In order, What are the 5 best upgrades I can do to my bike
j4mi3
Posts: 19
I have about £500 to spend
Basically my bike is fairly meh, apart from some rockshox recon 120mm forks
so basically, any of the other components apart from the forks you can play with and suggest for me
I would like to know the upgrades which would have THE BIGGEST IMPACT in terms of weight saving (i.e. hill climbing) but also stuff which looks nice and is fairly strong. I know that strength and weight saving don't go hand in hand, so somewhere in the middle please.
A new crankset would be nice, along with new tyres. Brakes also. Wheels, but they are really expensive. Is it worth it for some wheels?
My riding is about 50% road use and 50% trail, but sometimes I am like screw it and go crazy so i need something which can take a beating if it suits
for brakes I was looking at the elixir 7.
Basically my bike is fairly meh, apart from some rockshox recon 120mm forks
so basically, any of the other components apart from the forks you can play with and suggest for me
I would like to know the upgrades which would have THE BIGGEST IMPACT in terms of weight saving (i.e. hill climbing) but also stuff which looks nice and is fairly strong. I know that strength and weight saving don't go hand in hand, so somewhere in the middle please.
A new crankset would be nice, along with new tyres. Brakes also. Wheels, but they are really expensive. Is it worth it for some wheels?
My riding is about 50% road use and 50% trail, but sometimes I am like screw it and go crazy so i need something which can take a beating if it suits
for brakes I was looking at the elixir 7.
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Depends on what's on there already. Generally saddle, tyres, grips, pedals, wheels.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
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Parktools0 -
Without knowing what your bike is, and the components, is hard to say.
First off list what parts you have. Also what is your budget?0 -
Hi guys as mentioned in the op, budget around £500. HOWEVER if you need to go over budget because you think it is worth it, then tell me it might be adjustable
it is this bike, with auriga comp hydralics, and an upgraded rockshox recon 120mm u turn fork
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/mon ... D#features0 -
It is one of those bikes with a very even spec. Which means there are no really bad parts. I don't think it is worth upgrading, if you want a lighter bike I'd sell it and put your budget to a new bike. Spending 500 on it will not get you a lighter bike than something new.0
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For example:
http://www.radon-bikes.de/xist4c/web/ZR ... 20526_.htm
This is far and away better than anything you could do.0 -
The single biggest upgrade you can do for riding uphills is to just ride more.j4mi3 wrote:I would like to know the upgrades which would have THE BIGGEST IMPACT in terms of weight saving (i.e. hill climbing)
I'm going to stick my neck out and suggest that my main bike is probably heavier than yours, and I'd probably smoke you up any hill. Because I ride up a hell of a lot of hills.
Other than that, just change whatever part of the bike you find lacking.0 -
YeehaaMcgee wrote:
The single biggest upgrade you can do for riding uphills is to just ride more.j4mi3 wrote:I would like to know the upgrades which would have THE BIGGEST IMPACT in terms of weight saving (i.e. hill climbing)
I'm going to stick my neck out and suggest that my main bike is probably heavier than yours, and I'd probably smoke you up any hill. Because I ride up a hell of a lot of hills.
Other than that, just change whatever part of the bike you find lacking.
challenge accepted
I do ride a lot of hills but I think the bike plays a big part as well0 -
To make hill climbing easier you might want to get new wheels and tyres - reduce the rotational mass in the rims and tyres plus better tyres might give you a better time climbing but I'd probably agree with Supersonic that 500 quid chucked into what is obstensively a budget bike might be 500 bucks wasted.
I guess you could replace the frame with something like a 180 quid Ragley Piglet and upgrade the wheels for a couple hundred sell the old frame for a bit and use that money plus whatever is left over to get a few other new bits to upgrade the drive train or brakes?Then youd have a nice new frame and one you could justify continuing to upgrade!Closet jockey wheel pimp whore.0 -
Piglet is heavier than the Goose though!0
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here's the situation, was just out riding and got a puncture in my rear tyre. These tyres are seriously beaten, and I cba to repair them anymore
so new tyres are definitely what I will be ordering. Like right now.
