Hardtail for Natural Lakes riding . . .

Hi there,
After riding my 2008 Rockhopper for a while, I noticed that it had limitations (apart from the rider :oops:).
My riding buddy and I live in the NE and regularly try to ride in the lakes, on natural trails. He seems fine on his Enduro, the decents can be interestingly twitchy and rough on the 'hopper. :shock:
I have put tougher parts on it, but it has always been a little big for me(40mm stem and saddle fully forward on seatpost needed), and I was gently advised by forum members that I was trying to change it too much when I mentioned bigger forks/angle offset headcups etc.
Here are the specs:
http://www.specialized.com/gb/gb/bikes/ ... pper#specs
I have added/changed:
40mm stem - to try and sort out reach issues
Haven Alu bars
Hope evo/flow wheels
Hope mono minis
Superstar Nano flat pedals
Kenda nevegal stickE front 2.35/ Maxxis Ardent Exo Rear 2.25
I now have enough pennies saved that I can buy a frame that both fits properly and is more progressive.
I have my eye on both a Cotic BFe and a carbon 456.
http://www.cotic.co.uk/product/BFe
http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FROOCAR456- ... ls___18_in
If I bought one of these I would be looking to transfer most components over and look to get some decent forks on finance.
So after this long ramble the main questions are:
In your opinion would one of these frames be suitable for Lakes riding (and maybe Scotland too)?
I will not be riding proper full on downhill but I will be looking to ride down the biggest hills I can find - Helvellyn is next.
Would it be totally overkill to put something like a Fox 36/ RS Lyrik on? If so, other recommendations?
One further concern is that the BFe has an old style headtube and would limit my choice of fork.
I appreciate any advice given. I understand that many will recommend full sus but I think it would probably take another 2/3 years of saving.
Cheers Si
After riding my 2008 Rockhopper for a while, I noticed that it had limitations (apart from the rider :oops:).
My riding buddy and I live in the NE and regularly try to ride in the lakes, on natural trails. He seems fine on his Enduro, the decents can be interestingly twitchy and rough on the 'hopper. :shock:
I have put tougher parts on it, but it has always been a little big for me(40mm stem and saddle fully forward on seatpost needed), and I was gently advised by forum members that I was trying to change it too much when I mentioned bigger forks/angle offset headcups etc.
Here are the specs:
http://www.specialized.com/gb/gb/bikes/ ... pper#specs
I have added/changed:
40mm stem - to try and sort out reach issues
Haven Alu bars
Hope evo/flow wheels
Hope mono minis
Superstar Nano flat pedals
Kenda nevegal stickE front 2.35/ Maxxis Ardent Exo Rear 2.25
I now have enough pennies saved that I can buy a frame that both fits properly and is more progressive.
I have my eye on both a Cotic BFe and a carbon 456.
http://www.cotic.co.uk/product/BFe
http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FROOCAR456- ... ls___18_in
If I bought one of these I would be looking to transfer most components over and look to get some decent forks on finance.
So after this long ramble the main questions are:
In your opinion would one of these frames be suitable for Lakes riding (and maybe Scotland too)?
I will not be riding proper full on downhill but I will be looking to ride down the biggest hills I can find - Helvellyn is next.
Would it be totally overkill to put something like a Fox 36/ RS Lyrik on? If so, other recommendations?
One further concern is that the BFe has an old style headtube and would limit my choice of fork.
I appreciate any advice given. I understand that many will recommend full sus but I think it would probably take another 2/3 years of saving.
Cheers Si
Specialized Rockhopper
Bike is still better than the rider . . .
Bike is still better than the rider . . .
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This discussion has been closed.
Posts
Orange Crush 650b 2014
BFe now has a 44mm headtube (and comes in an awesome green), so any steerer will work. Are you thinking about a 36/Lyrik for stiffness or extra travel? Personally I'd stick with around 140-150mm. You can always reduce a bigger fork or wait for next years 34mm stanchion forks (X-Fusion and Fox), which might be the best of both worlds.
Evil Sovereign
Santa Cruz Heckler (gone)
On One Inbred (gone)
Ragley Mmmbop (gone)
I wouldn't worry about the headtube size. I don't know of any forks that aren't available in that size, doesn't mean there aren't any though.
Cube LTD 29er
Glentress Trailfairies
I like the idea of the Bfe with the 44mm headtube, been googling for pictures but I can't find anything
The forks would hopefully be a one off purchase, something that could be transferred if a full sus ever became viable. I think I prefer the idea of a stiffer fork that I can reduce in travel, over a flexier one - I know that 150mm Foxs seem to be quite noodly.
Would you agree that any of these should be able to handle the lakes/Scotland then? I would like to be able to take my bike down the red run at Fort Bill with no worries at the back of my mind . . .
Bike is still better than the rider . . .
VOODOO CANZO
Come and see me at https://www.facebook.com/biketyke/
The only thing that concerns me is the recent negative review it received:
http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/categ ... 9-12-46042
The previous review was much better:
http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/ ... -pro-42704
Any opinions?
Bike is still better than the rider . . .
Cube LTD 29er
Glentress Trailfairies
What forks were you and your mate riding on?
Bike is still better than the rider . . .
Cube LTD 29er
Glentress Trailfairies
people say that they don't want heavy gear on their bikes - looking at the weight of a 36, it is about the weight of the coil sprung tora on my hopper :shock:
Bike is still better than the rider . . .
Winter
Racey
Special Favourite
If in doubt, blame Wiggle.
New bfe.
Cotic bfe
I went to bed last night thinking 456c, now my heart says something else . .
On the subject of forks though - has anyone had experience of both travel adjust systems and their fixed counterparts. in your opinion is it best to have one fork length and deal with it in all situations or does talas/dual position genuinely offer a good option?
Bike is still better than the rider . . .
Best major upgrades in order;
#1 - 120mm Reba RL
#2 - Reverb dropper post
#3 - ArchEX rims with DH Trizoid/Switch Evo hubs
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 8
Bang on for a budget build!! old skool looking hardtail.... top notch shox!! ........
Orange Crush 650b 2014
VOODOO CANZO
Come and see me at https://www.facebook.com/biketyke/
It has a nice slack head angle to make things easier when heading down steep technical stuff but also a long top tube and relatively low front end to help keep the front end down when climbing.
I haven't taken it on any epic rides yet but I've ridden round on it for 3/4 hours rides and don't feel the stiffness is an issue.
If you're on a tight budget then a standard 456 will be OK but I find it very heavy. If you can afford more then go for a the carbon version. Its stupidly light for the amount of abuse it can handle.
Mines got 150mm fixed travel revs, best way to go and handles anything you chuck at it.
This is it, although has a reverb now. To add, it is also very comfy, not skittish or harsh at all, it really feels like you have some "bounce" on the back end when you need it. My mate also said the same thing about it and he normally rides a FS too.
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That weight difference alone could balance out a big,stiff fork . . . .
However I am still in 2 minds, so I have emailed Cotic for details of the new version.
Bike is still better than the rider . . .
I sort of got excited in the classifieds and bought this :
viewtopic.php?f=40050&t=12859155
I now need to sort out some forks for it - I am starting a new thread, any advice appreciated
Bike is still better than the rider . . .