Fat blokes and wheels

boogi11

Hi, I just want some re assurance that I have not screwed up . I'm 15st but fit, I can swim a mile, bike easily, run a few miles no problem etc.... I have just purchased a bianchi via nirone xenon 2012. I have just noticed that it has 28spoke wheels . I am far from fat, but I'm packing a bit extra around the mid rift, but solid everywhere else.
I am not planning to bunny hop this bike, but the roads round here in spalding are ok in the main , but the back roads I am planning to bike on are ok but have had a hard life.
So, is my fat ass going to bend the wheels?

team47b

Most are ok up to 100kg, just increase tyre pressure to suit your weight.

info at the foot of this page may help calculate...

http://www.ctc.org.uk/DesktopDefault.aspx?TabID=3802

rolf_f

What I would say is that a mate of mine has a Bianchi Via Nirone. It's about 3 years old now so the wheels maybe different. He's not particularly heavy but when he comes to visit, he rides over with a pretty big back pack for a weekend visit. I still don't reckon the total weight of him and the pack is huge but he's broken a spoke on at least two occasions when visiting.

Millerman007

I'm at 122 kilos (trying to work my way down that set of numbers ) i use fast forward F4R's and they are fine with my weight and less spokes than you mention ,i also had Mavic Arksium race wheels and they were ok but had to straighten the front when every so often

Rockhopper

I'm heavier than that and I ride the same bike with no issues.

ianbar

i don't have same bike but at 16st don't tend to have issues, just avoid pot holes etc which you should do regardless and should be fine

lostboysaint

Rockhopper wrote:

I'm heavier than that and I ride the same bike with no issues.

I was heavier than that when I started again (115kg) and dismissed the Nirone because it had the stiffness of a wet noodle.

At 95kg (which is about where you are now) you shouldn't have too many issues. I ride Fulcrum Racing 5s which have a lesser spoke count and they are fine.

charliew87

I've got a Bianchi Via Nirone 7 and weight around 90-95kg. The rear wheel went inexplicably out of shape, literally like an egg, after around 400 miles.

Good news is that (after 2 months) Bianchi have decided it was covered under warranty and they've sent me a new one.

The bloke in the shop I got the bike from was of the opinion that Bianchi wheels look amazing, but are utter s**e. I'm tempted to agree with him!

53twelve

All bike parts have to pass EN approval tests - a lot of which involve a maximum rider weight, except wheels!! Wheels are tested by applying a 250N force (25kg+/-) against the rim between spokes, and inline with the spokes. Rims only seem to have to have a wear warning marker.

There doesn't seem to be any mention of rider weight (unlike carbon seat posts for example that must be able to support a 120kg rider).

As others have mentioned, 28spokes shouldn't be an issue for you - a "standard" wheel is usually only 32 spokes so not much difference.

Donie75

If you're going to buy a new wheelset then you should really look at handbuilt wheels. I'm north of 120kg and I have a set of Shimano Ultegra hubs built up on 36 spoke Mavic Open Pro rims. The are fantastic wheels and they seem to be bombproof. You can get them built up on 105 or tiagra hubs to save a few quid but they are well worth the money.
I paid around £200 for mine and I will only buy these wheels in future.
You would probably be fine with 32 spoke.

Cornishman1970

I am in the same position as the OP in regards to my weight and what the bike can actually handle. I have recently taken ownership of a Boardman Road Team, with mavic aksium wheels. My weight is currently at 240 pounds, and my objective is to get it going down in the other directions. Is there any other members of the forum who has the same bike as myself, or wheels and can please provide me with some advice. Many thanks in advance.

giropaul

I think that Donie75 makes a good point.

It's only recently that "keen" (for want of a better term) cyclists have bought complete bikes, a bit like buying a car say.

Previously we would have bought a frame, and either built it up with our chosen wheels and parts, or got a LBS to do it.

My point is, that when buying a complete package, there are bound to be some ideal bits, and some less than ideal. Back in the days I was describing it was usual to have "best" wheels and "training" wheels. There's no reason not to do the same now. Keep the lighter wheels for best, and have something bomb-proof for everyday.

I am well over the weights mentioned so far. I do own, and have ridden for events, light wheels; with no ill effects. However, for day to day riding I use hand built 32 or 36 spoked wheels, and almost never have a problem.

There's also something about riding smoothly and with regard to the road. Having ridden in Belgium and elsewhere picking a line comes as second nature, but it's a skill worth developing. Equally, hurling the bike around, and riding every mile as if it's a final km isn't going to make wheels last.

Millerman007

Cornishman1970 wrote:

I am in the same position as the OP in regards to my weight and what the bike can actually handle. I have recently taken ownership of a Boardman Road Team, with mavic aksium wheels. My weight is currently at 240 pounds, and my objective is to get it going down in the other directions. Is there any other members of the forum who has the same bike as myself, or wheels and can please provide me with some advice. Many thanks in advance.

pm sent

essjaydee

Donie75 wrote:

If you're going to buy a new wheelset then you should really look at handbuilt wheels. I'm north of 120kg and I have a set of Shimano Ultegra hubs built up on 36 spoke Mavic Open Pro rims. The are fantastic wheels and they seem to be bombproof. You can get them built up on 105 or tiagra hubs to save a few quid but they are well worth the money.

I have a Boarman road race with Mavic CXP22 rims on formula hubs. I'm just shy of 16 stone. Had a spoke break on the rear wheel a while ago, and just had to replace the cones and bearings on the rear wheel.
I'm sourcing a new rear wheel, as the hubs aren't brilliant and I want long service intervals with a strong wheel. Having just had a good chat with a local wheel builder, I'm going for a Hope Pro 3, 36 hole rear hub, with Mavic Open Pro rim and double butted spokes. Should be a pretty bomb proof wheel, which is exactly what I want, and easy to service the hubs should they ever need it 8)

Monty Dog

Most pre-built bikes are built to a price-point and therefore manufacturers seek to cut corners in areas the unwary consumers are unlikely to notice - one particular area is the use of machine-built wheels using relatively low-end parts. Very often, spoke tension is insufficient to provide long-term durability, particularly for heavier riders. I would recommend that you get a competent wheelbuilder to look at your wheels to ensure that spoke tension is even and sufficient for the intended use. You'll also do yourself a big favour by running the widest tyres your frame and forks will safely accommodate e.g. 25mm - the bigger air pocket increases comfort whilst reducing the chance of impact punctures with no reduction in performance. Finally, don't expect the wheels to last forever or require zero maintenance and in time it may be worthwhile to invest in some better quality wheels as you seek to get more from your riding.

notlongnow

Wheels do seem to be the area that Is sacrificed by most bikes I have a Cannondale Synapse tiagra 2011 and had problems with the 32 spoke rims that came with the bike after 200 miles or so,After a complaint to Cannondale they sent me some Shimano 501 wheels as a replacement I know there budget wheels and despite being 20 spokes less they are still true after 500+ miles and feel much more solid than the previous maddux drx 4000's that came with the bike I have confidence In my bike again.