chainring peg spanner - do you need it?

starbuck
starbuck Posts: 256
edited June 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
I've read that to change your chainrings, you need an allen key and a chainring peg spanner to hold the other side of the bolt when you undo it.

Question is - do you really need it?
Is it used when undoing and doing up the bolts, or only when undoing it?

What can I use instead or is it worth getting one of these?

Comments

  • warpcow
    warpcow Posts: 1,448
    Need? No. But it does make everything much easier, and the basic ones are cheap. You can usually get away with a flat-blade screwdriver if you're lucky. And yes, you use it for tightening and untightening.
  • benpinnick
    benpinnick Posts: 4,148
    Use a 20p piece. Works much better.
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Mine have got allens both sides. Much better.
  • ricardo_smooth
    ricardo_smooth Posts: 1,281
    I find it much easier to use the proper tool, it's only a few quid as well tbh
  • gezebo
    gezebo Posts: 364
    Probably not, tool costs less than a fiver though.

    There are all sorts of combinations of head types from Torx, Allen key, sloted... As long as you've got the right tool for one side the other does not take much to hold it in place to tighten.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Never used one. Flat bladed screwdriver, coin, etc. Correct tools are fine in some cases but there's zero need to spend more money on a tool that duplicates what you most likely already have plenty of in this case.
  • WhipIt
    WhipIt Posts: 52
    I used a swiss army knife screwdriver once and it was a pain (successful though!)

    Paid £4 for a (park) tool from crc with free delivery, used last night, much better and I got dramatically more torque. Recommended!
  • starbuck
    starbuck Posts: 256
    thanks for the suggestions guys. I bought the park one from my LBS and (weather permitting), change them at the weekend.
  • benpinnick
    benpinnick Posts: 4,148
    Once you have tried the park one, try a 20p coin. You might have paid for a proper one, but I swear a 20p is better at the job :o
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I had one that was seized, 20p wouldn't fit, bought proper tool.

    Now use Truvativ bolts that are dual Allen key and by far the best solution!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • bennett_346
    bennett_346 Posts: 5,029
    Now use Truvativ bolts that are dual Allen key and by far the best solution!
    This entirely.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Raceface fancy bolts, cheap stock bolts - all have been easy as anything. Just need anything that fits the slot that you can get a good grip on, wedge it in, spin the allen. Screwdriver, 20p, knife, any thin and long chunk of metal (blanking plates from a desktop PC work :D). Really no need for a special tool at all.

    If they're seized, probably were put on way too tight in the first place.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Oxide (rust) had seized some expensive (but cheap) raceface bolts......always used 20p or old screwdriver until I tried to get them off.....stick to cheap Truvativ alloy off an old Carrera Banshee now!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.