Core 20.......what to upgrade first....please help
Shylock
Posts: 98
Okay so I bought a Genesis Core 20 as my first real serious bike and have clocked up around 100 miles of xc and trail riding on thee South Downs.
So now starting to look at upgrades....alot of people change the bars and stem.......how does this effect the handling and what would people recommend?
Looking at the spec what would people upgrade in which order? I am trying to learn all the spec levels but don't want to spend money on the wrong gear.
Standard spec below:
Frame:6061 Double Butted AluminiumFork:Rockshox Tora K 120mm travelFront Derailleur:Shimano AlivioRear Derailleur:Shimano Deore ShadowNumber of Gears:27Shifters:Shimano AlivioChainset:Shimano Alivio OctalinkChainrings:44/32/22Bottom Bracket:Shimano OctalinkCassette:CS-HG30-9 11-32 toothChain:ShimanoPedals:Shimano PD-M505 cliplessFront Brake:Shimano BR-M445 with 160mm rotorsRear Brake:Shimano BR-M445 with 160mm rotorsBrake Levers:Shimano BL-M445Handlebars:Genesis 6061 / 30mm riseStem:Genesis OS 6061 / 31.8mm clampHeadset:FSA AheadsetGrips:Kraton Rubber file patternRims:Alex DP-17 32HFront Hub:Shimano RM-65 Centre LockRear Hub:Shimano RM-65 Centre LockSpokes:Stainless steelFront Tyre:Continental Mountain King 2.2Rear Tyre:Continental Mountain King 2.2Saddle:Genesis MTN2 with Cr-Mo railsSeatpost:Genesis 6061 / 400mm / 27.2mm
So now starting to look at upgrades....alot of people change the bars and stem.......how does this effect the handling and what would people recommend?
Looking at the spec what would people upgrade in which order? I am trying to learn all the spec levels but don't want to spend money on the wrong gear.
Standard spec below:
Frame:6061 Double Butted AluminiumFork:Rockshox Tora K 120mm travelFront Derailleur:Shimano AlivioRear Derailleur:Shimano Deore ShadowNumber of Gears:27Shifters:Shimano AlivioChainset:Shimano Alivio OctalinkChainrings:44/32/22Bottom Bracket:Shimano OctalinkCassette:CS-HG30-9 11-32 toothChain:ShimanoPedals:Shimano PD-M505 cliplessFront Brake:Shimano BR-M445 with 160mm rotorsRear Brake:Shimano BR-M445 with 160mm rotorsBrake Levers:Shimano BL-M445Handlebars:Genesis 6061 / 30mm riseStem:Genesis OS 6061 / 31.8mm clampHeadset:FSA AheadsetGrips:Kraton Rubber file patternRims:Alex DP-17 32HFront Hub:Shimano RM-65 Centre LockRear Hub:Shimano RM-65 Centre LockSpokes:Stainless steelFront Tyre:Continental Mountain King 2.2Rear Tyre:Continental Mountain King 2.2Saddle:Genesis MTN2 with Cr-Mo railsSeatpost:Genesis 6061 / 400mm / 27.2mm
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Comments
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Is there anything wrong with the bike? What do you want to achieve?0
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Don't spend anything much yet - upgrade the contact points first (saddle, grips, pedals) then just ride it and see if anything needs upgrading later.2011 Carrera Fury
Earn cashback at CRC, Wiggle, Evans, Rutland, Hargroves, Halfords, and more at Quidco0 -
waby1234 wrote:Don't spend anything much yet - upgrade the contact points first (saddle, grips, pedals) then just ride it and see if anything needs upgrading later.
Any particular reason why he should upgrade the contact points? Do you know something that he doesn't? Do you feel his pain?
In regards to the actual question, what are you looking to achieve from an upgrade? Is it comfort, is it weight, is it just to look blingy?
Don't just upgrade because you feel you have too, I only upgraded various parts on my bike because either A. they broke or B. they saved me a ton of weight.0 -
Yes tyres seem to be a little hairy in the wet, especially the rear which seems to get to slip all over the place.
The gears feel a little clunky, not as responsive as I would like.
What I am asking is how/what can I do to improve/adjust the handling? Not fussed about bling as most of the time it is covered in mud or in my shed.0 -
Sounds like you'll need to adjust your gears - read up on parktools. You still haven't told us what's wrong. It it too slow, unresponsive etc ... ?0
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Bet there is nothing wrong...you've just caught the bug.
You are already thinking about your N+1, but can't justify it because your Core is still relatively new.
