Cleaning Di2

baldwin471

Same as mechanical? Don't really want to be hosing down electrical parts :roll:

CiB

Same as mechanical - remove chain ideally, then wipe surfaces, get cleaning cloth into obscure corners etc. You can go the whole hog and strip the jockey wheels on the rear mech for cleaning - make a note of which is which etc.

The only real difference is that they contain motors in place of springs. Clean what you can see plus the crevices and you should be ok. One tip I have is that if you try to clean the frame and specifically the chain-stays by wrapping a cloth round it and polishing with a vigorous up down action, take the wires off first. They snap very easily and cost way more than they're worth to replace.

And finally, when I did mine the first time I had the front rings off as well; when I refittted them the front mech didn't change properly so I had to adjust the limit stops a bit to get it back into line, then re-index the whole set - that part is a doddle and a bit of fun too. Still not sure why it needed it as nothing changed (in theory).

Edit to add that if yours has a junction box for all the cables on the underside of the down tube it's worth unplugging the leads and giving that area a good clean with a toothbrush or similar. It also helps if you have the correct Special Tool (cheapo plastic jobby really) to remove and replace the plugs. Don't pull them out by the wire, grip the plug body.

baldwin471

CiB wrote:

Same as mechanical - remove chain ideally, then wipe surfaces, get cleaning cloth into obscure corners etc. You can go the whole hog and strip the jockey wheels on the rear mech for cleaning - make a note of which is which etc.

The only real difference is that they contain motors in place of springs. Clean what you can see plus the crevices and you should be ok. One tip I have is that if you try to clean the frame and specifically the chain-stays by wrapping a cloth round it and polishing with a vigorous up down action, take the wires off first. They snap very easily and cost way more than they're worth to replace.

And finally, when I did mine the first time I had the front rings off as well; when I refittted them the front mech didn't change properly so I had to adjust the limit stops a bit to get it back into line, then re-index the whole set - that part is a doddle and a bit of fun too. Still not sure why it needed it as nothing changed (in theory).

Edit to add that if yours has a junction box for all the cables on the underside of the down tube it's worth unplugging the leads and giving that area a good clean with a toothbrush or similar. It also helps if you have the correct Special Tool (cheapo plastic jobby really) to remove and replace the plugs. Don't pull them out by the wire, grip the plug body.

Nice one

Peddle Up!

This thread has a touch of "how do I clean bird poo off my new Aston Martin" about it.


Groupset envy setting in.

Gizmodo

I thought people who could afford Di2 could afford to have a man in to see to it?

ALaPlage

Gizmodo wrote:

I thought people who could afford Di2 could afford to have a man in to see to it?

Sadly the remortgage to afford the Di2 means all maintenance is DIY

One additional point as part of the cleaning process is Shimano recommend you apply their protective grease to the battery contacts area to prevent water ingress and subsequent risk of corrosion.

cougie

If you're afraid to hose it down - what would you do if it rained when you were out ?

SpermWizard3000

cougie wrote:

If you're afraid to hose it down - what would you do if it rained when you were out ?

+1

CiB

There's no way my domestic staff are getting their grubby paws on my Di2. Can you imagine allowing the lower orders access to such things? Never.

OP didn't say he was afraid of getting them wet, he'd rather not hose them down. They are pretty waterproof though - mine have survived a few good downpours and standing water but I don't think I'd ride them through a flood.

Anyway. Posting to say thanks for the grease tip. Never knew that. Cheers.

rolf_f

I thought Di2 came with it's own dedicated Shimano technician to look after it.

baldwin471

Rolf F wrote:

I thought Di2 came with it's own dedicated Shimano technician to look after it.

Would be brilliant, but alas, tis not the case. Cheers for the tips guys.

kayakerchris

Just hose it down same as mechanical. Make sure you leave the battery in place and clipped in properly. I do not have a powerwash but hose it down as normal if it is dirty. people are using it on cross bikes, mountain bikes, everything and it copes. I would never pull the wires out except to renew them. They clip in with a special tool and are quite clearly a first time is best time type seal. Just turn the bike upside down and clean the area with a brush.

CiB

The special tool is nothing more than a plastic spatula that allows the connector to be removed without accidentally gripping the wire, and makes insertion easier by providing a handle to push it in squarely & evenly. Not sure about first time is best either. The connector is a firm plastic moulding with a snug fit that just fits.

desweller

Rolf F wrote:

I thought Di2 came with it's own dedicated Shimano technician to look after it.

You can phone Shimano and they can tell you what's wrong with it thanks to the onboard satellite modem.