Bedding in brakes

2»

Comments

  • Dirtydog11
    Dirtydog11 Posts: 1,621
    http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content ... le.html/06)%20Brake%20Burn%20In.pdf

    Oh aleady posted, what happened to the delete facility?
    Kinesis Maxlight XC

    Orange 5 AM Custom
  • Rushmore
    Rushmore Posts: 674
    Correct me if I'm wrong... But isn't bedding in just a term used for the time it takes the brake pad to "fit" the rotor?

    So basically... Just go out and ride the damn thing....
    Always remember.... Wherever you go, there you are.

    Ghost AMR 7500 2012
    De Rosa R838
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    No, read the Shimano doc again, its also about depositing a thin (microns thick) layer of pad material onto the disc, the actual braking is do predominantly pad material to pad material. I once had a removed car brake disc start to rust, that wafer thin layer lifted off complete, mind you I was running wacky pads on it.

    Go outdoors webpage linked to above has now been mysteriously corrected!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    Rushmore wrote:
    Correct me if I'm wrong... But isn't bedding in just a term used for the time it takes the brake pad to "fit" the rotor?

    So basically... Just go out and ride the damn thing....
    yes, and yes. Depositing pad material or not, just use the damned things!
    My photos
  • felix.london
    felix.london Posts: 4,067
    YeehaaMcgee wrote:
    Rushmore wrote:
    Correct me if I'm wrong... But isn't bedding in just a term used for the time it takes the brake pad to "fit" the rotor?

    So basically... Just go out and ride the damn thing....
    yes, and yes. Depositing pad material or not, just use the damned things!


    I honestly think there's people on here that prefer the obsessive cleaning & ridiculous brake-pad-bedding-in techniques etc than actually just going "out and ride the damn thing"
    "Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes

    Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build

    Trek Session 8
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    YeehaaMcgee wrote:
    Rushmore wrote:
    Correct me if I'm wrong... But isn't bedding in just a term used for the time it takes the brake pad to "fit" the rotor?

    So basically... Just go out and ride the damn thing....
    yes, and yes. Depositing pad material or not, just use the damned things!
    No and yes maybe...not yes and yes.....

    I don't subscribe to any silly bedding in process but it's NOT just wearing the pad to fit the disc.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • bennett_346
    bennett_346 Posts: 5,029
    The Beginner wrote:
    YeehaaMcgee wrote:
    Rushmore wrote:
    Correct me if I'm wrong... But isn't bedding in just a term used for the time it takes the brake pad to "fit" the rotor?

    So basically... Just go out and ride the damn thing....
    yes, and yes. Depositing pad material or not, just use the damned things!
    No and yes maybe...not yes and yes.....

    I don't subscribe to any silly bedding in process but it's NOT just wearing the pad to fit the disc.
    Go on then.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    It's detailed in that shimano doc and what I said underneath if you care to read the thread (clearly not again!)
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • subwoofer
    subwoofer Posts: 17
    The Shimano advice seems fine, but I am not sure I agree about the last comment about ruining the disc if ridden hard before bedding in.

    Having a Master's Degree in Engineering and a particular interest in material science, I am sceptical about being able to cause damage from using them. Bedding in can happen quickly or slowly and if you use the brakes before they are bedded in, you will bed them in. The bedding in technique is to accelerate and brake to a stop 20 times.....so in fact use the brakes.

    What this bedding in technique says to me is that after approximately 20 stops your brakes will start to perform at their best, and before this the performance may not be quite as good. So basically go out and ride!

    New tyres can be slightly slippery due to mould release agents still being on the tyres, so again after riding a few miles, the tyres will start to perform at their best a far as grip goes.

    Disc brakes are so much better than the older types, even at their worst they are still better than cantilever or v-brakes.

    Isn't the only lesson that is needed here to be aware that with new discs and pads the braking performance will not be as good until you have used them a little. If you go off doing extreme downhill riding on brand new discs and pads then more fool you.
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Do love this place. That's 2 threads that have gone around in circles, and ended up in a conclusion very similar to my first response each time.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    subwoofer wrote:
    The Shimano advice seems fine, but I am not sure I agree about the last comment about ruining the disc if ridden hard before bedding in.

    Having a Master's Degree in Engineering and a particular interest in material science, I am sceptical about being able to cause damage from using them. Bedding in can happen quickly or slowly and if you use the brakes before they are bedded in, you will bed them in. The bedding in technique is to accelerate and brake to a stop 20 times.....so in fact use the brakes.
    I asked the brakes guys here at work, the point they made in relation to cars brakes is that getting them too hot before the layer is deposited on the discs can glaze the pads and also get the very surface layer of the disc too hot such that it can change its chrystaline structure (the layer of pad material insulates the surface) permanently, as organic pads are pretty similar between cars and bikes I suspect this may carry over.

    The point of bedding in is 'sensible braking' levels (not the over agressive ones suggested) and while 'get on and ride' will probably (in 99.90% of cases) achieve this, it is not guarenteed (Downhillers for example!).
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Downhillers were mentioned as the caveat. Jeez
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    AND I DIDN'T SAY YOU WERE WRONG - Jeez!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.

Categories