Chain wear!
I noticed the chain slipping on my Allez last night but it was so wet when I came in I just put it away . Tonight I have checked the chain with a chain wear checker and it's grubbed, both end of the checker fell straight through! The chain is a shimano Dura ace ( before anyone says about fancy chains it was bought because it was in a sale and I was tempted by the idea that I could justify it) it's only done 900 miles and has been degreased, cleaned and relubed every 100 miles without fail. Surely it should have lasted longer than this. Btw the chainrings and cassette apear to still be in good condition (Ultegra).
Thomson0
Thomson0
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Comments
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My last KMC chain did 1756 rough road winter miles so I would be dissapointed in that milage from any chain let alone DA!0
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Yeah, I've come to the conclusion Shimano chains are a bit rubbish - its KMC for me from now on.0
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if the chain slips, maybe it's the cassette that is screwed - 900 miles is nothing, a chain should last much longermy bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny0
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Yeah KMC's shelf life are second to none.0
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That is premature!
If your rings or cassette are worn you will wear the chain VERY quickly. Also if you run it with dirt/grimey paste it will degrade quickly, but sounds like you have worn rings/sprockets.
What lube do you use? Chains need something reasonabley viscous... WD40/GT85 etc are no good for chains, too thin.0 -
My chain just begining to slip after 4800 miles (cn-6600 ultegra),my m8s dura-ace was knacked at 1500 ish .0
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It should last longer than that, use a metal rule instead of a hit and miss chain wear checker. I used those chains for years and you'll get over 3000 miles out of one, i've swapped to KMC now because of the constant recommendations on here but there's squat all between them ....... i do like the quick link though so i'll stick with them.
As far as maintenance goes - after every ride, i blast the chain with WD40 to remove the crap and then i coat it with 3 in 1 or similar and remove the excess with a rag.0 -
WD40 is NOT a lube.
KMCs advice is not to bathe the cahin in de-greaser as it can be difficult to get lub into the vital pivot points again. Without lub in those areas the chain will wear very quickly.
Also an overlubed chain is just as bad as it will attrack dirt and that mixed with oild is the perfect grinding paste.
Sage advice can be found on their website :-
http://www.kmcchain.eu/?en/maintenance/0 -
Who said that WD40 was a lube? You stated it but nobody said it was, it sounds like you've got some WD40 issues.
Why is WD40 bad for your bike? Is it going to melt the carbon or turn it to dust? is it going to rust or pit the metal work? Is it going to rot the rubber and leather?
I use WD40 as a mild degreaser to clean my chain which is then wiped clean and then sprayed with a lubricant.0 -
Blimey Bozman, easy tiger, chill I did not say that you thought it a lubricant. It was just a statement, loads of people think it is a great chain lube, which it isn't. Just re-staing that.0
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bockers wrote:Blimey Bozman, easy tiger, chill I did not say that you thought it a lubricant. It was just a statement, loads of people think it is a great chain lube, which it isn't. Just re-staing that.
Sorry, I'll get off my high horse, i've just had sh**e ride in the rain topped off with a filthy bike(chain) to clean, topical.0 -
Know the feeling I needed to do another 40 miles to get a 600 mile month and it is hammering it down here today. fed up with cleaning my summer bike after nearly every ride this "summer". BBC weather forecasts are shockingly innacurate too0
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News just in ! Chain wear - BBC at fault shocker !
(just kidding around)A person who aims at nothing is sure to hit it
Canyon Aeroad 7.0 summer missile
Trek 2.1 winter hack0 -
hulla the hulla wrote:News just in ! Chain wear - BBC at fault shocker !
(just kidding around)
I got 4k out of my old 105 (to be fair I changed it early as I bought new wheels with a new ultegra cassette) and so far 1500 and still going strong from my ultegra chain - as mentioned before, regular maintenance is keyA person who aims at nothing is sure to hit it
Canyon Aeroad 7.0 summer missile
Trek 2.1 winter hack0 -
The fancier the chain, the less mileage I get. When I built up my latest bike, I got a £40-50 fancy light SRAM chain with hollow pins etc. - it didn't last ever so well (I don't keep super detailed logs on component replacement - but somewhere around 2500km).
These days I use the lowest end KMC chains for whichever number of gears (we have everything here from single gear to 8, 9 and 10 speed and then a tandem that is just awaiting new chains to be delivered (takes 3 chains to replace everything on a tandem! £££)).
On the audax bike, I typically get 4-500km out of a chain. I do tend to change chains ealier rather than later to avoid wearing out chainrings/cassettes).
As others have said, maintenance is key (though I can't claim to be a super-diligent bike cleaner by any definition!).
This year, with the weather, has been hard on chains and components in general.
But I do believe the fancier the chain, the less life you get out of it. So, unless you're made of money, stick with £20 chains and avoid the £50+ chains0 -
I usually use Ultegra chains (most often 1/3rd off on Ribble/PBK) and have always had 1,500 miles out of them before there's any real wear at all. Tend to get 4,000+ if I'm happy to junk the cassette as well.
If your chain was from the generation with the Shimano quick link then you'll probably find that the quick link is shot but the rest of the chain is fine. Shimano had to dump them pretty quickly and go back to pin connectors.
Re WD40. I'm with Bozman. It's a great way of getting grime off a chain/cassette (better than any degreaser I've used). You just need to make sure to rinse/wipe off the excess and apply a decent lube after cleaning.0 -
bockers wrote:KMCs advice is not to bathe the cahin in de-greaser as it can be difficult to get lub into the vital pivot points again. Without lub in those areas the chain will wear very quickly.
I know KMC make chains and I do appreciate the irony of an ordinary punter like me questioning them - but surely the dirt gets in to the pivot points and the original factory lube must get dirty and degrade? As a result I just don't understand this - cleaning chains and then carefully dropping lube onto each pivot point makes sense to me and feel right - just wiping down the outside plates and leaving the inner bits as thye left the factory doesn't.
FWIW - My chains so far have lasted 1500 miles getting cleaned (chain cleaner and degreaser - dry in the oven - lube pivot points - wipe of excess) ever 100 miles or so (always after v wet rides).0