Campagnolo Ergo Question
Hi All,
I recently bought some 2nd hand Ergo Levers (from BR forum!) They are 'old shape' carbon Chorus 10 speed (so presumably 2006 or earlier??)
I have now fitted them and this is what I find...
RH LEVER:
Upshift (large -> small sprockets) 1 click=1 sprocket
Downshift (small -> large sprockets) 1 click=anywhere from 1 to 3 sprockets
It is almost impossible to do 9 or 10 clicks to move one sprocket at a time all the way up the cassette. It invariably takes only 5 or 6, due to the multiple shifts.
LH LEVER
Works fine but when I have shifted to the small chainring, the lever still keeps on clicking. There doesn't seem to be an 'end' point. Is this normal? On my other Campag Ergos, once in the small chainring, depressing the shift button doesn't elicit a noise or a 'shift' as it were.
Any thoughts anyone..?
I recently bought some 2nd hand Ergo Levers (from BR forum!) They are 'old shape' carbon Chorus 10 speed (so presumably 2006 or earlier??)
I have now fitted them and this is what I find...
RH LEVER:
Upshift (large -> small sprockets) 1 click=1 sprocket
Downshift (small -> large sprockets) 1 click=anywhere from 1 to 3 sprockets
It is almost impossible to do 9 or 10 clicks to move one sprocket at a time all the way up the cassette. It invariably takes only 5 or 6, due to the multiple shifts.
LH LEVER
Works fine but when I have shifted to the small chainring, the lever still keeps on clicking. There doesn't seem to be an 'end' point. Is this normal? On my other Campag Ergos, once in the small chainring, depressing the shift button doesn't elicit a noise or a 'shift' as it were.
Any thoughts anyone..?
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Comments
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Sounds like problems with the internals. They can be rebuilt and spares are available. Check the campagnolo website for tech specs and part numbers.
I have a 2009 Centaur lever(RH) which developed similar problems. It appears there was a design fault with the barrel that holds the cable nipple and turns as you shift. Apparently it doesn't hold the nipple correctly and wears to allow the nipple to foul the body of the lever as you shift. This leads to the 'sticky' shifting you mention. Could be something else of course, but sounds similar to mine. Not sure about the left hand shifter but it sounds like he ratchet and pawl are not engaging. They are pretty simple to take apart, check out you tube for video tutorials. All you need is a few basic tools including a 'hook' tool of some sort (I used a dremmel to grind a notch in a cheap old knackered small screwdriver) t remove the spring. Make sure you do it on a clean surface and place he parts in exactly the order they came out. Possibly just a strip, clean and lube will help. You may be able to see witness/ track makes on the inside of the body if the problem is as I described.
Good luck.
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Nice one Pete. Thanks for the info. I had kind of already resigned myself to the fact that they need taken apart. Just can't decide if I can be bothered! I could live with the shifts as they are but would like them to be better and equally don't want them to fail as soon as I have taped the bars (deliberately haven't done that yet just in case!)
C0 -
JD whickers is a good source of spares.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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Before assuming damage, its worth removing it from your bars, and on the back under the clamp ring there is a washer with a bolt - these can come loose, and cause the issues you have if they do.0
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Thanks Steve,
I removed them and lubed the cables and a liberal spray of teflon lube and they seem to be working now....
The lever throw on the RHS is still further and not quite as 'clunky' as on my other ergos but working none the less. The LH lever still clicks forever but no performance loss from this, just a bit odd.
Thanks again,
C0 -
On the LH lever, when it continues to click is the cable getting slacker or does it not move?
If the cable gets slacker the more you click, it just means the front derailleur has come up against its inner stop. This can be stopped by shortening the cable.
If the cable is not getting slacker then there is a problem with the shifter. But if it still functions don't worry about it.Tearfund Tour of Scotland 26th May to 1st June 2013
http://www.justgiving.com/phil-godley0 -
The front shifter is microshift, not fully indexed. I think they were all triple-compatible (not sure, mine is) so they can pull a lot more cable than required for a double. Did you set the lever to its farthest/slackest position before tensioning and fitting the cable?
If the shifter was several clicks in when you set the tension, you will be able to slack off more than needed.0