mineral oil) works just as well as Shimano mineral oil, so it does not matter if genuine Shimano oil is supplied or not.

As for the bleed blocks, just use a couple of coins taped together or use lolly sticks or use small blocks of wood etc. Hold them in with an elastic band. You leave the pads in if you want - depends on how careful you can be.

JCJC

JCJC wrote:

Great - many thanks ! I will look to give it a go!

I chickened out, so I just have slightly long cables now...