What to do when receiving a new bike

compo
compo Posts: 1,370
edited June 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
I am imminently ordering my new Canyon Nerve AM 6.0.

However, I am wondering what to do when I get it, aside from the obvious building up, so have a couple of questions.

1) Do I need, or is it best to, put helicopter tape or something similar on the frame? Would I also want to put special patches to prevent cable rub? If so, where is the best place to get said tape?

2) Do I need to grease the seatpost and pedal axles before I stick them on? If so, what type of grease should I get, and is this done with a brush?

Cheers guys

Comments

  • oxocube1
    oxocube1 Posts: 651
    Yes you should grease both. A teflon based grease is good for both jobs and you don't really need to apply with a brush, for the seat post just spread a decent layer around the inside of the seat tube and dip the seatpost in and out a few times to spread the grease. However you probably should not grease the post if its carbon because that could void your warranty. With the pedals again just spread some on the axel and screw them in.

    Tape is a good idea for the frame if you want to keep it in good condition for resale etc. however the white patches are not so good because they get dirty around the edges and look bad after a few rides. I personally don't bother with patches or tape though.

    If you really want to preserve graphics/paint work you could also cut out a section of innertube and slide it over each crank arm before putting the pedals on to prevent heel rub. It works really well and looks pretty good too.
  • oodboo
    oodboo Posts: 2,171
    First think I do is take the bell and reflectors off. For frame protection I like the cable tie method, stop rubbing by stopping the cable moving.
    I love horses, best of all the animals. I love horses, they're my friends.

    Strava
  • mayonaise
    mayonaise Posts: 159
    Just as a note, my Canyon came with cable rub patches pre-stuck on. They're only thin clear plastic though so can't see them lasting too long.
  • bennett_346
    bennett_346 Posts: 5,029
    Just to play devils advocate i've never greased a seatpost in 5 years and never ran into a problem yet.
  • felix.london
    felix.london Posts: 4,067
    Just to play devils advocate i've never greased a seatpost in 5 years and never ran into a problem yet.

    +1. Have never greased a seatpost and never had a problem either
    "Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes

    Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build

    Trek Session 8
  • Uli
    Uli Posts: 190
    Just to play devils advocate i've never greased a seatpost in 5 years and never ran into a problem yet.

    +1. Have never greased a seatpost and never had a problem either
    With Alloy frames/ seatposts it may be OK, but with old steel frames seatpost and inner frame could rust and stuck together.
  • felix.london
    felix.london Posts: 4,067
    I don't believe the Canyon Nerve AM is steel :wink:
    "Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes

    Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build

    Trek Session 8
  • Uli
    Uli Posts: 190
    You are correct in your beliefs :) . I was just saying in general that idea of grease on a seatpost is coming from dark ages of steel frames sometimes with huge quality differences.
  • oodboo
    oodboo Posts: 2,171
    You've got to grease your shaft. I've fallen fowl of that one but with some effort I managed to pull it out. That was with an alloy frame and seat post.
    I love horses, best of all the animals. I love horses, they're my friends.

    Strava
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    Dont use normal grease on the pedals use copper grease.

    As for seat posts never grease them either, I pull post out regulaly wipe it clean spray some GT85 or similar on it slide post in and out a couple of times wipe it again to get any muck off and put it back in and clamp up. Never had a seatpost seize so far. If its a steel frame I used to put copper grease on the post but alu never needed to it just becomes a grinding paste when the mud gets in.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • Uli
    Uli Posts: 190
    Alloy doesn't really rust so it should not seize. Grease may keep water and debris away from inside of your frame.
  • Plyphon
    Plyphon Posts: 433
    oodboo wrote:
    You've got to grease your shaft. I've fallen fowl of that one but with some effort I managed to pull it out.


    Know that feel bro.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Uli wrote:
    Alloy doesn't really rust so it should not seize.
    Alooy doesn't rust, full stop, only steel does that, alluminium alloys oxidies though and in a steel frame that can cause real issues, rarely in alumium frames though.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • lyonsdown
    lyonsdown Posts: 3
    You've got to grease your shaft. I've fallen fowl of that one but with some effort I managed to pull it out.g.gif
  • compo
    compo Posts: 1,370
    I will bear that in mind when greasing my shaft. I think i will leave it, givent the responses, but if it gets stiff, slather some on
  • Not sure if you can buy these, but my rockrider came with small rubber tubes to fit over the cables where rubbing would occur. They are great little things and strongly recommend them if you cant get them. Saves putting tape everywhere...