X0 2x10 conversion to 1x10

Anonymous
Anonymous Posts: 79,667
edited August 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
Got X0 2x10 cranks currently with an X-Guide and on the verge now of going 1x10 same as I've got on the hard tail (a DIY job 3x9 triple converted to 1x10), as the front mech like all front mechs is doing my head in, 1x10 is much simpler and I get just about all the range I need from 1x10 anyway with a 34t front 11-36t back.

Any tips and advice on converting the X0 2x10? I believe the BCD is different to the regular x9 stuff? Any issues with fitting a single ring on the spider or things/kits I can get to convert it. Or simply have a single on the big ring and no granny (or ignore the granny, but need a proper single anyway to help avoid it derailing), or a bash on the big and single on the small, though guess there may be chance of the single hitting the chain stay if it's fairly big (34t probably, and this is on a Nomad).

Chain line might be an issue as with 3x converted the middle for a single is fine, but 2x neither is really centre chain line I'd have thought. But then in 2x10 you can sit in the big ring all the time on all rear cogs without issue.

Also the X-Guide is a double with two cogs. What can I do with that? I could see it may just run in one cog and forget the other. Looks like the cog 'cage' could just be replaced if there is such a replacement or DIY job. Though with the cost of the thing maybe it's just worth flogging the whole thing and get something else.

Thoughts?

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    have fun finding a suitable ring first then worry about the rest.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Homebrewed do them, but apparently service can be a bit lax.

    I've got an 88mm BCD ring (for XTR M985s) from this guy, a ti chainring was about €40 IIRC, has lasted fantastically, looks good etc. I'd drop him an email.

    FWIW on my XTR double I run the ring in the outer ring position, and it's fine. I'd suggest you'll not have that luxury unless you get a big chainring as it won't fit on the 120mm BCD.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Hmm, maybe not so simple then. For now I'll try getting the 2x to run smooth. Just front mech cabling needs overhaul and I'm finding just a slight bit of wear in the chain makes it slack enough to keep dropping to the granny even with the guide in place. Replacing chain now as old was due a change. Might try one less link than normally advised and hope the rear mech will cope. Given the 1x10 works nice on the hard tail I was just thinking I'd save myself a lot of hassle and bin the front mech. Better space on the bars for fitting reverb lever too :)
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    It's not not simple, there's 2 people there who make chainrings, one with an online shop, it's just they're not SRAM/MRP etc and you'll have to sort the front mech in the short term if you want to keep riding the bike!

    MRP do do direct mount rings if you remove the spider - LBS may well have a tool, deals with chainline issues too, and looks better.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    as above it is not hard to do. the issue is the availability and cost of suitable rings.

    once you have done taken the plunge and splashed the cash the rest is simples.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Aluminium HBC ring is $40, like I say I paid c€40 for a ti one from EP. An MRP Bling Ring (which is what I'd get) is £60, and in stock in various places, so only slightly more than an X.0 chainring.

    Not unreasonable really!
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    I take it this is no good for X0 - http://www.sram.com/truvativ/products/s ... ersion-kit

    32t anyway, would rather 34 or maybe 36
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Nope, that's a 104mm BCD, which is standard double. Yours is 80/120mm.

    I run 36t (with 11-36 block) and we obviously ride similar places.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Yeah, it's a balance between 34 and 36 for me. The 456 runs nice with the 34 giving me enough climbing ability that I don't miss the granny. 36 would lose slightly there but give more top end.

    Maybe I'll just wait to see if I can pick up the X0 DH 1x10 cranks cheap somewhere and/or swap the 2x10. They're a bit scratched up to get good money for them. Or just get something else. Just it won't match the rest of the X0 then :D (mind you the DH one comes with red logo and that doesn't match the gold stuff! Can't have that :D).
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Why not just get the MRP Bling Ring? Does a similar job.

    The only place I tend to use 36/11 is on the road to the trails, I'd be inclined to stick with the 34 unless you ride on the road a fair bit.
  • pilch
    pilch Posts: 1,136
    Got a middleburn RS8 34 t hardcoat crankset which came off my racebike, that would be bang on, I had it 1x10 with a X0 rear mech, may sell if you are interested, very light use too...
    A berm? were you expecting one?

    29er race

    29er bouncer