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Bleedin' Brakes!

freebsfreebs Posts: 199
edited September 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
I'm just about to bleed my brakes for the first time. Should I replace the pads before or after I have bled them? Many thanks!

Posts

  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    why would you do that?

    you should not have any pads in the caliper when bleeding.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • felix.londonfelix.london Posts: 4,067
    Do your pads need replacing?

    And yeah what he says ^^ - if there's any chance of any oil going on them ever get them very far away or else you will need to replace them
    "Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes

    Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build

    Trek Session 8
  • freebsfreebs Posts: 199
    Thank-you both. If I'm taking them out anyway I'll check how worn the pads are!
  • cooldadcooldad Posts: 32,599
    Reading between the lines, it sounds as if you haven't replaced the pads before (or at least checked them). Why do you think you need to bleed them - it's normally a last resort and doesn't need doing lot of the time people feel the need to do it.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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  • freebsfreebs Posts: 199
    I can pull the levers all the way to the bars and they don't spring back. V spongy. I've no experience of discs But they have got progressively 'spongier' if that makes sense.
  • lpretro1lpretro1 Posts: 237
    Sounds like just normal pad wear to me? If you squeeze the lever several times does it become firmer or not? If it does then yes prob needs bleeding - otherwise replace pads and it should be ok. If lever is coming back to bars then sounds like the pads are very worn - so pop a new pair in first before resorting to a bleed.
  • freebsfreebs Posts: 199
    Thank-you. I'll try replacing the pads first.
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    freebs wrote:
    Thank-you. I'll try replacing the pads first.
    why do they need it?

    1 have a look at the pads/pistons as you pull the lever. what happens?

    have a look at the pads and measure them, as per the manual, are they in tolerance?
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • freebsfreebs Posts: 199
    My brakes pull in to the bars. They don't work particularly well although they have in the past. I have a bleeding kit and two sets of new pads. As you may have guessed I have never serviced hydraulic brakes before and was just after a bit of advice! The pads/pistons pinch on the discs. I think the advice is to check the pads/pistons and if this doesn't work then bleed?
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,803
    You need to find out why the lever travel is long, are the pads backing off the disc (so having to move a long way before touching) if not they may well need bleading. Is the amount of pad material remaing greater than the minimum recommended by the manufacturer.

    None of this is rocket science, you just need to figure out what is happening.
    Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
  • freebsfreebs Posts: 199
    I know! Just thought I would ask the experts for a bit of advice! Thank-you all.
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    freebs wrote:
    I know! Just thought I would ask the experts for a bit of advice! Thank-you all.
    call out charge is about £1000 and £100 an hour.

    you have to do something. like download the manual and read it.

    or tell us what your brakes are and someone will read it for you.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • freebsfreebs Posts: 199
    Sorry to waste everyone's time. I'll work it out.
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