Controlling descents

paulus69

Most of the long descents on my regular routes are either short or have a long run off to slowly scrub off speed. However went a different route yesterday with a long descent, strava claims its 3 miles down and around -8% gradient. There are also several turns as you approach the bottom that turn back on themselves and thus have to be taken much slower.

I was happy rolling at a bit of speed, but started trying to scrub off the speed as I approached 30mph however my brakes became noticeable less effective (even starting to smell funny) and had to stop and wait for them to cool off a couple of times.

The obvious answer is to man up and ride down full pelt, but I was worried I would get to such a speed and be unable to scrub off the speed at the bottom.

Any tips?

Mikey41

I feel this is all about knowing the road before trying to go down too fast. Just like brakes on cars, if you get bike brakes too hot they don't work as well, same rules apply. If it's a long steep descent and you know there are turns that you need to slow right down for, it's worth controling the speed right from the top and don't let it build up. The faster you go, the more energy goes into the brakes to slow you back down and they will overheat much faster than if you kept the speed lower.

You could also try alternating the use of the front and rear brake so that both don't heat up at the same time, though if the road is slippery or wet, you are gonna need to be very careful.

sungod

if you don't know the road, or if you do know it and there're corners or hazards, then take things carefully

don't drag the brakes, it's much better to brake hard for short periods then release, speed up, brake again, etc., even releasing for just 1-2 seconds gives the rims and pads a chance to cool a bit

as above alternating front/rear will help too

getting your weight distribution correct is important on fast descents, move back on the saddle so that you get more weight on the rear wheel, this allows harder braking on the front without lifting the rear and also increases traction for braking with the rear

get to know how your brakes behave, in the wet they'll be very different, then it helps to just lightly skim the pads on the rim well before the point you'll be braking, this will clear water and make the brakes much more effective when applied

oldwelshman

Mikey41 wrote:

I feel this is all about knowing the road before trying to go down too fast. Just like brakes on cars, if you get bike brakes too hot they don't work as well, same rules apply. If it's a long steep descent and you know there are turns that you need to slow right down for, it's worth controling the speed right from the top and don't let it build up. The faster you go, the more energy goes into the brakes to slow you back down and they will overheat much faster than if you kept the speed lower.

You could also try alternating the use of the front and rear brake so that both don't heat up at the same time, though if the road is slippery or wet, you are gonna need to be very careful.

I dont think alternating brake use is best idea. using front only can make you fall easily if on a dampish road or on white lines and rear only can cause you to skid back wheel.
Much better to brake evenly before bends and ride through bend off brakes.

thecrofter

sungod wrote:

don't drag the brakes, it's much better to brake hard for short periods then release, speed up, brake again, etc., even releasing for just 1-2 seconds gives the rims and pads a chance to cool a bit

This

Mikey41

oldwelshman wrote:

I dont think alternating brake use is best idea. using front only can make you fall easily if on a dampish road or on white lines and rear only can cause you to skid back wheel.
Much better to brake evenly before bends and ride through bend off brakes.

That's why I said to be very careful doing this on a damp/wet road. However, if you keep the speed under control properly, you should not have a situation where you will be braking hard enough to lock a wheel. On a dry road there should be no problem doing it at all.

dennisn

Sitting more upright than tucked will slow you down a bit.

simon_masterson

As others have said, dragging the brakes isn't a good idea. This is one reason why downhill cyclists will use disc brakes and tandems often have a coaster brake.

I haven't seen the hill in question, but you should be able to brake hard on your front brake and reduce speed significantly if not stop completely, very rapidly.

mamba80

i agree with Welshman here - i think alternating frt and rear is just asking for trouble, its very easy to lock a rear wheel wet or dry.
What SunGod says here is the best advice

paulus69

Cheers for the advice, I think a combination of your advice and a drogue parachute to slow me down!

MattyyP

Start riding the road with discs I say!! Lol!

Pross

Feather the brakes, weight further back and get more upright to catch more air - basically the opposites of what you do when trying to get more aero and go faster! Most importantly plan ahead, you should be at the necessary speed to take the bends rather than grabbing the brakes in a panic as you go around them. Also, work on your cornering as you'll be surprised how quickly you can safely take bends if you have good cornering technique (but better safe than sorry on roads you don't know).

cougie

Is there any need to brake to keep it below 30 ?
I'd just brake as you need to for the bends.

dennisn

cougie wrote:

Is there any need to brake to keep it below 30 ?
I'd just brake as you need to for the bends.

While I agree to a point, you must remember that this is the beginners column. As I recall, years ago, there was something called "fear factor" in beginners high speed descents. Takes a bit of getting used to, as I recall.

Pross

paulus69 wrote:

Most of the long descents on my regular routes are either short or have a long run off to slowly scrub off speed. However went a different route yesterday with a long descent, strava claims its 3 miles down and around -8% gradient. There are also several turns as you approach the bottom that turn back on themselves and thus have to be taken much slower.

I see you are based in Torfaen, was this coming down from the Keepers Pond (above Blaenavon)towards Govilon? If so, it is a great descent to let the bike go for most of the ride down (keeping an eye out for sheep at the top and take your weight slightly off the saddle for the cattle grid) with the fastest average on Strava being 36mph. Other than that the only limiting factor is nerve and any speed wobble. As you approach the Fiddlers Elbow at the bottom start braking using the advice above, probably around the point where the trees on the left side of the road end

springtide9

Don't push on the hills unless you are really comfortable with the speed and know the roads well. You shouldn't be riding well within your comfort zone.
It's not big or clever having an off at 30mph when only protected with Lycra and a foam lid :roll:

charliew87

Hammer it. If you've got your Strava running then you'll know exactly how fast you were going when you hit the sign/tree/car and if it's 40mph then thats really cool.

Bit like me, had a massive crash and broke my arm skiing last year, but due to having a gps app on my phone, I at least know that I was going at 63mph when i hit a rock. (True story)

Only joking. Get to know the road and take corners at increasingly quicker paces as you feel more comfortable over time. Don't get out of control at the top.

smidsy

Same as braking on any two wheeled item really - to be safe make sure to do all the braking upright and let off the brake when turning. This will greatly reduce the chance of losing the front and washing out. Also braking in hard efforts and letting off in between in better than draging the brake for prolonged periods as this helps to keep the pads and rim cool, which maintains optimum braking effeciency.

Look well ahead and look where you want to go, not at the thing you want to miss as you go where you look....(honest it works).

Move to the outside of bends (where safe/you can see) and sweep from outside to inside of the corner as you run through it - just like motorcycle racers do.

Down in the drops will give you the most control and will also give you full access to the brake levers for better stopping power.

Apply these techniques and gradually you will become more confident and be able to increase your descent speeds.