Don't like my brakes...
because they don't stop me quick enough. They are Shimano Cantis and rubbish. I have had too many heartstopping moments with them. I do almost all my own work on my bikes and I can't improve these. Even my LBS had a go and still not good enough. I am used to the dual pivot sidepull on my race bikes. These Cantis are on my tourers. I have replaced the set on one bike with frogglegs, an improvement but fickle to keep set up and they stick out too much. Both frames are 531 so I am considering drilling them out to take sidepulls. I have no intention to fit tyres wider than 28mm so wonder if anybody has done this or knows of any problems. My LBS can't see why not as the brake bolt will take the strain rather than the frame. Any comments?
Nothing to prove. http://adenough1.blogspot.co.uk/
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The extra reach in itself reduces braking force (eg 49mm drop to 73mm drop reduces braking to 67% of what it was), then on top of that the brake calipers are of lower quality and are less rigid.
I'd recommend that you look at mini-Vs, which will limit tyre size to 28mm or so but will allow your existing brake levers, or full size Vs with the V-compatible Tektro brake levers. This would mean bar-end or down tube shifters if you are currently STI/ergo.
You'd need to check if the width the brake bosses on your bike(s) was suitable. Older touring bikes tend to have narrow set bosses which force the V-brake arms to splay outward like they shouldn't
On Strava.{/url}
I bought Shimano mini-V brakes and a thing called a Travel Agent to adjust the pull ratio from mountain to road brake levers. Works like a charm! I actually have a complete spare set as there wasn't enough clearance with my pannier rack to fit them at the back. So if you fancy my spare set PM me and I'll take a pic of the setup for you.
Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert 2012, Cannondale CAAD5,
Marin Mount Vision (1997), Edinburgh Country tourer, 3 cats!
If you have wide angle canti's the straddle cable then you need high mechanical levergae levers (i.e standrd dual pivot brake levers won't work so well).
Don't blame your canti's there is something wrong witrh your set up that needs addressing.
I'm an engineer and I spent years trying to get mine to work better before I gave up and replaced them.
Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert 2012, Cannondale CAAD5,
Marin Mount Vision (1997), Edinburgh Country tourer, 3 cats!
I would not go down the V-brake and travel agent route. It is workable, but not very good.
Unixnerd I am also an engineer/physist now bike mechanic. So being an engineer has nothing to do with setting them up properly.
Lever mis matched with cantilever arms could be the issue, along with straddle cable height also pads could be issue. If a link cable is used instead of straddle wire there are 5 different length avaialble not that you can buy those easily or get a choice when buying your brakes. Chainging to a straddle cable and straddle cable hanger can solve this as you can set your straddle cable length to the height you want it set at.
Low profile canti's have high mechanical advantage I believe so need low mechanical advantage levers. Also they need a low straddle cable postion as when you pull the lever and the straddle cable rises the mechanical advantage plumits, hense the poor performance noted. Set the straddle cable low enough and performace should be accpetable but never brilliant. The best canti's in my opinion are wide profile ones (Mafec) as the mechanical advantage doe not drop as much when the lever is pulled.
As for long drop sidepulls if you need them for mudguard clearance you do not have much of a choice do you.
Bike Radar Strava Club
The Northern Ireland Thread
Are your levers and brakes a matching set. any photo's of your set up.
Lastly, you seem to be using pads with a plastic backing so only the centre of the pad is transmitting much force. Get some metal backed pads with interchangeable inserts. I have a spare pair you can have for a fiver inc. postage.
Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert 2012, Cannondale CAAD5,
Marin Mount Vision (1997), Edinburgh Country tourer, 3 cats!
1) replace that link wire with a traditional straddle cable and hanger. Your link wire is too long.
2) Set your straddle cable a lot lower. Set it below the 90 degrees between the brake arms and straddle wire that is often quoted as being the best.
3) ensure the canti arms are balanced that sittting symmetrically.
4) change the pads but only when everything is set up right. Koolstop work as do Swiss stop but I use Jagwire basics with O.K results.
It's all in the set up.
2013 Cannondale Caadx 1x10
2004 Giant TCR
So I've thrown the ... things in a corner and fitted these in 30mins and I now seem to have a good solid brake. I don't know whether it is the proper thing for the frame but they fit the bridge easy enough and feel fine. If the rain ever stops I will go out and test them. If they are not good enough, will have to try mini Vs. I will never put a larger tyre on the front and will not fit front panniers. The thought of having to deal with those cantis on tour is a nightmare.
They are actually quite easy to set up. Having a stand really helps though as the bike is at least stable.
Jim.