advice on Pedals/Cleats

Ni4ll

I recently bought a pair of Shimano R064 SPD SL Road Shoes mainly because compared to others they were fairly cheap.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=69973
and I'm looking to buy some clipless pedals and cleats. Since this is my first time looking at clipless pedals I'm extremely confused on what cleats/pedals I can buy to go with these shoes.

I am thinking of getting some Shimano M520 Clipless SPD Pedals
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=3759
And was wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of cleats that could work with these, or with another pedal + cleat option, though i only have a budget of around £25-£35 for the pedals as I'm only a student at uni

simon_masterson

There are two Shimano cleat styles: 2-bolt and 3-bolt (SPD and SPD-SL respectively).

2-bolt is usually designated as 'MTB' or 'Touring', as the cleats can be recessed to allow for easier walking. Likewise, 3-bolt cleats are designed for road cycling; the cleat surface is larger to enable greater power transfer, and a non-recessed cleat enables a less bulky sole that is stiffer and lighter.

The pedals you mention are SPD. You CAN use SPD cleats with 'road' shoes, but you have to buy adaptors, and they won't be recessed if you do. The Shimano R540 is the cheapest SPD-SL pedal.

snoopsmydogg

May be wrong but most pedals come with the cleats otherwise you are wanting shimano sh-51 or sh-56 iirc

snoopsmydogg

Simon Masterson wrote:

There are two Shimano cleat styles: 2-bolt and 3-bolt (SPD and SPD-SL respectively).

2-bolt is usually designated as 'MTB' or 'Touring', as the cleats can be recessed to allow for easier walking. Likewise, 3-bolt cleats are designed for road cycling; the cleat surface is larger to enable greater power transfer, and a non-recessed cleat enables a less bulky sole that is stiffer and lighter.

The pedals you mention are SPD. You CAN use SPD cleats with 'road' shoes, but you have to buy adaptors, and they won't be recessed if you do. The Shimano R540 is the cheapest SPD-SL pedal.

You dont need adaptors for the shoes the op linked to they have the holes in the soles pre cut for both types of cleat

simon_masterson

snoopsmydogg wrote:

Simon Masterson wrote:

There are two Shimano cleat styles: 2-bolt and 3-bolt (SPD and SPD-SL respectively).

2-bolt is usually designated as 'MTB' or 'Touring', as the cleats can be recessed to allow for easier walking. Likewise, 3-bolt cleats are designed for road cycling; the cleat surface is larger to enable greater power transfer, and a non-recessed cleat enables a less bulky sole that is stiffer and lighter.

The pedals you mention are SPD. You CAN use SPD cleats with 'road' shoes, but you have to buy adaptors, and they won't be recessed if you do. The Shimano R540 is the cheapest SPD-SL pedal.

You dont need adaptors for the shoes the op linked to they have the holes in the soles pre cut for both types of cleat

The soles may be drilled, but so the site says you still need the adaptor to attach the cleat.

slowbike

Simon Masterson wrote:

the cleat surface is larger to enable greater power transfer, and a non-recessed cleat enables a less bulky sole that is stiffer and lighter.

Larger surface = greater power transfer?! Bowlocks! It Helps spread the pressure over a larger surface area so you're less likely to suffer hotspots on your feet.
Less bulky doesn't equal stiffer - the shoes may be made that way - but that's because the MTV and touring shoes are made with walking in mind - where you need flexibility in the toes.

I have spds on my roadie - good shimano shoes with the recessed cleats - no hotspot probs even after 80 miles.
However - op - now you have your shoes youll be best to get whatever pedals and cleats they're primarily designed for - the spd sl's sound right - why not take the shoes into a lbs to be sure?

simon_masterson

Slowbike wrote:

Simon Masterson wrote:

the cleat surface is larger to enable greater power transfer, and a non-recessed cleat enables a less bulky sole that is stiffer and lighter.

Larger surface = greater power transfer?! Bowlocks! It Helps spread the pressure over a larger surface area so you're less likely to suffer hotspots on your feet.

Well, it's frequently proffered as a reason, so I decided to state it here.

Slowbike wrote:

Less bulky doesn't equal stiffer - the shoes may be made that way - but that's because the MTV and touring shoes are made with walking in mind - where you need flexibility in the toes.

Indeed; it simply makes them lighter and... less bulky feeling. I just didn't specify that detail.

slowbike

Simon Masterson wrote:

Slowbike wrote:

Simon Masterson wrote:

the cleat surface is larger to enable greater power transfer, and a non-recessed cleat enables a less bulky sole that is stiffer and lighter.

Larger surface = greater power transfer?! Bowlocks! It Helps spread the pressure over a larger surface area so you're less likely to suffer hotspots on your feet.

