What lube for QR skewers?

ghostface
ghostface Posts: 21
edited May 2012 in MTB general
Can I use a touch of dry chain lube for QR skewers? I have finish line dry.

Comments

  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Yep. Or a thin layer of grease. I just leave mine though! Shimano ones rarely need anything.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    Where are you thinking of lubing?

    And what Qrs are they?
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  • ghostface
    ghostface Posts: 21
    I bought a pair of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-SHIMANO- ... 0725827975

    Was thinking of lubing the actual shaft.

    I've swapped the front one, but the back one is maybe 5mm shorter than the existing one. I've fitted it, but not sure if I should leave it on? It took 8 whole twists to tightened, that should be enough?

    Thanks for the quick responses.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    ghostface wrote:
    I bought a pair of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-SHIMANO- ... 0725827975

    Was thinking of lubing the actual shaft.

    I've swapped the front one, but the back one is maybe 5mm shorter than the existing one. I've fitted it, but not sure if I should leave it on? It took 8 whole twists to tightened, that should be enough?

    Thanks for the quick responses.
    The shaft does not need lube. Any water displacer can help to reduce rust if it is steel.

    How many twists makes no difference as that is not what tightens the Qr.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • ghostface
    ghostface Posts: 21
    nicklouse wrote:
    ghostface wrote:
    I bought a pair of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-SHIMANO- ... 0725827975

    Was thinking of lubing the actual shaft.

    I've swapped the front one, but the back one is maybe 5mm shorter than the existing one. I've fitted it, but not sure if I should leave it on? It took 8 whole twists to tightened, that should be enough?

    Thanks for the quick responses.


    How many twists makes no difference as that is not what tightens the Qr.

    I know that much :D . I meant 8 twist max before I moved the lever to tighten. I'd guess the shaft is half up he available thread on the end bolt
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    I'd want to see the end poking out.
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  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Have you measured them. Road ones are 130mm
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  • ghostface
    ghostface Posts: 21
    I haven't, will do. Rear was supposed to be 135mm.
  • just some light oil on the shaft will do, loads of grease will just add to the drag.
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  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    just some light oil on the shaft will do, loads of grease will just add to the drag.
    There is no 'drag'. The skewer just holds the nuts together. The wheel runs on bearings which in turn run on the axle.
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  • Dub L
    Dub L Posts: 62
    I just put a light coating of grease on mine, not essential though.
  • ghostface
    ghostface Posts: 21
    cooldad wrote:
    just some light oil on the shaft will do, loads of grease will just add to the drag.
    There is no 'drag'. The skewer just holds the nuts together. The wheel runs on bearings which in turn run on the axle.
    Ahh ok. I just lightly lubed them.

    Anyway I measured the rear qr. original was 168mm and replacement is 165mm. That's from the lever housing to end of the thread. But I'm thinking, just for peace of mind, I'll need to get longer ones so as you said I can see the end poke out.

    Any recommendations?
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Shimano
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  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Tightening - You just do up the nut and try the lever until the lever is hard to lock. If it leaves an imprint in your palm - it's correct. If it doesn't it's too loose.

    Though split ones like Crank Brothers try to make it easier, but I still go for it being tough to do up as indication that it won't come loose.

    Skewers - any. They all pretty much do the job if used correctly.

    And do check they're still tight from time to time. More so before and after a crazy gnarly run.
  • mrmonkfinger
    mrmonkfinger Posts: 1,452
    deadkenny wrote:
    Skewers - any. They all pretty much do the job if used correctly.

    Avoid plastic cams.

    Metal external cams are ok (ie most). Internal metal cams are even better - ie Shimano.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Plastic work. Though they might wear down easier but are usually fairly tough (some of the big name expensive bikes use plastic!). Just they seize up a bit when cruddy. Brass is better at making a smoother lever, but still needs to be tough to lock else it's not doing the job.

    I've seen Sheldon Brown's opinions on skewer types - external are rubbish, internal is the only way, etc. Balls to that I say. Just use them properly, make sure they're locked tight, and clean them now and again.
  • oodboo
    oodboo Posts: 2,171
    I used to use a hope skewer on the back of my enduro but it kept getting a bit lose and causing annoying creaking. I went back to a shimano one until I changed it to 10mm thru axle. On an old hardtail (commencal) the sqewer kept slipping in the dropout on the fork. Swapped the for a shimano one and problem solved. I stick to shimano skewers from now on.

    Maxles are a bit different through, make sure you lube them a bit and check them often. May be just a problem with my hope front hub but it got stuck. Very stuck. Fortunatly the LBS got it out without breaking anything for me.
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