Clarks Skeletal Issue / Solution....
JackJack87
Posts: 4
Hi
Im having some troubles with a set of Clarks Skeletal's i have on my Kona Stab deluxe. If I leave them, they are quite good, have a nice positive feel and nice and stiff. However, once riding, gradually throughout the day they get softer and looser until eventually im pretty much on the handle bar when braking.
My initial thought was air in the system, however they have been bled and bled and to my knowledge, air in the system would be fairly a constant 'negative', not one that seemingly gets worse throughout the day.
Does anybody have any queries on what could be causing this and how this can be solved? I dont know their age as came second hand on the bike. I cant believe its heat related as the runs we do are fairly short DH runs so will be fully cooled by the end of the walk up.
If there is no suggestions to this, this is my solution I have a question regarding.......
I have a set of Hayes 9's on an old hardtail that were always mega. As money is very short I thought about moving these onto my DH bike, however the hose isnt long enough. From my research online it seems I would need new hose and fittings. If I wanted goodridge hose (Previous experience in motorsport has shown me to make sure you get a good hose), I guess I would need the rather expensive goodridge fittings. Although far from ideal, is it possible to use the previous fittings on the brakes and just put in a new length of Goodridge Hose? Or do I require new fittings aswell, in which case can anyone point me in the direction of what I need?
Thanks in advance
Jack
Im having some troubles with a set of Clarks Skeletal's i have on my Kona Stab deluxe. If I leave them, they are quite good, have a nice positive feel and nice and stiff. However, once riding, gradually throughout the day they get softer and looser until eventually im pretty much on the handle bar when braking.
My initial thought was air in the system, however they have been bled and bled and to my knowledge, air in the system would be fairly a constant 'negative', not one that seemingly gets worse throughout the day.
Does anybody have any queries on what could be causing this and how this can be solved? I dont know their age as came second hand on the bike. I cant believe its heat related as the runs we do are fairly short DH runs so will be fully cooled by the end of the walk up.
If there is no suggestions to this, this is my solution I have a question regarding.......
I have a set of Hayes 9's on an old hardtail that were always mega. As money is very short I thought about moving these onto my DH bike, however the hose isnt long enough. From my research online it seems I would need new hose and fittings. If I wanted goodridge hose (Previous experience in motorsport has shown me to make sure you get a good hose), I guess I would need the rather expensive goodridge fittings. Although far from ideal, is it possible to use the previous fittings on the brakes and just put in a new length of Goodridge Hose? Or do I require new fittings aswell, in which case can anyone point me in the direction of what I need?
Thanks in advance
Jack
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Comments
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Hose makes no difference on an MTB. Very different systems/pressures. Just get standard hoses.I don't do smileys.
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Parktools0 -
If there is no leakage, and definately no air in the system(some bubbles can be quite stubborn, tap the caliper etc to try and get them to come up to the resovoir), I can only think that the issue is heat related. They arent really DH brakes...
If, once the lever is loose, you pump the lever, does it return to normal?0 -
Would they be OK if you left them untouched till your next riding day, or would they still be fooked?
If OK one could say heat but really they should be cool enough in around 30 secs come what may. If it is heat then the pad compound must be fairly kerrappy.
What pads are you using?Giant Reign X10 -
Word of warning. Whilst riding with these brakes, I squeezed the front and the hose popped off the reservoir!!!!
To be fair to Clark's, they handled it superbly and sent me a brand new front and rear set, rotors, spare pads the lot overnight and sent a courier to pick the old ones up for urgent testing saying that there was clearly a fault. Basically, they told me a way to check - remove the black dust cover from the back of the reservoir which reveals the nut and ferrule. Try pulling it off the reservoir and you should NOT be able to do it, even with all your body weight as they are factory pressed on. I could pull both front and back off with one hand!!!! Since replacing them, I must say they've been pretty good, even before bedding them in. They have promised to send me a report once they tested the old ones but as yet haven't ..
Check them ASAP!!0