I am thinking Maxxis high roller 2. something that is great off road but still fairly nippy on road. What do you think?
as for the get a new frame to justify upgrading. surely i will only be saving like 1-2kg max. is there really much point? I would need to spend in excess of £300 on a frame to really see some weight reduction. This is something I am HAPPY to do IF i upgrade the frame, as I would want it to last.0 -
If you want a great off-road tyre that also rolls remarkably well on road, check out the Continental Mountain King2, in black chilli compound. It really is quite impressive.0
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My point wasnt so much that you'd be saving weight more that (in my perception at least) is that the Goose is a budget frame and to spend money upgrading may be false economy but buying a "better" frame - at least one based around the fork length you have - might then justify the expense of new parts.
If its pure weight saving you want then as I say tyres and wheels are your best starting point.Closet jockey wheel pimp whore.0 -
j4mi3 wrote:here's the situation, was just out riding and got a puncture in my rear tyre. These tyres are seriously beaten, and I cba to repair them anymore
so new tyres are definitely what I will be ordering. Like right now.
I am thinking Maxxis high roller 2. something that is great off road but still fairly nippy on road. What do you think?
as for the get a new frame to justify upgrading. surely i will only be saving like 1-2kg max. is there really much point? I would need to spend in excess of £300 on a frame to really see some weight reduction. This is something I am HAPPY to do IF i upgrade the frame, as I would want it to last.
i would say saving 1 to 2 kg is huge in biking terms. maybe others think different but id love to chop that weight off my bike.Boardman comp 20120 -
as for the get a new frame to justify upgrading. surely i will only be saving like 1-2kg max. is there really much point? I would need to spend in excess of £300 on a frame to really see some weight reduction. This is something I am HAPPY to do IF i upgrade the frame, as I would want it to last.
Your frame is pretty tough and average in weight. You could get a new frame, but you have to make sure the parts you have will fit.
As before, apart from a couple of minor things that people usually make anyway (tyres, grips) I just don't think it is worth it, as you'd just make minor savings there after for a lot of outlay. If you goal is a light bike, this is not one to upgrade - I'd get a new bike. Your Mongoose will weigh about 32lbs. The bike I pointed out earlier is 25.5lbs, so that is 6.5lbs lighter for a start.0 -
So, where abouts are you based? Anywhere near north Wales?j4mi3 wrote:YeehaaMcgee wrote:
The single biggest upgrade you can do for riding uphills is to just ride more.j4mi3 wrote:I would like to know the upgrades which would have THE BIGGEST IMPACT in terms of weight saving (i.e. hill climbing)
I'm going to stick my neck out and suggest that my main bike is probably heavier than yours, and I'd probably smoke you up any hill. Because I ride up a hell of a lot of hills.
Other than that, just change whatever part of the bike you find lacking.
challenge accepted
I do ride a lot of hills but I think the bike plays a big part as well0 -
Change of plan, I think I will go for the kenda small block 8
I believe they will suit where and how I ride, taking into account a good 50% is on the road until i get to some off roadYeehaaMcgee wrote:So, where abouts are you based? Anywhere near north Wales?
Nowhere near
I am near High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire. About 20miles west of london
It is a very hilly area where I live, I actually live on a very steep hill. My main source of off roading is the lookout in Bracknell. There are a load of videos on youtube of it. Other than that, I am kind of limited to riding the dirt tracks down by the river or just random public footpaths0 -
I wouldn't put too much money on yourself winning then. I live next to Swinley, and there are some gentle humps. (fun but still humps). Surrey Hills has some hills. Bucks has some hills.
Where Yeehaa lives there are actual genuine mountains. Big buggers.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
cooldad wrote:I wouldn't put too much money on yourself winning then. I live next to Swinley, and there are some gentle humps. (fun but still humps). Surrey Hills has some hills. Bucks has some hills.
Where Yeehaa lives there are actual genuine mountains. Big buggers.
haha maybe, but I won't go down without a fight
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One 80 wrote:i would say saving 1 to 2 kg is huge in biking terms. maybe others think different but id love to chop that weight off my bike.
