Road handlebars on an MTB-on road use

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Comments

  • bikaholic
    bikaholic Posts: 350
    The bike in the pictures was fitted with standard Shimano STI levers (brifters - brake and shifter combined, designed for drop bars). It was also fitted with crosstops to give the rider the option of stopping using the flat part of the bars (like using canti or v-brake levers).

    Brifters are available for triple chainsets, however, you may encounter chainstay clearance issues when using a standard or compact road triple - usually, the smallest chainring will hit the chainstay when correcting for chainline. That's why doubles are preferred.

    There are no clearance issues when using a mountain triple chainset, however, as the FD must be the road version (in order for it to work with the front brifter), the road FD may not be able to reach the outer chainring.

    Those two issues are frame and component choice dependent. There are tips and tricks to make them work.

    There are other ways of increasing the number of usable gears:

    1. Sunrace Sturmey Archer CS-RF3, combo internal 3 speed hub gear and 9 speed cassette;
    2. Campagnolo 11 speed brifters;
    3. Shimano, SRAM, Sunrace/Microshift 10 speed brifters.


    If you go "vintage" or "old school" then there are even more options and you could omit the brifters and still use drop bars.
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    So you've ended up with road bars, road brifters, road gearing.
    Why the hell did you ever buy a mountain bike in the first place?
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  • Mendalot
    Mendalot Posts: 3
    No, dont want road bike gearing! thinking about it, would be fine if using a twin set at the front with 48/32 rings and an 11/32 cassette. More than enough for playing with.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    While my frame is a 700c, I'm running mostly MTB stuff on my commuter and with only moderate hills on my commute am running an 11-28 cassette with a single 46T chainring up front, as a commute is predictable, if you know you don't need a twin ring at the front, why bother having one!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    The Beginner wrote:
    While my frame is a 700c, I'm running mostly MTB stuff on my commuter and with only moderate hills on my commute am running an 11-28 cassette with a single 46T chainring up front, as a commute is predictable, if you know you don't need a twin ring at the front, why bother having one!
    This thread's becoming less and less about mountain biking as it goes along.
    My photos
  • bikaholic
    bikaholic Posts: 350
    YeehaaMcgee wrote:
    The Beginner wrote:
    While my frame is a 700c, I'm running mostly MTB stuff on my commuter and with only moderate hills on my commute am running an 11-28 cassette with a single 46T chainring up front, as a commute is predictable, if you know you don't need a twin ring at the front, why bother having one!
    This thread's becoming less and less about mountain biking as it goes along.

    All connected, mate.

    There is very little difference between a mountain bike and a road bike. You'll see the light when you've got enough builds under your belt.
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    What's the tricking point of this thread then? If you're riding on the road, then you've got the wrong bike, end of.
    Enough builds under my belt? Give me strength.
    What the HELL makes you think you're so all knowing, when you can't even sort out a frigging handlebar?
    My photos
  • bikaholic
    bikaholic Posts: 350
    Did I poo-poo the OP's idea of putting drop bars on a MTB?

    Nope, I gave him/her useful pointers on how it could be done.
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    bikaholic wrote:
    Did I poo-poo the OP's idea of putting drop bars on a MTB?

    Nope, I gave him/her useful pointers on how it could be done.
    And yo ualso prattled on about gears, which he has no interest in changing, and claiming that there's very litle difference between road and MTB.
    Well, true, but those differences are substantial. mtbs have longer frames, longer wheelbases, far more relaxed geometry, different weight distribution, different chainstay lengths, are heavier, generalyl stiffer and stronger.
    Basically, apart from sharing some thread sized, and being a general base to attatch "bicycle components" to, they're about as different as you can get.
    You make it sound like they're the same, when in reality they're as different as a sports coupe, and a land rover.
    My photos

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