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XTR rear mech micro adjuster?

markymark113markymark113 Posts: 14
edited August 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
I have just upgraded to an XTR rear mech after wrecking my XT one.
I was suprised that they dont have a micro adjuster on the cable stop any more.
Does anyone know of an after market adjuster that can be fitted to the mech?

Cheers
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Posts

  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    what is wrong with the one on the shifter?
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • markymark113markymark113 Posts: 14
    When setting up on a workshop stand its less of a problem , though I find the shifter adjuster stiff and quite crowded from controls , however whilst out off road yesterday with the bike turned upside down on bars/saddle and turning chainset it was an absolute pain in the backside. My old XT mech had a very good adjuster and was a doddle to fine tune.
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    and shimano have deemed that you only need one and there is as yet nothing that you can add other than an inline adjuster like can be found on road bikes.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • markymark113markymark113 Posts: 14
    The old adage "if it aint broke don't fix it" springs to mind , I guess its Cheaper for Shimano to produce without an adjuster , perhaps the latest shifters are fitted with better adjusters to compensate.
  • njee20njee20 Posts: 9,613
    All shifters have always been fitted with barrel adjusters, there's nothing wrong with the quality, you just don't need 2!
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,802
    The XTR is the lightweight version, an adjuster adds weight, so why fit it? (Given how much is spent elsewhere on it to save weight, this weight saving is actually a cost saving as well)

    Once set up, shouldn't need doing again, just use the shifter based one, besides which no need to even stop peddling to adjust it!

    Not all NJee, you're too young, the old 7 speed thumbs off my retro have no adjuster on the shifter just on the mech - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 1044613790
    Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
  • njee20njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Well yes ok, I must admit I did think back to some old STX ones that didn't, you can put the word 'current' in if you prefer!

    It's not to do with XTR, none of the Shadow rear mechs, nor any SRAM have barrel adjusters on the mech, they're superfluous.

    As Nick said you can fit an inline barrel adjuster to the rear loop of cable if you really want. They look censored .
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    njee20 wrote:
    As Nick said you can fit an inline barrel adjuster to the rear loop of cable if you really want. They look censored .
    and add a point for the said censored to get in.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Chunkers1980Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    What would be useful would, instead of the barrel, is to have a slot so you can take the cable off and then the mech without having to replace the cable end cap each time.
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    Chunkers1980 wrote:
    What would be useful would, instead of the barrel, is to have a slot so you can take the cable off and then the mech without having to replace the cable end cap each time.
    dont see that at all.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Chunkers1980Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Perhaps it is me, but there is no way with end cap fitted that you can separate the shifter from the mech. A slot would allow you to do this.
  • njee20njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Why would you want to?

    If I'm going to the effort of removing the mech etc I'll stick a new cable in.
  • benpinnickbenpinnick Posts: 4,148
    Chunkers1980 wrote:
    Perhaps it is me, but there is no way with end cap fitted that you can separate the shifter from the mech. A slot would allow you to do this.

    It would also weigh less ;)
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,802
    So use a hacksaw and make your own slot.......if your that keen!

    No warranty is implied or given by this post, hacksaw is a generic term for anything designed to safely cut soft metal, teeth not recommended.
    Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
  • Chunkers1980Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    No f'in way. I'll live with it on my £120 mech.

    I've seen slotted barrels, but they are useless in the fact they screw into a hole with no slot. But as there is no barrel on the mech, a slot shouldn't make it any more unstable if done right.
  • the_moodsterthe_moodster Posts: 273
    Why are you taking the mech off so much that a slot would be a benefit? Fit it, forget it, ride it!
    Ibis Mojo SL
    On One 456c
  • Chunkers1980Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    You only need to take it off once for it to be of benefit.
  • njee20njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Why would you take it off at all? If you're swapping frames or whatever surely you don't reuse cables?
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    Chunkers1980 wrote:
    You only need to take it off once for it to be of benefit.
    just giving the cable a chance to come out.

    Pointless.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • YeehaaMcgeeYeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    I remember frames with slots in the cable mounts, and it just occurred to me that I can take the mech off my Marin wolfridge frame without releasing the cable (I stripped the bike down recently to replace the suspension linkages and remembered that I just wrapped the mech and cable around the bars).
    As I thunk some more, I realised that the MArin didn't have slotted stops, instead, it has continuous outers.

    So, there's the solution if you ever want to take off you mech (why?) - continuous outers.
    My photos
  • Chunkers1980Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    njee20 wrote:
    Why would you take it off at all? If you're swapping frames or whatever surely you don't reuse cables?

    To clean, I find it much easier to do jockeys with it off, but tend not to detach the cable.

    And something with a point, is not pointless.
  • YeehaaMcgeeYeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    I still don't understand. You realise that you can remove jockey wheels from the mech, with it still in situ?
    My photos
  • Chunkers1980Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Of course. Getting them on the correct way and with the caps on ect. is much easier in hand
  • njee20njee20 Posts: 9,613
    But it's easier to prod brushes etc into the mech if you're not holding it shirley?
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    njee20 wrote:
    But it's easier to prod brushes etc into the mech if you're not holding it shirley?
    way easier.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Chunkers1980Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    We're going to have to agree to disagree here.

    We don't have a shirley in our IT department, if we did, I'll agree on that, it would be easier not to hold him.
  • YeehaaMcgeeYeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    Chunkers1980 wrote:
    We're going to have to agree to disagree here.
    I'm all in favour of free thinking, but if you're doing something one way, and the rest of the world is doing it another, you have to wonder who's actually got it right.
    My photos
  • Chunkers1980Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    All I'll say is I bet the rest of the World's mechs are not properly clean, as getting it done properly is only achievable with it totally off. Bet you have strands of hair wrapped around your jockey bolts/axels.
  • njee20njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Err, I rarely ride through hair... I do clean my jockeys off, but I do it with the mech in situ!
  • YeehaaMcgeeYeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    When my jockey wheels are totally gunked, I just turn the pedals backwards, whilst pushing the gunk out with a flat screwdriver. As long as the bike rides, I really don't care what state the jockey wheels are in.
    My photos
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