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bb30 short bearing life

Chris65Chris65 Posts: 41
edited June 2012 in Workshop
I have a Cannondale six which has a BB30 bottom bracket.
Last year it started to knock. The LBS fixed this by applying some Locktight which seemed to work for all last summer.
The bike was stored for the winter. This year I brought it out and on its third run out the BB30 developed a knock/grinding. LBS diagnosed this as defective bearings - I agreed. These have now been replaced.
The bike has only done about 3000 miles.

Has anyone else had this problem of have I just been unluck

Posts

  • Monty DogMonty Dog Posts: 20,614
    Common problem with BB30 I'm afraid, both creaking and bearing durability, particularly if riding in the rain
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • nweststeynnweststeyn Posts: 1,574
    Yup... My BB30 creaks regularly. A clean up usually sorts it, but the bearings need changed regularly.

    A little tip though - if you are changing your bearings, go to an industrial bearing supplier and buy a bunch (bearing code 6806-2RS). Massively money saving and I've had the same lifespan out of £30+ 'BB30' bearings as I have out of £5 generic 6806-2RS bearings.
  • Father JackFather Jack Posts: 3,508
    hopefully bb30 will be replaced by better design for winter use....not looking forward to replacing my winter bike axle setup with external.
    Say... That's a nice bike..
    Trax T700 with Lew Racing Pro VT-1 ;-)
  • sturmeysturmey Posts: 964
    hopefully bb30 will be replaced by better design for winter use....not looking forward to replacing my winter bike axle setup with external.

    Cartridge type Square taper b/bracket for me in winter. Keeps out the muck.
  • crankycrankcrankycrank Posts: 1,830
    Or you could try these seals. http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id255.html (Scroll down to middle of the page). I have never used, or know of anyone else who has used these but for the price it seems worth a try.
  • billybikerbillybiker Posts: 272
    Chris, similar problem with my Trek, I started a post years ago which I've just updated. I think its just a poor design, well, a good design but doesn't last very long in the real world.
  • sungodsungod Posts: 13,206
    the problems with bb30 start if the bb shell and/or bearings are not accurately made and fitted, if loctite is needed then imho it's a sign that something is out of tolerance

    problems are compounded if any required maintenance isn't done

    i've got bb30 (cinelli frame, sram bearings), c. 11,000km, all weathers, rain, lots and lots of rain, some more rain, dust, freezing, baking, still smooth and silent - the bb shell is well made, the bearings installed correctly, and i follow sram's maintenance instructions - when i remember :D
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • jgsijgsi Posts: 5,027
    sungod wrote:
    the problems with bb30 start if the bb shell and/or bearings are not accurately made and fitted, if loctite is needed then imho it's a sign that something is out of tolerance

    problems are compounded if any required maintenance isn't done

    i've got bb30 (cinelli frame, sram bearings), c. 11,000km, all weathers, rain, lots and lots of rain, some more rain, dust, freezing, baking, still smooth and silent - the bb shell is well made, the bearings installed correctly, and i follow sram's maintenance instructions - when i remember :D

    I have not had any issue with my BB30 on Synapse.. but I havent 'maintained' it for ages.. since exploring how to dismantle and put back ages ago... can you give us a rundown on the SRAM maintenance routine for me please,
    ta
  • sungodsungod Posts: 13,206
    on mine, sram recommend greasing bearings every 100 hours riding or after a dunking, that's pretty frequent, i think it's assuming some serious abuse

    anyway, 100 hours is too often for me, i probably do it around 2-3 times a year, this seems enough as there's still clean grease on them when i look

    once i took the bearings out and did a full degrease/regrease, just for the hell of it, but the other times i just did this...

    remove crankset, clean it

    get some paper towel into the bb cavity and wipe out any dirt/grease/water/whatever

    remove the outer shields, finger job

    wipe everything clean with a cloth

    using a fine pick, *carefully* remove the outer bearing seal

    wipe everything clean with a cloth, again

    use the recommended grease - sram says that is skf lghp 2, blue stuff, a 0.4 litre pack is about 15 quid, i use it for all bike bits that need grease

    i put the grease in a syringe and pump it into the bearings

    smear some on the seal, refit seal so that the excess grease squishes out *

    put plenty of grease on the exposed faces, push on the outer shields, again the grease squishes out *

    give it all a wipe

    do the same on the other side

    refit cranks and adjust preload

    done

    * there are two schools of thought: one says to apply less grease as there'll be a bit less drag; the other says pack it in, what harm's a teeny bit of drag vs. the potential for water/crud washing in; i'm of the latter persuasion, i ride all weathers, plus the higher fill means i can go longer before regrease

    fwiw if i flip the cranks by hand, they spin freely 4-5 times, so there's not that much drag

    there's an fsa video that includes bearing cover removal and cleaning/greasing here...

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9uQoas_f4Is

    and the matching document...

    http://webstore.fullspeedahead.com/downloadfly.aspx?download=downloads/Ceramic+BB+Maintenance+Schedule.pdf
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • nweststeynnweststeyn Posts: 1,574
    On the schools of grease-related thoughts discussion:

    Using too much grease can mean more sticky surface area for dust and grit to stick to. Over time this will turn your grease into a grinding paste and just adds to your troubles, as I've found from experience.
  • jgsijgsi Posts: 5,027
    Thanks for that.. when it comes to new bearings which are cheap enough, whats the thoughts on the cheap bearing installation tool (FSA) as opposed to more expensive Park Tool one?
    The former easier for a cok up I would have thought?
  • sungodsungod Posts: 13,206
    nweststeyn wrote:
    On the schools of grease-related thoughts discussion:

    Using too much grease can mean more sticky surface area for dust and grit to stick to. Over time this will turn your grease into a grinding paste and just adds to your troubles, as I've found from experience.

    in this instance that's not correct, consider...

    the grease is inside, totally filling the cavity, presenting minimum surface area, and preventing ingress of water carrying dirt

    if i used less grease, there would be voids, which will increase surface area exposed, allowing dirty water into the bearing cavity where it would mix with the grease causing increased wear

    ...which is why fsa's engineer recommends more grease for harsher conditions
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • HerbsmanHerbsman Posts: 2,029
    Use a normal BB with a BB30 adaptor. Problem solved
    CAPTAIN BUCKFAST'S CYCLING TIPS - GUARANTEED TO WORK! 1 OUT OF 10 RACING CYCLISTS AGREE!
  • nweststeynnweststeyn Posts: 1,574
    sungod wrote:
    nweststeyn wrote:
    On the schools of grease-related thoughts discussion:

    Using too much grease can mean more sticky surface area for dust and grit to stick to. Over time this will turn your grease into a grinding paste and just adds to your troubles, as I've found from experience.

    in this instance that's not correct, consider...

    the grease is inside, totally filling the cavity, presenting minimum surface area, and preventing ingress of water carrying dirt

    if i used less grease, there would be voids, which will increase surface area exposed, allowing dirty water into the bearing cavity where it would mix with the grease causing increased wear

    ...which is why fsa's engineer recommends more grease for harsher conditions

    Ahh yes, but the way I read the original post I thought you meant not wiping the excess grease away on the outside of the bearings/covers. I've seen loads of people leave excess grease oozing out of the outside of the BB inbetween the crank arm and frame, and this stuff gets filthy. I always use plenty of grease on the inside though.
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