Difference between cyclo cross and road bike.

tk46hal
tk46hal Posts: 138
edited July 2012 in Road buying advice
Hi All,

I'm a mountain biker at heart but with some of the horrible wet muddy conditions we are having I have started riding on the roads at full speed covering between 30/40 mikes and I'm really enjoy it. Most of my mates are roadies at heart and I have come to the conclusion that I need and third bike. I currently have a full suspension 29er and a full rigid 29er. Both bikes I do use, but....! :wink: I had my first go last week on a friends cyclo cross and was amazed at the ease of climbing and the extra speeds. I suppose what I'm wanting to know is, other than the the obvious things, what are the main differences between road and cross? I have noticed that some c/c bikes have disc brakes of which for me would be a must after terrifying myself on the c/c bike and not being able to stop! So, are the differences the wheels and tyres?
I would appreciate any advise, but I think what I want is a bike that will go fast like a road bike, but which can also stop on a penny! Am I describing a cyclo cross bike? Do I buy a c/c bike and change the tyres for something faster rolling?

Thanks.

Comments

  • Gary D
    Gary D Posts: 431
    If you want to buy a bike to go fast on the roads - then buy a Road Bike - simples! :lol:

    Cyclo Cross bikes tend to have much greater clearances for wheels and tyres around the forks, chainstays and seat stays for sheeding mud and debris. The geometry is usually slightly different from a road bike with it being more relaxed.
    However, the big problem is that there seems to be a huge difference in spec between bikes being sold as cyclo cross bikes. A pure cyclo cross bike for example, is unlikely to have mudguard eyes or bottle cage bosses. The bottom bracket can also be higher.
    I have a Specialised Tricross, which although I do use it for cross, as it is my only option, is not a specific cross bike - a long way from it in fact. I also use it as a winter bike and put mudguards on it and narrower tyres and it is OK. It is heavier then my road bike, but is reasonably comfortable. However, the biggest weakness is the canti-lever brakes - they are pants compared to the dual pivot ones on my road bike. A cyclo cross bike for use on the roads is always going to be a comprimise.
    Particularly as you already have a rigid MTB, then my advice would be go for a road bike. You will be even more amazed how much better they are than a cross bike. Don't worry about not having disks though. Dual pivot brakes with some decent pads will stop you quick enough - it will be the tyres that let go first before you find the limits of the brakes!
    I hope that helps.
    Gary.
    Oh and I feel like I've been raped by an Orangutan :shock: And I've got legs like Girders :lol:
  • tk46hal
    tk46hal Posts: 138
    Thanks Gary! I find your advise very useful.
  • blakef111
    blakef111 Posts: 374
    I'm lucky enough to have both also,

    Main road ride is full carbon, but I also have a cross bike for a bit of everything.

    I ride it off road with cross tyres (quicker in my area than my mtb) and on road through the winter / wet weather and I have to admit I love it, Cross bikes make very versatile road bikes and I find the more relaxed position quite nice on longer rides.

    that said the Avid Shorty Cantilever brakes... SUCK! (£20 for a full f+r set at the moment on planet X) took 30 mins to fit and the stopping power is now awesome!

    The mudguard clearance is decreased but not to the extent of clogging.

    A worthwhile upgrade
  • BelgianBeerGeek
    BelgianBeerGeek Posts: 5,226
    OP: sounds like your primary concern is with going fast. Therefore you need a road bike. Keep the 29er for mucking around on.
    Ecrasez l’infame
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    I had a carbon road bike and a CX (boardman). But I only used the road bikes for commuting, my MTB is my 'weekend' bike. I bought the CX for winter commuting (it can take spiked tyres) plus it's got disc brakes so I'll be able to stop when it's wet. Bear in mind that a narrow road tyre will not grip as much as a fat MTB one, so you won't stop like you were on your MTB, at least I don't on 25mm tyres. I flipped the stem to get a more aggressive position, put slick tyres on it and only added a couple of minutes at most onto my 15 mile commute time. I sold the road bike because the CX is, for me, 99% as good on the road as the road bike. It's slightly heavier, but not noticably so during a ride, and it's actually a lot stiffer which is much more reassuring when I'm standing out of the saddle to pedal. Plus it's more practical.

    I've since done more riding other than commuting (on and off road) on the CX, and don't feel the need to replace the road bike. I'm only riding on my own though (up to 60 miles), if I was racing then maybe I'd want something different.
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."