Wheel out of true

desweller
desweller Posts: 5,175
edited May 2012 in Workshop
Hello everyone

So, I've built myself a shiny new rear wheel and I was all pleased with myself until I actually started riding it. Ruddy thing keeps going out of true by 1mm or so, doesn't it. I can hear gentle pinging from the wheel when I'm working it hard in a low gear.

Because of the pinging, at the moment I'm assuming that I've just not done an adequate job of taking the twist out of the spokes. I'm going to back the whole thing off, whack some masking tape on the spokes and redo it. Does this sound like it could be the problem? Are there any other things I should think about before I crack on?

I've built a couple of rear wheels before and didn't have this problem, although one of those wheels was 32 spokes and the other 28 spokes. The new wheel is 24 spokes.

The rim and spokes are new (IRD Cadence VSR and DT Swiss Revs) but the hub is used (PlanetX Superlight / Novatec F162SB).

Any help much appreciated!

DW
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Comments

  • Bobbinogs
    Bobbinogs Posts: 4,841
    Not a post to help you I'm afraid Des, I'm just interested in what you think of the Cadence rims? Just about to order a pair myself (matching up with some DT Swiss Competition spokes and retro Record hubs).
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    I'm going to reserve judgment until I know I can get it true mate!
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  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,272
    Most likely excessive tension and lack of distressing... Check them with a tension gauge... Most people turn those nipples to death and rims cannot cope
    left the forum March 2023
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    Am using a tension gauge (the Park Tool one). Tension was in the mid to high band on initial build, but not near the top limit on the gauge. I'll dial it down a bit anyway.

    Cheers.
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  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,272
    Most rims do not take more than 1100 N
    left the forum March 2023
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    Cheers mate - it was significantly easier to true the wheel up at a lower load!

    Where do the manufacturers typically show their max rim load values? I couldn't get anything out of IRD for this rim (stupidly didn't think of asking the supplier, though).
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  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Many rims take more than 1100N, the rigida chrina for one. Mine chrina's have the DS tension around 1300N before I fitted the tyre. I have to run this tension with 11 speed compatable hubs as otherwise the NDS tension is too low. The stan's Alpha 340 has a max tension of 1250N as another example while the DTswiss RR415 has a max tension of 1100N. Many rims true well at high tensions. The problem may be inadaquate stress relieving. Stress relieving while tensioning, dishing, and truing is essential. If this done, ( and after each stress releive check the true and make adjustments then stress relive some more) the n there should be no pinging when riding the wheel.

    Beware of setting the DS tension too low as the NDS tesnion maybe inadaquate ad the nipples may unwind causing more true issues.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    When you initially built the wheel did you pull the rim all the way over toward the drive side by tightening only the drive side spokes first(until the wheel was fairly round and running true) and THEN tighten the non drive side to center(dish) it properly?
    On a rear wheel, not doing this can be a factor in it coming out of true. i.e. It can result in a lack of tension on the non drive side spokes. FWIW and IMHO pinging in a newly built wheel indicates a lack of stressing the spokes and rim during the build, although some might disagree with me. In any case, best of luck. Get some help or a good reference manual if you're not sure of the processes.
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,272
    DesWeller wrote:
    Cheers mate - it was significantly easier to true the wheel up at a lower load!

    Where do the manufacturers typically show their max rim load values? I couldn't get anything out of IRD for this rim (stupidly didn't think of asking the supplier, though).

    I would assume your rims should take up to 1200 N, what tension have you loaded? Low tension is no good for the above reasons, but excessive tension is worse as if your NDS comes loose, no big deal, you have a spoke key and can true it back in five minutes, but if you damage the rim with excessive tension, you need a new rim...
    left the forum March 2023
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    I've got it at about 1kN at the moment, but when I first built it I had it up to over 1.5kN. D'you think I've borked the rim then?
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  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,272
    DesWeller wrote:
    I've got it at about 1kN at the moment, but when I first built it I had it up to over 1.5kN. D'you think I've borked the rim then?

    No.
    left the forum March 2023