Diet for a month. As a bonus, it costs nothing.0 -
Very rarely do Yeehaa and I agree but, having moved from the South five years ago to the Peak District, when I used to ride primarily at Swinley and North Downs, and reckoned I was quite a tasty climber, they're nothing but pimples and I reckon you'd be in for an arse kicking...0
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Chinley Churner wrote:Very rarely do Yeehaa and I agree but, having moved from the South five years ago to the Peak District, when I used to ride primarily at Swinley and North Downs, and reckoned I was quite a tasty climber, they're nothing but pimples and I reckon you'd be in for an ars* kicking...
my confidence is being reduced with every post0 -
Only tongue in cheek....
For climbing performance, drop rotating mass so, wheels and tyres.
These come in under your budget... I've tried the 29-er version, they were super fast, tubeless ready, hand-built and truing for life guaranteed.
http://www.stradawheels.co.uk/shop/mtb-wheels/0 -
Hi mate got some Michelin Dry 2 Reinforced 2.3" on my ride and they are great for the inevitable tarmac that we have to use. As mentioned there comes a point when it's not "viable" to just keep putting money into a certain level bike (not saying your bike isn't worth it just at SOME point the parts will be worth more than the sum total..... If you see what i mean) :roll:.
If it was me i would go for:
Tyres (mine aren't the lightest BUT make up for it by not "dragging" much).
Wheels.
Pedals (some kind of SPD alike because it makes powering up hills easier because you can pull as well as push the cranks round) depends if you "get on" with them.
Brakes because what goes up has to come down in the end maybe just some bigger rotors?
wider bar and grips (i know that makes six...... :roll:).
Thanks.0 -
Why does everything come down to wider bars? Bigger rotors?
There are optimum sizes for people, bikes etc. Going bigger isn't better.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
@ Chinley
thanks for the recommendation mate, tyres are getting replaced for sure, but I think I might wait until a new bike for the wheels, or at least not in this upgrade. my ones have surficed so far, and if I did get some, I would go for superawesome ones and likely spend 500+
I think I will get brakes+smaller parts+tyres for now as I have been after some brakes for ages but never took the plunge.
The auriga are not bad, but I just want that extra power, not to mention they look pretty amateur
@darkstalker
thanks for your input mate. I think I have decided on the kenda 8 block. From what I have read they are superb in dry, and even wet as long as it isn't wet muddy conditions. Even then, I think they should be workable
I was thinking about doing pedals/bar/stem/brakes/tyres for now, and that should last me for a while until something breaks0 -
cooldad wrote:Why does everything come down to wider bars? Bigger rotors?
There are optimum sizes for people, bikes etc. Going bigger isn't better.
I wasn't necesarilly going bigger, just more sturdy/reliable than the standard mongoose ones.
I will post the ones I am considering
it was between the nukeproof warhead stem/riser combo
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=80332
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=55480
or
the raceface evolve xc stem/riser
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=41179
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=57003
the nukeproof is slightly more expensive, and the stem seems much shorter..
for the pedals I was going with these nanotech here. I like the flat pedals and these seem to have great reviews
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_ ... cts_id=127
tyres: kenda small block 8 26x2.10 folding
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... tedKingdom
for the brakes
(wait for it)
elixir 7 2013 models
I believe brakes are very important so I didn't want to skimp on these, and I am aware they amount to just under half the price of the bike, but I don't see the point in going for mediocre brakes. May as well go big or go home.
what are your thoughts on these upgrades?0 -
I wasn't suggesting 203mm Saint rotors all round and a SuperStar "yardlong" riser :roll:. Maybe a 180mm at the front 160 is enough at the back for most. And maybe something a LITTLE wider than the standard (probably 680mm ish).
Thanks.0 -
Maybe look into some of the mid range Shimano brakes. No experience myself i have to say but i hear they perform VERY well for the money. As for the pedals i have some old Shimano SPD's they really did make riding more "efficient" but i'm getting on a bit now and the shoes are to small and i can't be arsed to replace them...... Plus it makes popping down the shops a real pain so i stick with flats now.
I personally would probably go with the RaceFace kit (longer stem choice). BUT i like more of a reach/stretch so prefer a longer stem. I t depends what you are looking for tbh a more upright "play about" position or a more longer "XC" feel.
Thanks.0
