Worn, countersunk allen bolt removal

jordan_217
jordan_217 Posts: 2,580
edited June 2012 in Workshop
I'm not a biff and didn't over tighten!!!!

I've managed to completely wear the inner hex part of the allen bolt on my headset top cap. So instead of being hexagonal, it's now a lovely circle. It's a Token Ti countersunk bolt. Don't ask me how the hell I managed this, I was using a decent and fairly new, allen key and it wasn't overly tightened. I turned till I got initial bite/resistance and then just tried a *bit* more and spinny spinny, bye bye hexagon.

I've used the same allen key before and since without any issues whatsover and that includes much greater tightening force.

I can't get any purchase on it with pliers as it's countersunk. I've tried a the allen socket from my torque wrench and a Ritchey torque key and none of them will grip. No success with a larger allen key too. Also tried tapping in a flathead screwdriver but it's just grinding a larger circle, the bolt seems very soft!

Short of borrowing a dremmel and turning it into a phillips bolt what can I do to get it out? Sacrafice an allen key and use something like Araldite, maybe?

Any (sensible) advice would be appreciated.
“Training is like fighting with a gorilla. You don’t stop when you’re tired. You stop when the gorilla is tired.”

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    drill it out. you will not dremell it without cutting the top cap.

    new bolt time.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • jordan_217
    jordan_217 Posts: 2,580
    nicklouse wrote:
    drill it out. you will not dremell it without cutting the top cap.

    new bolt time.

    Thanks!

    I was hoping that wasn't the only option. I've got another bolt on the way and am in no rush to remove this one as I'm confident the headset fine as is.

    Is it worth trying to secure an allen key into the existing bolt first? I'm sure it won't need much turning force to get it out, it's just getting the purchase on the bolt.
    “Training is like fighting with a gorilla. You don’t stop when you’re tired. You stop when the gorilla is tired.”
  • Wheelspinner
    Wheelspinner Posts: 6,710
    Loctite? Medium strength on Allen key in head?
    Open One+ BMC TE29 Seven 622SL On One Scandal Cervelo RS
  • lochindaal
    lochindaal Posts: 475
    Use a flat bladed screwdriver and hammer it into the allan head. Screw it out and replace with a new one
  • snoopsmydogg
    snoopsmydogg Posts: 1,110
    get a torx bit slightly larger than the allen key and hammer it in, hopefully will have enough grip to remove it. will still be new bolt time but saves drilling
  • Barteos
    Barteos Posts: 657
    get a torx bit slightly larger than the allen key and hammer it in, hopefully will have enough grip to remove it. will still be new bolt time but saves drilling

    This.
    I have a collection of modded / grinded straight torx keys that can be nicely hammered into rounded hex bolt sockets. It works in 9/10 cases for me.
  • jordan_217
    jordan_217 Posts: 2,580
    Cheers for all the responses, will try the torx keys approach first.

    I have received the replacement bolt today. Upon inspection it appears that the hexagonal opening isn't really pronounced and looks susceptible to easy wear, in fact it looks more circular than hexagonal. I may source a different bolt rather than encounter the same issue down the line.

    Thanks again for the advice.
    “Training is like fighting with a gorilla. You don’t stop when you’re tired. You stop when the gorilla is tired.”
  • Smokin Joe
    Smokin Joe Posts: 2,706
    get a torx bit slightly larger than the allen key and hammer it in, hopefully will have enough grip to remove it. will still be new bolt time but saves drilling
    +2.

    Never fails.
  • You could try a stud extractor, especially as the 'hole' is already there in the shape of the worn out hex.

    Drilling it out could be a nightmare - start with a 2.3mm drill, hope it drills straight, then move to a 4 then a 5mm drill. Then tap the hole out and it *should* come good. However you risk either not drilling the hole straight or worse, snapping the drill bit off :shock: Been there, done that, it's not pretty.

    The torx bit sounds a go-er - I'd try that first, then a stud extractor, then drilling.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    You could try a stud extractor, especially as the 'hole' is already there in the shape of the worn out hex.

    Drilling it out could be a nightmare - start with a 2.3mm drill, hope it drills straight, then move to a 4 then a 5mm drill. Then tap the hole out and it *should* come good. However you risk either not drilling the hole straight or worse, snapping the drill bit off :shock: Been there, done that, it's not pretty.

    The torx bit sounds a go-er - I'd try that first, then a stud extractor, then drilling.

    A stud extractor is the pain as you would need to carefully drill it so that the toll will fit. But the small tools suck and will break.

    Drilling it out is a piece of piss 6mm and zzzz done. Head off . Cap off. Use fingers or pliers to unscrew the unstressed threaded bar.

    What. 2 mins max.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • ineedalager
    ineedalager Posts: 374
    We used to use a center punch and hammer to work them loose. Just make a big center punch hole hitting in an anticlockwise direction can shock them free and then once loose the Allen key again. Somtimes you can flatten the top of the bolt back down with a ball pane hammer to make the Allen key fit better.
  • crankycrank
    crankycrank Posts: 1,830
    Try loosening the stem clamp bolts on the steerer tube and twisting the stem anti-clockwise a little. May be just enough to break the bolt free and unscrew easier.
  • jordan_217
    jordan_217 Posts: 2,580
    An update on this - I managed to get the bolt out today by tapping in a torx bit and turning the bolt loose with some pliers. Job done.

    Thanks again for the tip.
    “Training is like fighting with a gorilla. You don’t stop when you’re tired. You stop when the gorilla is tired.”