Well, it's frequently proffered as a reason, so I decided to state it here.

all we like sheep .....
Question everything - that way you understand why rather than "it just is"

mkviken

i lost 3 bolts from my SPD-SL shoes today - they were becoming really hard to un clip as they were rotating so much but i thought it was just as my legs were tired!

i nearly fell of a couple of times as they were so hard to unclip, eventually meaning i had to prop myself against a fence and take my shoes off leaving them on the bike!



i dont think the bolts and square washers are available sperate so will have to buy some new cleats.

the bolts were bloody tight too so next time i will try some loctite. they surely shouldnt come loose after 100 miles or so?

Gladiator

Shimano are sh*t. Buy some iClic 2's

simon_masterson

Slowbike wrote:

Simon Masterson wrote:

Slowbike wrote:

Simon Masterson wrote:

the cleat surface is larger to enable greater power transfer, and a non-recessed cleat enables a less bulky sole that is stiffer and lighter.

Larger surface = greater power transfer?! Bowlocks! It Helps spread the pressure over a larger surface area so you're less likely to suffer hotspots on your feet.

Well, it's frequently proffered as a reason, so I decided to state it here.

all we like sheep .....
Question everything - that way you understand why rather than "it just is"

*Shows the honourable gentleman to the coat stand that he might remove his smug hat*

I'd be happy to consider the possibility, to be honest. Given that all you've done is inform me that you are right to dismiss the claim without actually proffering any evidence to the contrary, I can't ascribe any credibility to your arguments at all. Why should I believe you?

I suspect that if there IS a greater level of power transfer with a wider contact area then it is negligible. I've no horse in this race since I use SPDs, but if the issue is to be debated then it can be debated properly.

slowbike

No smugness. You posted a statement as fact and i rebuked it.

Given there is no friction involved - just two slightly different methods of attachment - how do you suppose one enables a greater power transfer than the other?
The answer is that it doesnt - the larger cleat gives a larger area for the pressure to be applied across but that is all.

izzy Eviel

I have a question about these SPD SL pedals/shoes. I bought some the other day and have been trying to get used to them. I can get my right foot in and out no problem, but my left foot i can't get out. Is there anything I can do to make it easier?

snoopsmydogg

izzy Eviel wrote:

I have a question about these SPD SL pedals/shoes. I bought some the other day and have been trying to get used to them. I can get my right foot in and out no problem, but my left foot i can't get out. Is there anything I can do to make it easier?

some spd's have a screw at the back of the pedal that allow you to adjust the tension.

iampaulb

Ni4ll wrote:

I recently bought a pair of Shimano R064 SPD SL Road Shoes mainly because compared to others they were fairly cheap.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=69973
and I'm looking to buy some clipless pedals and cleats. Since this is my first time looking at clipless pedals I'm extremely confused on what cleats/pedals I can buy to go with these shoes.

I am thinking of getting some Shimano M520 Clipless SPD Pedals
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=3759
And was wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of cleats that could work with these, or with another pedal + cleat option, though i only have a budget of around £25-£35 for the pedals as I'm only a student at uni

i bought those pedals at the weekend, to put on a roadie for my first ever road ride. Being a downhiller i have been against clips. But with those pedals, being very to easy to get in and out of. I have been converted, i always had this horrible image of me clipped in falling down on my side in slow mo at the traffic lights. But this wasnt the case. I bought some XC shoes to go with so i have one set of shoes for road and DH.

I would get those pedals fo sho

simon_masterson

Slowbike wrote:

the larger cleat gives a larger area for the pressure to be applied across but that is all.

That's exactly what I'm referring to. I don't think it's any more lifechanging than any of the other things that new road cyclists feel that they must have in order to be considered to be 'real' road cyclists, but nevertheless it's a factor for their decision, and it doesn't have to cost more than other options; unlike the typical case of a beginner who has woefully underestimated the amount of other kit that they will need but wanting to buy a bike that's good enough to be too good for a beginner but not good enough to be an upgrade. Etc.

slowbike

Simon Masterson wrote:

Slowbike wrote:

the larger cleat gives a larger area for the pressure to be applied across but that is all.

That's exactly what I'm referring to. I don't think it's any more lifechanging than any of the other things that new road cyclists feel that they must have in order to be considered to be 'real' road cyclists, but nevertheless it's a factor for their decision, and it doesn't have to cost more than other options; unlike the typical case of a beginner who has woefully underestimated the amount of other kit that they will need but wanting to buy a bike that's good enough to be too good for a beginner but not good enough to be an upgrade. Etc.

Eh?

G.Green

Hi does anyone know why you would use a zero-float cleat? Do they make it easier unclipping?