Skewers

styxd

Are deore skewers the right length for road frames/hubs?

As Ugo said above, they work fine. Ive used them on a few bikes.

itsnotarace

Had plenty of ultra light weight skewers including 43g KCNC Ti, 44g Planet X and I've never had problems with wheels coming loose. If you do, you're doing it wrong.

True - the cam action on Shimano skewers is better, and I guess if I were on a light weight bike pro peleton bike needing to add weight to get within the UCI 6.8kg lower limit I may run them.

FSR_XC

I've used these for the past year or so with no issues.

I got skewers with my new wheels, but opted to keep using these as they are very light and have worked just as well as any others I have used in the past.

spasypaddy

FSR_XC wrote:

I've used these for the past year or so with no issues.

I got skewers with my new wheels, but opted to keep using these as they are very light and have worked just as well as any others I have used in the past.

im going with those, if they turn up and dont fill me with confidence i'll get some Dura Ace.

styxd

You can get the same thing off ebay for cheaper though.

spasypaddy

i need them for next week.

gabriel959

Planet X sell the same skewers for £19.99?

spasypaddy

i despise planet x. one id rather spend more than give them money. two i refuse to have their name on anything on either of my two main bikes.

MattC59

I've got these: http://www.spincycleworks.com/servlet/the-9/lightweight-QR-quick-release/Detail Last year, Cycling plus said: "...the best quick release cams out there",.... I'd have to agree. They've got a great lever shape, excellent cam profile and the finish is excellent too. They're not the lightest out there, but they work.

andrew_s

Ugo is quite correct that the Campag and Shimano QRs grip the dropout better than any of the others.

For most bikes there isn't much more than the wheel weight trying to overcome the QR grip, and just about any QR is OK - just pick one according to cost, weight and desire for bling.

The exceptions are for
a) bikes with non-vertical rear dropouts
b) bikes with front disc brakes in the standard location on the left fork blade.

In both of these cases the force trying to overcome the QR grip can exceed your bodyweight, and you need as much grip as possible.
A QR slipping in a horizontal rear dropout will pull the wheel over until stopped by the tyre meeting the LH chainstay, and is doesn't take long for a dirty tyre to go through the paint.
A QR slipping in a front disc dropout will loosen until it will go over the lawyer lips, at which point the wheel comes out and you do a face plant.

ajb72

andrew_s wrote:

Ugo is quite correct that the Campag and Shimano QRs grip the dropout better than any of the others.

For most bikes there isn't much more than the wheel weight trying to overcome the QR grip, and just about any QR is OK - just pick one according to cost, weight and desire for bling.

The exceptions are for
a) bikes with non-vertical rear dropouts
b) bikes with front disc brakes in the standard location on the left fork blade.

In both of these cases the force trying to overcome the QR grip can exceed your bodyweight, and you need as much grip as possible.
A QR slipping in a horizontal rear dropout will pull the wheel over until stopped by the tyre meeting the LH chainstay, and is doesn't take long for a dirty tyre to go through the paint.
A QR slipping in a front disc dropout will loosen until it will go over the lawyer lips, at which point the wheel comes out and you do a face plant.

Spot on there. I had a set of the Planet X Ti Sticks and exactly that happened to me. Hit a huge pothole and the rear wheel slipped, forcing the rear wheel against the inner chain stay on my old Colnago Evo. I was stuck on a very busy A road at the time and by the time I pulled off to a side road the paint was worn down to the carbon. I now use the Fulcrum QR's and will never put low weight before a proper hold again.

spasypaddy

a friend who is a very good mechanic and very trusted also uses the superstars one.

mercia_man

My advice is to take heed of people like ugo and sheldon brown who have experience and know what they're talking about. External cam skewers are an inferior design and cheap to produce - but often come with a premium price tag for people blinded by bling. When I'm descending an Alpine pass, I want the reassurance that my wheels will not come loose. Only Shimano or Campag/Fulcrum internal cam, all metal skewers will do up tightly enough to prevent that risk. The weight savings of external cam skewers are miniscule and that's down to replacing a strong, enclosed metal cam with a flimsy nylon/plastic one that's open to the elements.

APIII

You're probably right in it being a bland topic. I'm sure very few ever have problems with QR's. I've only ever had to buy one set before (zipps) and I'll admit I like them, despite being "junk". The only pair I've had come loose are Fulcrums, but whose to say that wasn't error on my part? Campagnolo and Mavic have been fault free in addition.

rolf_f

APIII wrote:

The only pair I've had come loose are Fulcrums, but whose to say that wasn't error on my part? Campagnolo and Mavic have been fault free in addition.

But were they internal or external cam? One of my pairs of Campag Khamsin wheels came with external cam skewers, the other with internal cams. I daresay the same variety applies with the Fulcrum skewers.

Wirral_paul

Tune AC 14 skewers seem to be pretty well thought of also. They are eccentric cam - like the Campag and Shimano ones. Anyone used them as I want to replace the ones that came with my carbon wheels.

http://www.poshbikes.com/product.php?id=11

Cheers