I would wait until something breaks before replacing anything.2007 Felt Q720 (the ratbike)
2012 Cube Ltd SL (the hardtail XC 26er)
2014 Lapierre Zesty TR 329 (the full-sus 29er)0 -
Briggo wrote:waby1234 wrote:Don't spend anything much yet - upgrade the contact points first (saddle, grips, pedals) then just ride it and see if anything needs upgrading later.
Any particular reason why he should upgrade the contact points? Do you know something that he doesn't? Do you feel his pain?
In regards to the actual question, what are you looking to achieve from an upgrade? Is it comfort, is it weight, is it just to look blingy?
Don't just upgrade because you feel you have too, I only upgraded various parts on my bike because either A. they broke or B. they saved me a ton of weight.
I didn't say upgrade now.... I said upgrade first2011 Carrera Fury
Earn cashback at CRC, Wiggle, Evans, Rutland, Hargroves, Halfords, and more at Quidco0 -
That still doesnt answer the question, why would he want to upgrade those first?
Do you know that theres something wrong with the current saddle, pedals or grip? There is no set order to where you should upgrade things, it all depends on what you're trying to achieve.
To fix broken things
To save weight
To look prettier
To be more burly
To make it more comfortable
If he wants to make it more burly for example why would he want to change the saddle and pedals it may not help at all.0 -
The trouble is I don't know what is wrong, in fact nothing is wrong.
But I am used to playing with things (cars) and knowing how to optimise handling to my style of riding. So like changing geometry on a car or ruding un sprung weight of differential settings all dramatically influence handling. What are the bike equivalents?
I am running SPD pedals so don't feel the need to change these and changing the grips seem pointless.
Mainly I ride XC and trails with a few drops.0 -
Briggo the point is that a) contact points generally wear our first, b) are relatively inexpensive compared to other components c) can save weIght if that's the objective and d) can completely change the feel of the bike. That is all!
You are correct in that it depends on the OPs objectives but that would be my advice hence why I wrote it!2011 Carrera Fury
Earn cashback at CRC, Wiggle, Evans, Rutland, Hargroves, Halfords, and more at Quidco0 -
waby1234 wrote:Briggo the point is that a) contact points generally wear our first, b) are relatively inexpensive compared to other components c) can save weIght if that's the objective and d) can completely change the feel of the bike. That is all!
You are correct in that it depends on the OPs objectives but that would be my advice hence why I wrote it!
A. Thats right, but then thats just replacing it when it needs to be replaced, like he'll need to replace things like chains and cassettes too they wear out just as quick potentially.
B. Regardless of whether they're inexpensive or not, theres no point wasting even £5 if its not needed.
C. Bang for buck there are better ways of saving weight such as tyres or more effective ways i.e. wheels/forks.
Back to the OP, if you want to change handling it's mainly effected by the frames geometry and suspension travel size itself but stem and bar length can play a small part with how it feels to you and how you control it, but thats also more about comfort.0 -
The trouble is I don't know what is wrong, in fact nothing is wrong.
Leave it alone and ride it some more. Sounds like you got a good bike for what you want to do, or else you should have spent more to start,0 -
Shylock wrote:The trouble is I don't know what is wrong, in fact nothing is wrong.
has everyone gone mad??!!"Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 80 -
There seems to be a lot of it going around.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
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Parktools0 -
felix.london wrote:Shylock wrote:The trouble is I don't know what is wrong, in fact nothing is wrong.
has everyone gone mad??!!
No I have not gone mad. I bought this bike. Because I knew it was a good frame to start upgrading.
All I want to know is where are the biggest gains and where are the weaker points in the spec.
I think I have decided on new wheels and tyres as the stock mountain kings are poor.
Have also dropped the headset down which has helped my positioning on the bars.0 -
There are no weak points, it is a well balanced bike - whoever specced it has done a good job.
But if you feel the tyres are letting you down then try something else.
Unless you plan to spend £250 on wheels I'd leave them be.0 -
Was looking at Stan Flows with Hope 2 hubs.0
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Which will not lighter than what you have really. Stronger maybe - how much do you weigh?0
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Around 8 1/2 stone. So I will not feel much advantage with the rims? Thanks for pointing that out.0
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They are DH 'lite' rims, or for heavier riders, and you certainly aren't any of those! I'd be looking at the Crest rims that they do.0
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You'd also need new rotors or adapters. But the question is still why?I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
Sounds like I will leave it well alone for a while then and just focus on technique and fitness.0