Which Spoke Key
Secteur
Posts: 1,971
Hello,
Which size Park Tools spoke key do I need for Shimano RS30 wheels?
Thanks,
Which size Park Tools spoke key do I need for Shimano RS30 wheels?
Thanks,
0
Comments
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If they use the same spokes as the RS10s that's 4mm ? If so its the blue one
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... tedKingdom0 -
Sorry would have been more helpful if I had added that the part no for RS10 nipples is
Y012Z4070 Nipple (Silver), Y012Z4076 Nipple (Red), Y012Z4077 Nipple (Blue)
For RS30s the Tech Doc lists the same part no for the nipples (Red) and the spoke wrench part no and code is the same for both so they must be the same nipples -
http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/bl ... ID=jyinzdn0 -
Fantastic, thanks for this!
The guy in the bike shop yesterday tried to sell me the black one but I wasnt convinced as he had to google for that, and his reasoning didnt follow logic (me knowing nothing of spoke wrenches)0 -
Secteur wrote:The guy in the bike shop yesterday tried to sell me the black one but I wasnt convinced as he had to google for that, and his reasoning didnt follow logic (me knowing nothing of spoke wrenches)
Maybe he's colour blind0 -
Oh, I noticed that the bit which I think is "the nipple" isnt red?0
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Secteur wrote:Oh, I noticed that the bit which I think is "the nipple" isnt red?
Mmm...
If you're not sure if it is the nipple best post a pic and we can check.
Re colour I don't think it neccesarily makes a difference as the 4mm ones come in (at least) three colours - but - find the Shimano Tech Doc for your exact model of wheel and you can get the part number there (and the expanded diagram may help you pin down what part it is). I posted the part numbers for the RS10 nipples earlier so if its one of those then the blue key will fit. If it's not then maybe re-post the part number here or on Workshop - someone will know.
EDIT - PS - Sorry I can't resist it are you colour blind as well?0 -
OK, here is a pic.
They are 2011 Shimano RS30 wheels in black... that's all I know.
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That's a silver nipple - the Shimano Part number is Y-012 Z4070 - I am certain the blue Park Spoke Wrench will fit it.0
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Thank you so much - will order it today!0
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Secteur wrote:Thank you so much - will order it today!
It looks like an alloy nipple. Don't force it if it is "hard" to turn. Alloy nipples are very brittle and they tend to seize. If this is the case, try a drop of WD40 before attempting to turn it. For the record, you can probably replace it with any brass nipple of the same length (12 or 14 mm typically) in case it breaksleft the forum March 20230 -
Secteur wrote:Thank you so much - will order it today!
Good stuff I am sure it will be fine as the Shimano Tech Docs say the RS30 nipples are liable to change in colour (hence yours aren't red ones) and that they are compatible even if different colour with the RS10 ones and the blue fits my RS10s perfectly - nice snug fit on the nipple flats. Good advice from Ugo as always but for what it's worth your spokes also look to be the aero ones like mine so it's worth also getting the tool that stops the spokes turning when you adjust the nipple (wish I had got one its a simple thing that slips over the spokes while you turn the nipple). Out of curiousity please let us know if it works out.0 -
Does the next size up tend to usually work, although loose it does work?
My (yellow) "Spokey" is really loose on my new bike's spokes. Still works but its really loose.
Fortunately there is only very little tension, so it never slips.
Just trying to save people money. :P
Here's my hint: Don't try to true up wheels first thing in the morning. Have a coffee and wake up first, I have to anyway. It can end up so messed up so easily. I literally do 16th or 8th turns, almost in a forensic way. :!:0 -
Manc33 wrote:Does the next size up tend to usually work, although loose it does work?My (yellow) "Spokey" is really loose on my new bike's spokes. Still works but its really loose.Fortunately there is only very little tension, so it never slips.
You might get it to work with a larger size wrench but I wouldn't. Its all to easy to damage nipples and like using any wrench/spanner you want the closest fit possible to avoid damage. I would not claim any expertise in wheelbuilding (I wouldn't go past the simple routine maintenance wheel true stage) but if there is only very little tension then I am certain the spokes are too loose. Someone will be along soon to correct me (Ugo ?) if I am wrong but I am sure from the little I do know that even though spoke tension does vary from wheel to wheel no wheelset is ever supposed to be built with very little tension. I suppose though very little is a relative subjective term -do you find yourself having to true your wheels often (or have them breaking) by any chance?0 -
By the way, how do I know if the tension is right? How do I measure the tension of each spoke?
I am only buying the key as my rear wheel is slightly out of true following an accident.
I plan to look at a few tutorials before I attempt any trueing!0 -
AFAIK - the tradition/craft/art way is to ping/strike the spoke and listen to the note (higher tension = higher note and vice-versa). You can buy a tensionometer that will measure it objectively (Park do boht mechanical and digital models). When I do mine - I would only ever take on making correction of minor deviations from true - I just ping it and try to feel if its the same as its neighbours. Also (again AFAIK) there is no way a spoke can increase in tension with use or damage - they can only loosen ... so if the wheel was once true, and goes out, and you can only tighten nipples, you can easily work out which spoke(s) to tighten to re-true. I am careful not to overcorrect and even though I know its an approximation - so far - it has worked for me and minor corrections I have made have stayed true!
I would love one but can't justify the cost of a tensionometer as I do this so rarely and don't build nor would I re-build or repair a wheel which had major problems.0