QR working loose.
Mccraque
Posts: 819
My friend's just bought a new Boardman but after every ride his front wheel has worked it's way loose. At first I thought that the QR wasn't done up tightly enough....so tightened it down, locked the lever - wheel back solidly in place.
End of next ride (and no adjustment of lever) - the QR has worked loose again.
Concerning. Any thoughts as to why this is happenign?
End of next ride (and no adjustment of lever) - the QR has worked loose again.
Concerning. Any thoughts as to why this is happenign?
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Comments
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Is it Shimano?0
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hahaha....no....although My shimano hub does like undoing itself. So I carry 2 cone spanners with me...
It's a Ritchey wheel.0 -
I mean the qr itself.0
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The QR is Ritchey.0
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oodboo wrote:Just swap it for a shimano one.
+10 -
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I had a similar problem - Shimano skewers fixed it. Only a fiver each from On-One, too.Specialized Roubaix Elite 2015
XM-057 rigid 29er0 -
Shimano skewers have a higher clamping force and will stave off the problem for a lot longer.0
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How tight are you tightening it?
Should be tight enough for the lever to leave an imprint in the hand. Vast majority of the times a QR comes undone is they're not tight enough. The brand doesn't make them better, just some apply greater force to tighten them, though I don't trust ones that have tricks to make it easier to tighten (e.g. the split levers on Crank Brothers). Never sure it's actually tight enough. Just a generic standard QR, palm imprint tight, job done.
And remember, you should check the QR before and after a hard ass descent.0 -
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deadkenny wrote:Vast majority of the times a QR comes undone is they're not tight enough.
Whole different mech eng argument.deadkenny wrote:The brand doesn't make them better, just some apply greater force to tighten them
Wrong wrong wrong diddly wrong o.
Shimano have an internal cam with a higher leverage, versus the typical external cam design. That makes Shimano QRs better than average.
Some QRs have plastic cams, which is a shit idea and makes the QR next to useless for disc forks.
Standard QRs are a completely crap design... but a really really tightly closed Shimano QR can avoid most "undoing" problems.0 -
YeehaaMcgee wrote:
Sounds like you need to carry a leprachaun or a pixie with you as well, who knows how to properly tighten cones and locknuts.Mccraque wrote:hahaha....no....although My shimano hub does like undoing itself. So I carry 2 cone spanners with me...
I'll take one if CRC have them on special...
It stays tight for some while (months) ...then loosens itself off again. Usually on big terrain. a couple of bike shops serviced it before - came loose after each instance. am servicing myself this weekend. Am going to try a bit of treadlock on the locknut - see if that helps.0 -
As I say "just some apply greater force to tighten them".mrmonkfinger wrote:Shimano have an internal cam with a higher leverage, versus the typical external cam design. That makes Shimano QRs better than average.
So yeah internal cam applies more leverage, or you can just tighten up a regular cheap QR properly to the same required clamping force
With the correct force, they do the same job and you shouldn't find a cheapo comes undone any more than a Shimano.0 -
Not really. A Hope QR I had had to be tapped closed with a mallet, or a monkey wrench, or kicked, in order to achieve enough tension to hold the wheel securely.deadkenny wrote:
As I say "just some apply greater force to tighten them".mrmonkfinger wrote:Shimano have an internal cam with a higher leverage, versus the typical external cam design. That makes Shimano QRs better than average.
So yeah internal cam applies more leverage, or you can just tighten up a regular cheap QR properly to the same required clamping force
With the correct force, they do the same job and you shouldn't find a cheapo comes undone any more than a Shimano.0 -
deadkenny wrote:So yeah internal cam applies more leverage, or you can just tighten up a regular cheap QR properly to the same required clamping force
One with a plastic curved washer will start to deform the washer.
Hopes, with a metal curved washer, can be tightened up using Yeehaa's methods, as the washer will survive. I can't see many people spanking their QR with a mallet, though.
As an aside, a complete solution to this problem would be to have wheel-nut style (ie conical) inserts in the fork ends. QRs would be unable to loosen then (think of car wheel nuts). Or, a 15mm/20mm axle.0 -
(ahem) done properly, of coursemrmonkfinger wrote:Or, a 15mm/20mm axle.
I don't expect many people to use my methods on hoe QRs. But I'm luckily more ape than man, so using stone-age methods is fine by me!0 -
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Never have a problem with Hope QRs. The brass cam needs cleaning and a smear of grease occasionally, that's it. Most the hassles people have are because they're crudded up so there's tonnes of friction stopping the thing from clamping.0
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Which is the problem. Well, a big chunk of it anyway. Crap design gets filled with crud, making it hard to gauge the right tension.deadkenny wrote:Never have a problem with Hope QRs. The brass cam needs cleaning and a smear of grease occasionally, that's it. Most the hassles people have are because they're crudded up so there's tonnes of friction stopping the thing from clamping.
Shimano skewers don't do that, they remain consistent.0 -
deadkenny wrote:Most the hassles people have are because they're crudded up so there's tonnes of friction stopping the thing from clamping.
Most but not all - brand new, I couldn't get mine tight enough to stop the front wheel moving under braking. I did them up to a point where I had visible impressions on both hands, one from the lever and one from the nut end, at which point they were too tight to be undone with just fingers (I used a tyre lever). Swapping to Shimano skewers (also brand new) provided the fix. Hope hubs are fantastic and I'd recommend them to anyone, it's a shame that the skewers aren't quite so goodSpecialized Roubaix Elite 2015
XM-057 rigid 29er0
