Carerra Fury headset loose
mickisup
Posts: 295
When I apply the front brake the headset wobbles and today when riding it was very noticeable when coming down a technical decent. Taken the top bolt out and headset bolts and tightened all up but if anything its worse :roll: I can't see any other bolts to tighten so not sure whether the headset has had it or what else to do. What else could it be? Thanks
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slacken the stem bolts first then tighten the top cap bolt to remove play then tighten the stem bolts up."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Thanks, tried that but what I have found is that the forks are what are loose. How do I tighten these up once the bars are off?0
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How are the forks loose?0
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if you have not changed anything then the bearings are dead or missing."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
All I can say is that when I apply the front brake the forks appear to float around in the frame. Then when I take the bars off the forks just appear very loose at the bottom and top of when they insert.0
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mickisup wrote:All I can say is that when I apply the front brake the forks appear to float around in the frame. Then when I take the bars off the forks just appear very loose at the bottom and top of when they insert.
bars or stem?
again repeating what i said above.if you have not changed anything then the bearings are dead or missing."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
mickisup wrote:All I can say is that when I apply the front brake the forks appear to float around in the frame. Then when I take the bars off the forks just appear very loose at the bottom and top of when they insert.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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Sorry its the STEM that appears to float around even when everything is done up.
Can I replace the bearings myself or is it a LBS job?0 -
Easy job, but if you have taken all the bits off you should be able to look at the bearings.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
A common part of specific to the make/model?0
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Specific to the headset.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
Just to add taken all apart and I don't see bearings at the top or bottom. Confused now, have I lost them?0
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mickisup wrote:Just to add taken all apart and I don't see bearings at the top or bottom. Confused now, have I lost them?"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Unless they are in the cups where they belong.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
The Fury as standard uses 'semi-catridge' bearings, a one piece assembly you push in, you can't take it apart and won't see inside (very much) to the balls/rollers (whatever is fitted).Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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Popped into LBS and fixed it a few seconds... :oops:
Looks like Halfords had left a spacer off the headset assembly and over time it had worked loose and hence the movement. New spacer added, tightened up and its now spot on.0 -
I've assembled quite a few bikes from factories, never did I do anything but adjust a headset. Seems very odd something was missing. Plus it just happened by all counts this movement.0
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It appears that just one spacer was missing.0
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From where exactly?0
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Not that Messitup hasn't had it apart a couple of times........Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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The Beginner wrote:Not that Messitup hasn't had it apart a couple of times........I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
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The 'stem' has four slim spacers in it, each separate pieces, two larger than the other two. Three spacers were in place, one was missing and that was all that was wrong. It had clearly been left off at some point and taken this long to work loose enough to be noticeable. By adding a slim spacer right at the top closed the gap sufficiently and made the top bold secure tightly. Nothing to do with meddling :?0
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Still don't get how you would preload the headset without all the spacer being there.0
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Chunkers1980 wrote:Still don't get how you would preload the headset without all the spacer being there.
It's an impossibility. I fear they may have been bullshi**ing you.0 -
I don't know, sorry guys it taken a while to be noticeable but its been getting worse and we are talking about a few mm gap that I didn't even notice until going downhill yesterday at speed.0
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The spacers aren't in the stem, they are between it and the headset and round the steerer........ A few mm means massive play in the headset!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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The only thing i could fathom is that they assembled the bike, then for some reason, took off the stem, removed a spacer, then re-fitted the stem - the only thing then holding the headset would be the expansion ring.
However, that's highly unlikely of getting worse over time, it would just be one THUNK! and it's loose as hell.0