Need some help!

cdw

Hi all,

I've got this bike & it's recently fallen victim to a stab wound in the back tyre.

Just wondering what tools do I need to take the tyre off & replace the inner tube?

Thanks

pickylongstocking

First of all you will need an 80 ton mobile crane to lift the bike for you, then an oxycetalene torch for removing the QR skewer. Once you have the wheel safely on the floor an angle grinder (the bigger the better) will assist in removing the tyre to allow access to the inner tube. Now to remove the inner tube you will need a couple of friends to help you stretch it over the rim being careful not to catch it on those sharp edges. Then simply replace with a new inner tube being sure to align the valve with the hole properly. Replace the tyre using hydraulic pincher to get over the rims and then using a large compressor blow the tyre up to the desired pressure.

Alternatively get yourself some tyre levers (apx. £5)

cdw

Impeccable reply, with such rigorous detail I'm left somewhat speechless. I'll definitely be staying at these forums.

Twat.

pickylongstocking

My apologies my razor sharp wit got ahead of me somewhat.

On a serious note you just need a set of tyre lever. Deflate the tyre at the valve and with the curved edge hook a section of tyre bead from under the rim, then hook the hooked end onto a spoke to allow you to leave it there whilst you get another tyre lever and insert it next to the original. Then run it around the rim until one sidewall pops off the rim, the other should follow with a little tug.

Pull off existing inner tube and replace, you should be able to get one side wall on with you hands and a majority of the other too. The final section will need your tyre levers again and depending on how tight these are pehaps some brute force.

Ensure you have the correct pump for the valve of the new inner tube and pump away till shes full (there's that damn razor sharp wit again)

corshamjim

If the wheel doesn't have quick-release levers, you'll need a spanner to undo the bolts. Both my bikes need a 15mm spanner, but that's not a hard-and-fast standard. If in doubt, take your bike to Halfords / B&Q / wherever and try some spanners before you buy.

When looking for a pump, if you have some spare cash, consider getting a track pump (one that sits on the ground with a tall plunger) it makes pumping the tyre up to pressure a heck of a lot easier than with one of those pocket pumps. To make sure you get the tyre to the right pressure, either get a separate pressure gauge, or buy a pump with a built-in gauge. For example this one.

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/topeak-topea ... prod12503/

If you don't have a pressure gauge, a general rule of thumb is it should be quite difficult to depress the tyre by a mm or so with your thumb. Getting the tyre pressure right is important - too low and you risk getting pinch punctures as the tyre pinches the inner tube against the rim riding over bumps, or too high you risk damaging the tyre, the rim or blowing it off the rim. The recommended min/max pressures will be written on the side of the tyre.

Don't forget to look for the thorn, splinter or flint that caused the puncture and remove it from the tyre (if it's still embedded there) before you fit the new inner tube.

t4tomo

Don't forget to look for the thorn, splinter or flint that caused the puncture and remove it from the tyre (if it's still embedded there) before you fit the new inner tube.

^^^this is very important.

To help you, mark the position of the tyre vis a vis the valve with a bit a chalk or similar before you remove it.
you can find the hole in the tube by sticking it in a bowl of water and pumping it up again. line up tube valve with the mark on tyre and get looking for that nail / thorn/ glass etc.

put just enough air in the new tube to hold its shape to help you fit it. Put one bead of tyre onto rim, put tyre valve through hole and fit tuibe inside tyre, then fit other bead of tyre onto rim, being careful not to nip the tube. try to do all refitting with hands if you can.

London_Falcon

All good answers above. As a total noob this time last year , I just wanted to add:-

1) Buy a decent track pump first time round. I spent <£15 on a Sports Direct piece of rubbish that broke almost immediately. I now have a sub £40 ish Lezyne like this:-

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lezyne-sport-fl ... -abs-pump/

which makes the job much better. Gauge is accurate and you are less likely to damage the valve on the tyre (which I seemed to do repeatedly)

2) You mentioned replacing the inner tube. You'll save a fortune if you buy a cheap puncture repair kit and learn how to use it. I was a bit bothered about this at first but it's really simple as long as you follow the instructions carefully. And yes it really does mean leaving the glue to dry for 5 minutes before attempting to put the patch on. I now only replace for damaged valves.

corshamjim

Thinking of marking the position of the tyre vis-a-vis the valve, I digress a little but ...

Some people reckon its 'right' to position the logo on the side of the tyre opposite the valve. Aesthetically, I suppose that's true, but I prefer now to position the tyre on the rim so the min/max tyre pressure is right next to the valve so I know where to find it when I'm pumping up the tyre.

Note too that some tyres have a direction arrow showing which way around the tyre is supposed to rotate. I don't suppose it's the end of the world if you put it on the wrong way around, but it's worth checking and making sure the tyre is the right way around before you start seating the tyre. Some tyres can go either way around.

optimisticbiker

Or watch a video...

http://www.ehow.com/video_224_change-flat-tire.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYy4W2iH_NY