Removing Octalink BB

TheBigBean

I'm trying to remove my v1 Octalink BB, but can't get the drive side to budge. After some research on Google I realise I need two more pieces of kit (i) a bolt / clamp to hold the tool in place (ii) an old bit of pipe. I don't have these lying around, so can anyone help with the following:

1. Do I need a really long bolt that goes through to the other side, or can I get a bolt that attaches to the BB? What size do I need and where do you buy such a thing?

I don't have the Park BBT-22, just a poor man's version which no doubt affects this.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cyclus-bottom-b ... l-shimano/

2. Where do you get the old bit of pipe?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

keef66

You don't need to bolt the tool into place, just make sure it's snugly engaged.

You then need a large adjustable spanner to grip the tool firmly. For the drive side it's clockwise to undo it, so position the handle horizontally pointing towards the front of the bike, and press downwards.

If that doesn't shift it, you may need to make the handle a bit longer. I've managed it by cable-tying a length of timber to the spanner, but a length of steel pipe slipped over it is even better

Giraffoto

Don't get started on bits of pipe, get one of these and a 32mm socket. For when "no" is not the answer you're looking for . . .

TheBigBean

keef66 wrote:

You don't need to bolt the tool into place, just make sure it's snugly engaged.

You then need a large adjustable spanner to grip the tool firmly. For the drive side it's clockwise to undo it, so position the handle horizontally pointing towards the front of the bike, and press downwards.

If that doesn't shift it, you may need to make the handle a bit longer. I've managed it by cable-tying a length of timber to the spanner, but a length of steel pipe slipped over it is even better

I basically tried exactly that and am now on the extending the length of my wrench part. The problem is that it is quite an effort to take everything off in the first place, so I'd like to be sure I'm going to get it off next time, that's why I was looking for the bolt and extender.

TheBigBean

Giraffoto wrote:

Don't get started on bits of pipe, get one of these and a 32mm socket. For when "no" is not the answer you're looking for . . .

I wondered about that approach, but it is relatively expensive and would prevent me from keeping it in place with a bolt.

This video is my current thinking, but he doesn't have an Octalink and he just happens to have an iron pipe lying around.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2wzA6MsRPJE

Thanks for all the helpful comments.

bill57

If an Octalink BB is tightly fitted, you definitely need the through bolt to hold it all in place, otherwise the tool will just skip out, tear the alloy cup, skin your knuckles and possibly break your toes, depending where all these bits are at the time. For the through bolt, I've always used the quick release from the rear wheel (you might need to add washers/spacers to get a snug fit) and it works every time. You just need to remember to keep loosening the Q/R as the cup unscrews, which effectively changes the length. You might still need a long pipe if it's very tight though.

onlyonearrow

A slight different approach is mentioned on the Park Tools website - using the bike frame as a lever...
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cartridge-bearing-type-bottom-bracket-service-bbt

Seized Cups
It can occur that the cup becomes seized in the frame. Be sure to double check thread direction when in doubt. The common 20-tooth internal spline cup has shallow splines for tool engagement. Use a long bolt to secure the BBT-22 to the cup. A skewer can be used if the spindle is hollow. Use a bench vise to hold the tool. The frame become the lever. Again, double check thread direction before turning. Soak threads with a penetrating fluid before attempting removal.

TheBigBean

Thanks for the suggestions.

I'm going to have a look to see if I have a spare quick release for a rear wheel tonight as that sounds like it could work. Less keen on using my existing one! I'm assuming it needs to be 109.5mm (for BB) long + tool length? I'll then need to investigate large washers and spacers.

Sadly, I don't have a vice or any type of clamp, so Park's idea doesn't work for me.

bill57

My BB tool is the same as the one in the picture, and has a "neck" on it for a socket wrench to fit into. The Q/R has to go all the way through this, plus the Q/R locknut (non-lever side) is drilled all the wat through so it can be screwed as far down as the threads allow. You can use anything as spacers, big nuts would do. There's really no risk to the Q/R involved, it's just a clamp to hold it all in place. At the risk of repeating myself, the most important thing is to remember to loosen the Q/R once the cup starts to unscrew (just a bit at a time) otherwise the whole thing will tighten up.

TheBigBean

Bill thanks to your tip, I think I've found a variant solution. When looking for an old QR skewer in the home of all my bike bits, I found an old school rear wheel complete with 180 mm threaded bolt and cups to hold the bearings in place. This means I won't need any spacers (it is threaded the whole way) and the cups are sufficiently large to hold my non-Park tool without the neck. Result. That surely justifies not throwing away any bike bits for another decade.

Your point on loosening is noted and well made.

Just need to track down some old pipe and I'm all set.

bill57

That sounds ideal, best of luck.

tallmat

I removed exactly the same BB last weekend. Didn't bother with retaining bolt. Just soaked the BB with penetrating oil (Plusgas Dismantling De-Seizing Lubricant is the best..ask any farm mechanic!), left it for a few hours and it grudgingly turned with big adjustable spanner and lots of pressure. There was a lot of moisture around the BB so rust is inevitable. Replaced it with Shimano outboard bearing BB and new chainset.

nicklouse

tallmat wrote:

I removed exactly the same BB last weekend. Didn't bother with retaining bolt. Just soaked the BB with penetrating oil (Plusgas Dismantling De-Seizing Lubricant is the best..ask any farm mechanic!), left it for a few hours and it grudgingly turned with big adjustable spanner and lots of pressure. There was a lot of moisture around the BB so rust is inevitable. Replaced it with Shimano outboard bearing BB and new chainset.

get the BB faced.

TheBigBean

That Plusgas Dismantling De-Seizing Lubricant sounds pretty useful.

My BB is still creaking away as I haven't had chance to have another go yet. Still struggling to find a suitable pipe, but with all the useful advice here I think I will get there.