Questions on brake adaptor and Morzine trip
Paul_iow
Posts: 110
I am off to Morzine in a few weeks and have a couple of questions :?
1. I want to change my front disc from 160 to 180, I have rock shok recon forks, is this the right adaptor. Type 3 for front and 4 if I decide to do the rear as well? I have Hayes stroker trail brakes
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_ ... cts_id=359
2. What spares should I take out with me?
3. What tyres should I fit for Morzine? I currently have panaracer fire xc pro, any good or should I change?
1. I want to change my front disc from 160 to 180, I have rock shok recon forks, is this the right adaptor. Type 3 for front and 4 if I decide to do the rear as well? I have Hayes stroker trail brakes
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_ ... cts_id=359
2. What spares should I take out with me?
3. What tyres should I fit for Morzine? I currently have panaracer fire xc pro, any good or should I change?
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Comments
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1. Well it depends if the forks are PM or IS mount. And the frame, oh and the brakes. More info please!
2. The usual + spare tyres, brake pads, rear mech hanger, possibly a rear mech, and a few spokes.
3. No idea! Someone else will know though!0 -
Forks and frame are IS mount. Brakes are Hayes stroker trail currently using 160mm discs
That's the same sort of list of spares I came up with so that's good0 -
Paul_iow wrote:Forks and frame are IS mount. Brakes are Hayes stroker trail currently using 160mm discs
That's the same sort of list of spares I came up with so that's good"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Thanks, after having a look at other retailers it seems quite a lot for not much gain. Will just buy new decent pads instead0
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Assuming your going to be riding the DH tracks, then change your tyre for Maxxis Minions or something along those lines.
A spare mech hanger is always worth taking as there not the easiest of things to get hold of.
Spare brake pads
Apart from that, take all the usual items. There's plenty of shops over there you can get bits from.
Before you go give your bike a good service as it will get a beating over there and make sure the brakes are in good working order.0 -
Paul_iow wrote:Thanks, after having a look at other retailers it seems quite a lot for not much gain. Will just buy new decent pads instead
Have a read and check."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
nicklouse wrote:Paul_iow wrote:Thanks, after having a look at other retailers it seems quite a lot for not much gain. Will just buy new decent pads instead
Have a read and check.
You are indeed correct. Having just gone outside to check it looks like frame and forks are IS mount but brakes are post mount. So the superstars adaptor in the link above will be fine?0 -
err check the front rotor size as it is very very rare to find post mount calipers on an IS fork with a 160 rotor. most are 180."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Front rotor is 160mm. I originally had juicy 3 brakes but swapped over to Hayes as didn't find them much good. I will post a photo this evening of both adapters/brakes to confirm what I have0
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Paul_iow wrote:Thanks, after having a look at other retailers it seems quite a lot for not much gain. Will just buy new decent pads instead
I'd say that a 180mm front rotor is the bare minimum for riding in the Alps - moving up from a 160 will make a noticable difference that will really help with control of the bike on long descents. No one I know rides with a 160 front.
As for tyres - are you doing XC routes or the DH routes? I always found the Fire Pros pinch flat too regulalry for aggresive riding but if you're just sticking to XC then they should be ok. If however you are looking to experience more aggresive riding on the PDS (some of the descents are long, fast and rocky), then look for a tougher, larger volume tyre. Highrollers in 2.3 guise are a good start. Minions are fine. If you get the dual ply versions you might find them cripplingly heavy so stick to single ply (but dual ply is more flat resistant). If you're really looking to experience the thrills of berms and the woodland DH, you could up the front to a 2.5, and if you're really really looking to dig in deep for those 25 footers+, then 2.5s all round0 -
Paul_iow wrote:Front rotor is 160mm. I originally had juicy 3 brakes but swapped over to Hayes as didn't find them much good. I will post a photo this evening of both adapters/brakes to confirm what I have
is the bike a Giant by any chance?"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Having moved out from near the Alps, and at least having big mountains to ride very local to me, 180mm minimum is definitely right. I have 203's front and back, and it was a necessity for me in the beginning having been a bit of a heavier rider. I've lost a lot of weight now, and can get away with 180s, but some trails leave me wanting more.
Considering the cost of buying a new mount and rotor, I would say go for it. You don't really need a fancy rotor, just a cheap 180 disc will do the job.0 -
nicklouse wrote:Paul_iow wrote:Front rotor is 160mm. I originally had juicy 3 brakes but swapped over to Hayes as didn't find them much good. I will post a photo this evening of both adapters/brakes to confirm what I have
is the bike a Giant by any chance?
Mainly going to be doing xc but would like to try anything else that is out there. I will keep the Fire pros on there and take a set of of something like high rollers in 2.3 for some of the more aggressive days.
As I am a "larger guy" and I am changing the, anyway, would it be worthwhile to put 203 on the front and 180 rear?0 -
I'm in the Alps and the Rockhopper has 180 upfront and a 160 on the back but it's screaming out for a 180 on the back too
Or I may even go 203/180 - there are obviously plenty of very long, steep & technical descents over here. Did a route the other day and by the bottom of the trail my back brake rotor was literally smoking :shock:
Btw - I used to have 160 front rotor with a PM caliper (Deore) and an IS fork (MX Comp)"Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 80 -
...oh and you wont find a set of brake pads over here for less than €20...you can get a four pack from SS for that!
Although I guess prices may be cheaper up north being close to Geneva and all that. I'm in the middle of nowhere down here! Although the general rule is - the higher you go the more expensive everything is"Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 80 -
Here are a few pics of both callipers and adaptors
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tis a rare adaptor that.
so you need an IS to PM 180 for the front. so a number 3 and get a few sets of pads."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
I think I may go 203 on the front and 180 on the back, being a "slightly larger" rider and if I am changing it anyway may as well go bigger and not regret it later. Will get some pads as well, but which type are best from Superstars, organic, kevlar or sintered?0
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"Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 80 -
Depends on conditions where you ride. Sintered are better for wet, gritty riding. Organic is good for dry trails and have better bite from cold but wear out quickly and kevlar pads are an inbetween, they last longer than organic.
On reflection, I should've just copied it from the superstar website!0 -
Thought it sounded familiar Think a nice 4 pack of organic pads may get added to my shopping list along with a couple of rotors
Thanks everyone0 -
I've been riding on their Organics all of last season and still on the same set now - although they're wearing a bit thin Will try the Kevlars next"Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 80 -
felix.london wrote:I've been riding on their Organics all of last season and still on the same set now - although they're wearing a bit thin Will try the Kevlars next
I got 4 sets of the kevlars last week and its a huge improvement over the standard pads on my tektros. The front brake bedded in real quick, but it was only today (3rd ride) that my rear brake started properly biting. No noticeable wear on the pads so far, not that i'd expect there to be, but I would've ordered sintered had they been in stock. I know you'll be using them in the conditions they were designed for though! Not this horrible weather we have at the moment. The red pads poking out of my brake look quite cool now too 8)0 -
Cheers for the info. Gonna get a 4 pack of Kevlars. I'm sure the red pads make you go faster too (but stop quicker :? )"Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 80 -
Just a quick tip - stay away from sintered pads if you're going to ride in the alps. Sintered pads heat up faster, making it more likely you'll cook your brakes on long descents.0