X9 to slx?

Sambuca
Sambuca Posts: 116
edited June 2012 in MTB general
Having massive chain drop issues on my whyte 146s running the standard SRAM x9 2x10 set up, it's been back for adjustment etc but still massive probs dropping the chain off the top of the bigger ring. Fairly sure mrp/stinger chain devices won't work as they only retain it at the bottom. Thinking of changing to slx double and bash with a stinger but
as its a bb30 will need reducer bearings to bring it down to slx size but will there be any spacing issues or anything I haven't thought of? Only had bike for 7 weeks but Evans are telling me I have no claim for warranty and must be riding in wrong gears!
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Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    How is the chain coming off? Of the out side? Mech top stop too far out.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
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  • Sambuca
    Sambuca Posts: 116
    It is coming off the outside of the bigger ring at the top but even with the stop set so the mech is slightly inward and is rubbing on the chain when running smaller cogs on the back it still comes off over rough stuff, lbs who are very good had a go at setting it up and still the same result....
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    Can't belive it s set correctly.

    Pics of the set up? Side on.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
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  • paul.skibum
    paul.skibum Posts: 4,068
    sounds like mech is too high rather than too outboard or not straight?
    Closet jockey wheel pimp whore.
  • Sambuca
    Sambuca Posts: 116
    The mechs set so the teeth are just a hairs width below it- it does sound strange but I've seen some other guys on here with the same problem on the 146 and more running SRAM 2x10 on other bikes. Can't do pics at the moment as I've left it at Evans to sort something as its unrideable on rough terrain. It's appalling the way they have dealt with this but that's for another time. Just want to get out and ride it.....
  • RevellRider
    RevellRider Posts: 1,794
    I agree with Nick on this, it can't be set up correctly if it's dropping from the top
  • Sambuca
    Sambuca Posts: 116
    It's been set up by two different shops so it's seems to have exhausted that option, it's has come off both sides and I'm not sure if the rear mech not pulling tight enough (spring?) they set it up on the stand fine but when you ride it either won't change into the big ring but seems to stay on or if it's set so it changes to the big ring then it falls off over any rough stuff...
  • danlightbulb
    danlightbulb Posts: 701
    chain too long?
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    Sambuca wrote:
    It's been set up by two different shops so it's seems to have exhausted that option, it's has come off both sides and I'm not sure if the rear mech not pulling tight enough (spring?) they set it up on the stand fine but when you ride it either won't change into the big ring but seems to stay on or if it's set so it changes to the big ring then it falls off over any rough stuff...
    Rear mech won't affect the chain dropping from the top of the chainrings - you are applying tension between chainset and cassette.

    Something is set up wrong. Do you really believe that all X9 setups drop the chain?
  • getonyourbike
    getonyourbike Posts: 2,648
    chain too long?
    that or maybe try running one of the Bionicon chain devices, which attach to the chainstay.
  • RevellRider
    RevellRider Posts: 1,794
    The 146 doesn't have a chainstay for it to attach to. The OP would need something like a MRP 2x Chainguide

    It's not an issue I've heard with either Whyte full suspension bikes or 2x10 set-ups, because even as the suspension compresses, the front mech should still guide the chain along the ring.
  • Sambuca
    Sambuca Posts: 116
    http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic ... 46s/page/3
    It's not an isolated problem but an mrp may work, it's just expensive to take a chance on one if it dosent do the job....
  • DodgeT
    DodgeT Posts: 2,255
    Surely cheaper than changing to SLX and stinger in case that doesn't solve your problem either?

    And if it does't, just use the MRP with the SLX..
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    Can you not fit a bashguard to the x9 chainset? OR is it impossible on a double specific?
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • Thewaylander
    Thewaylander Posts: 8,594
    bails87 wrote:
    Can you not fit a bashguard to the x9 chainset? OR is it impossible on a double specific?

    I believe there is no outer mount so its a no go, bit of a pain really :s
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    also no bash with the correct BCDs yet.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Unless the chainring is moving sideways this can ONLY be a front mech issue, so if you want to change that you can go SLX on that only.......

    Not familiar with the white, but assume the mech location is fixed relative to the BB
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • b45her
    b45her Posts: 147
    go 1 x 10 with a proper chain device , best thing i ever did to my bike .
    ribble sportive for the black stuff

    Canyon Strive AL 8.0 for the brown and green stuff.
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Until you see a hill and your legs are gone.....
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Chain guide has turned my X0 2x10 front mech from an annoying clunking mech that drops off top and bottom occasionally, to buttery smooth shifting and no drop (plus reducing noise from chain and rear mech bounce over bumps).

    So good I'm no longer thinking about going 1x10 on the AM bike, which gives me more options for those stupidly steep climbs (got 1x10 on the hard tail but I don't do epics much on that and it's lighter being carbon so compensates for the extra effort required).

    That's a SRAM/Truvativ X-Guide though (MRP basically). Not the cheapest of options ;). Still, sure any guide will do. Seems key with mine is it's keeping the chain snug around the rings.

    Has been a number of reports of X9/X0 10 speed issues with the rear mech spring being a bit slack but then I'd read they may have fixed that. Not sure which I've got, but X0 on the Nomad seems slack generally compared to the X9 on the 456 though the latter I put down to being 1x10 and I used a short cage.
  • b45her
    b45her Posts: 147
    i run 33 ring with a 12 - 36 cassette and never need any lower than that .
    once your legs and more immportantly your mind gets used to the fact there is no bailout ring you'd be amazed what you can get up .
    ribble sportive for the black stuff

    Canyon Strive AL 8.0 for the brown and green stuff.
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    b45her wrote:
    i run 33 ring with a 12 - 36 cassette and never need any lower than that .
    once your legs and more immportantly your mind gets used to the fact there is no bailout ring you'd be amazed what you can get up .
    It depends hugely on where you live / ride.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Indeed. The 1x10 on the hard tail (34t + 12-36) is fine round here. Even our "huge" hills in Surrey are fine (though lighter of my bikes so bit easier). I'd be swearing a lot if I did the climb at Cwmcarn on it though. Can still do it of course.

    That's why I'm happy to keep the 2x10 on the big bike so I still have energy left to enjoy the descents. It's what it came with anyway and being X0 wasn't keen to bin the 2x10 though tempted due to the chain slap and drop issues, but a guide has sorted all that out. If I did far more DH than anything else I'd probably go 1x10 though. Though I do like a bit of DH and much prefer the descents on any trail but most places unless there's an uplift, I need to get up.
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    Same here. I prefer descents, and my bike is set up mainly for descending. However, I'm not averse to climbing, and some climbs round here really do need a granny ring.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Same here. I prefer descents, and my bike is set up mainly for descending. However, I'm not averse to climbing, and some climbs round here really do need a granny ring.
    Or if you have old tired legs.
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  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    Absolutely.
  • b45her
    b45her Posts: 147
    b45her wrote:
    i run 33 ring with a 12 - 36 cassette and never need any lower than that .
    once your legs and more immportantly your mind gets used to the fact there is no bailout ring you'd be amazed what you can get up .
    It depends hugely on where you live / ride.

    i live in the south wales valleys so no shortage of mountains where i ride .
    ribble sportive for the black stuff

    Canyon Strive AL 8.0 for the brown and green stuff.
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    Still depends on where you live/ride.
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Lucky SRAM are sorting this with xx11 or whatever. 9-42 rear cogs with 11 of them.
  • Did you buy it online?

    I'd take a trip to one of the Evans stores and demand they sort it out, you bought it and its not fit for purpose. If the forks fell out everytime the front wheel left the ground they'd fix it pretty quick.
    “Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe.”

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