Rear wheel hub Broken?

blablablacksheep

During my commute to work on bike i suddenly lost all power from the bike and was free-wheeling being unable to move the bike, only the pedals moving around.

Once got home looked at the cassette and it seems fine, but when i spind the cranks the rear wheel doesnt move but the cassette does.

It sounds like the freehub is broken within the rear wheel, which is a suprise given its a XT hub and i thought they quite reliable, more suprise given the bike is only being used as a commuter so nothin too hardcore.

I phoned up bike shop and he recons it will cost about £40-50 for the part not inclu labour costs ect.

just wondering if this a DIY job and also some advice as i never come across this problem before.

nicklouse

10mm allen key is all that is needed after the cassette and bearings have been removed.

new hub from CRC strip it and give the whole hub new bits.

delcol

i had to rebuild one a (m-525) last week for my missus son.. it is quite easy to do..

looking on google you can pick up a new hub (complete) for £28 dont know how much a new freehub would be on it's own,
in my case it was cheaper to get a new hub than it was to buy the free hub on it own..
tools required.
chain whip & cassette removal tool & a big adjustable spanner
cone spanners 17mm & 15mm
a vice and axel vice ????? maybe..
10mm allen key to remove the freehub..
and some grease to refit the bearings.

it really is a easy job to do if you get a new hub you could strip the broken one (on the bike) and rebuild it with the innerards off the the new one.
cones locknuts axel bearings and freehub..
this video shows you how to do it..

cost me £23 to do it and that was the cost of the new hub.
lbs wanted to charge him double that...

blablablacksheep

Thanks for the video link but it looks very complicated compared to this video i saw for XT hub
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6B2PoG9 ... re=related
http://www.cyclistno1.co.uk/features/ma ... ervice.htm

Here is some more info about the specific details of the hub(its a V brake wheel)

Shimano XT FH-M752(VLAN)
So would i need one of these hubs then (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=67242)

Also still means i would need to undo all the spokes and re-do them all...... :shock: (maybe get LBS to just replace the hub?)

Kind of need to get this sorted asap, so if it looks too complex /too big a job might have to just pay for it to be done.

delcol

i dont understand why you would have to touch the spokes to replace the freehub. looking at your model hub it will be the same as the m-525 i did last week...

you only replacing the innerards of the hub the hub shell will not change it will be the same..

that video does not show you how to remove the freehub which is simple it is just a case of unscrewing the body fixing bolt (number 16 on the diagram)

just follow the steps in the video i linked or the one you linked..
it is this easy..
remove cassette , undo lock nut and remove 17mm while holding cone 15mm then remove cone( may require axel vice and a vice to hold axel to remove)
then slide out axel remove bearings (into tub) wipe clean take 10mm allen key lefty loosey remove free hub.

repeat steps for the new hub (stripping it) replacing the parts from the (broken hub) with parts from new hub.
that be put washer/spacer on then freehub body tighten 10mm allen key .
then add pleanty of grease and push bearings into there recesses (9 bearing perside)
push axel through (from drive side) then fit the cone 15mm then the washer/spacer then finally the locknut 17mm fit the rubber seal..
refit cassette job done..

delcol

this may fit and is cheaper than a complete hub.. but you will have to rebuild it with your existing bearings axel etc.. assuming they ok...

it has the same part number, but lists it as a M-750 were your is a M752

i'm sure if you dropped them a email or call they would be able to tell you...

blablablacksheep

I was just thinking about replacing the whole Hub and not just the freehub as if i getting new hub why not just do the full shabang ect...thus would need to change the spokes..

But tbh just replacing the freehub with the one inside the new hub does sound good idea, though you sure it will be compatible if i get T780 hub freehub and use it on the m752??

Il check when i have a chance to see if the bearings ect are still good inside the m752 and if the hub isnt damaged at all, if it isnt then a freehub switch like you suggestions sounds like my best bet, and cheapest one... if not il do a hub switch.

delcol

assuming the inside bit were the bearings are aint pitted and is still smooth there aint much that can go wrong with the hub shell so just franken bike the new innerards into the old one as mentioned and shown in the videos..

it really is simple.
this exploded diagram from shimano gives you the part number. it the same as the one i linked above. or simply get a like for like hub to use an a donor..
a google search shows that alot of the freehubs are the same across the shimano hub range....
best bet would be to check with the shop before you buy..

all i did was bought a like for like hub same M-525 stripped it and replaced the innerards old for new..

delcol

this may enlighten you to..

blablablacksheep

^^ link didnt work sadly.but thanks

My plan is this...

Go to LBS find out exactly how much it would cost for them to fix the issue,if they can repair it for good price then il probably go for that..

If they "need to buy parts" ect then il just see if they can match the freehub price online and how much labour will cost, if their labour costs r low then il go for that also...(dont have the cone spanners and stuff from looking around)

If though they quoting me around £50/+ for it then il DIY the job myself using the freehub from merlin, as long as the bearings inside/hub is good condition and isnt pitted ect.

For DIY job Finish line Lith grease is ok right?(someone told me once it brakes down too easly?)

delcol

if thats the white stuff then it does say its for hubs on the tub...

as for it breaking down i would not know.. i used park bearing grease...

were abouts you based? if you local i would gladly help you or do it for you....

try that link again.
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic ... elp-please

this is intresting..

These hubs will work as they all share the same Y-3BD 98010 freehub body

555 = Y-3BD 98010
570 = Y-3BD 98010
752 = Y-3BD 98010
756 = Y-3BD 98010

according to this guy shimano m-555 m-570 m-752 and m-756 all share the same freehub body part no Y-3BD 98010
so any of those hubs should do to strip and replace the innerards,,,

blablablacksheep

thanks mate this is much appreciated.

I have a old set of wheels so i thought id try a test run.

I manage to use a mole wrench and a normal spanner to remove the axel, though i didnt remove the lock ring as the drive side didnt have one so just came straight off, though the non-drive side had one so i couldnt remove all the bolts from that side.

anyhow the axel removed and bearings removed ect, so so far so good, going to try remove the freehub

I think if i was to do this "for real" then i might need to get the two cone spanners as the spanners i got are the right size but too "fat" so not flat enough to remove the axel from the non-drive side like you supposed to do....other than that it seems not too complex a job.

still il see how much they recon to fit the freehub as i havnt got a lot of time atm do to it, so if it a good price il let them do it, if not il DIY.

but again thanks for the help, very interesting about hubs sharing parts

delcol

no worries just glad i could help..

blablablacksheep

emailed merlin and they just said check shimano site for the part number ect.

So double checked the site and for FH-M752 the "complete freehub bodyw/Right hand dust cap" number is Y-3BD98010

The merlin part is 3BD 9801 so guess that is the correct part, and like you said in that link it seems these parts are all interchangeable, so going to buy the freehub body part off them, then have a go myself.

at least this way il hopefully learn something and maybe save some cash too.:)

delcol

thats what i like to hear..
17mm cone spanners aint that expensive
15mm


i lucky i have a full set of these they really good quality and comfy to use with the rubber grip

mcnultycop

I'll be having a crack at this using Delcol's advice this weekend. Just need a 17mm cone spanner as I bought everything but.