xt mech problem
brearley
Posts: 165
i've recently bought an xt 10 speed rear mech and 10 speed shifter.
i have moved from slx 10 speed so no problems with figuring out how it all works.
i cannot get the mech to pull the right amount for each click. currently shifting 10 gears in 6 clicks which obviously isn't right. I've tried messing with the B limit screw and the two limit screws but that isn't helping at all really.
Any help on this appreciated
i have moved from slx 10 speed so no problems with figuring out how it all works.
i cannot get the mech to pull the right amount for each click. currently shifting 10 gears in 6 clicks which obviously isn't right. I've tried messing with the B limit screw and the two limit screws but that isn't helping at all really.
Any help on this appreciated
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Comments
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Have a read of park tools. It's got not a lot to do with the limit screws0
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i've read it and i already knew most of that stuff, just dont understand why the pull ratio seems to be wrong?0
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If you got ALL 10 spd stuff of the same make it must all mesh together0
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looking at it closely I may have been 'had' on ebay with someone claiming the mech was a 10 speed but it may well be a 9 speed as 10 has slightly different cable entry0
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I've got one of the new XT shifters with an XTR derailleur and I'm having the same problem, only 7 clicks from one end to the other and it seems very clunky going back the other way (releasing the tension). As far as I know everything is in correctly, not that I thought there'd be much to it. Run the cable to the derailleur and screw in the securing bolt with finger tight tension on the inner whilst in the small gear...
What have I/we missed??0 -
agg25 wrote:I've got one of the new XT shifters with an XTR derailleur and I'm having the same problem, only 7 clicks from one end to the other and it seems very clunky going back the other way (releasing the tension). As far as I know everything is in correctly, not that I thought there'd be much to it. Run the cable to the derailleur and screw in the securing bolt with finger tight tension on the inner whilst in the small gear...
What have I/we missed??
Cable routed correctly on th bolt?"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Yep, new shadow plus 10 speed XTR. cable is routed correctly to the cable stop, with a bit of exposed inner to the securing bolt on the derailleur...0
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I had an XT shifter from Merlin that turned out to be nine speed! That caused issues on an XTR/XT mix too, unsurprisingly. I sent it back, got a 10 speed pair, happy days. Check the clicks on your shifter by loosening the cable so it has no tension, and then releasing the shifter all the way through its clicks. Then carefully shift one at a time, 8 clicks is 9 spd. 9 clicks is 10.A Flock of Birds
+ some other bikes.0 -
agg25 wrote:with a bit of exposed inner to the securing bolt on the derailleur...Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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Here's a rough pic but gives you an idea -
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inner cable on mech not visible.....Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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Is the cable tension correct? i.e. with the chain on the 2nd smallest sprocket, a half-push on the shifter should make the chain just rub against the next sprocket up (shimano's own method!). A full push so that it clicks should obviously shift to the next sprocket and no further. Another check is that with the chain on the second biggest sprocket, and the shifter in the corresponding position, the chain should just avoid rubbing the biggest sprocket when pedalling normally.
Also with the tension too tight, shifting from big to small sprockets will be very clunky and hit and miss.
Most shifting issues are to do with cable tension, or dirt in the cables.2011 Canyon XC 8.0 (Monza Race Red)
1996(?) dyna-tech titanium HT; pace RC-35's; Hope Ti Hubs etc etc
Bianchi Road Bike0 -
OK, I don't have the wheels yet so can't check against sprockets but still should shift 9 times for a 10 speed I'm thinkin. Maybe it is the inner cable tension as everything's brand new. I just thought bolting the cable down when the cable has been pulled by hand to take the slack up would be roughly right. It was mega clunky going down so yeah..maybe too tight...0
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You what? So how do you know it's going from one end to the other with no casette in there? If the shifters going all the way across it's either a shifter issue or you can't count the clicks, if the shifter is moving 7 gears you've no idea how many gears the mech is covering and are wasting our time.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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It is a LOT more subtle than just hand tension.2011 Canyon XC 8.0 (Monza Race Red)
1996(?) dyna-tech titanium HT; pace RC-35's; Hope Ti Hubs etc etc
Bianchi Road Bike0 -
Sorry for wasting your time (not), I mean this is what forums are for, learning things eh??
I would have thought even without too much adjusting, the shifter / derailleur should still click across 9 shifts (yes I can count btw!)
I highly doubt it's a shifter issue, it's brand spankers.0 -
Is the mech hitting the high stop, that's the only thing that should stop it moving freely, your issue is now totally different to the OP's as his was relating to real gears and is now a thread hijack anyways....Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0