Help with a rear cassette please

corona
corona Posts: 116
edited April 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi,I have a Trek 4100, quite old ( bout 10 years). I put a new chain on it and i was getting chain slip. I had a look at the rear cassette (and the internet) and decided on a new one it is a 7 speed. I have no LBS so wiggle order was sent with all the bits and pieces I need. The order arrived today, but I have an immediate problem. The Shimano cassette lockring remover doesnt fit. I've just had another look on the web and i can only find shimano compatable.

My question is. Do older gears have different sizes, i can see the ridges inside but the lock ring remover is just too big. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers

BTW, I am a maintainance novice

Comments

  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    Sounds like you've got a freewheel not a freehub.

    If that's the case, the bad news is the new part won't fit. It's a different hub design; on modern hubs the freewheel mechanism is part of the hub and the cassette fits onto splines on the hub. On freewheel hubs the mechanism is part of the cassette assembly and the unit screws onto the hub (incidentally, they are super-difficult to remove, especially if they've been on for a long time.

    If it's been less than 7 days you can send it back and get a 7-speed freewheel and freewheel tool. Be prepared to have difficulty removing it. When I had this problem a few years ago I wound up getting a new wheel with a modern hub instead; it was that difficult to remove.
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    On Strava.{/url}
  • corona
    corona Posts: 116
    Aahh, that makes sense, thanks. I have taken as much as i can off the wheel and am now looking through the middle at sets of bearings. I think that confirms a freewheel.

    I hear your warning of unit screws and these havnt been touched for 10 years. Seems like a perfect excuse to buy a new bike, to be honest the rest of the bike isnt in great shape. think i will return some items to wiggle.

    Thanks for the reply
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    All you needed to do is remove the preewheel using a park Fr-1 tool and screw on a new freeheeel. service hubs if they start toi run a little rough. Buying a whole new bike because of a worn freewheel is abit excessive if the current bike meets your needs.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • corona
    corona Posts: 116
    Thanks cycleclinic, i am all for keeping a bike going. I would need to send off for the fr-1 tool and a new freeweel, bout 70 pounds. will i still then have the worry of these unit screws being a problem ?
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    You'd be better off with this:

    http://www.merlincycles.co.uk/Bike+Shop ... E-MACH.htm

    And this:

    http://www.merlincycles.co.uk/Bike+Shop ... 501228.htm

    Sounds like you've got the correct tool for these, and would be cheaper!
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Tool
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHIMANO-TYPE- ... 2a1c05bf16
    Freewheel
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-7-SPEED-M ... 3a7371b518
    Less than £14 total, a bit less than £70!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • corona
    corona Posts: 116
    Chunkers, thanks very much for these links, wouldn't need to replace the whole bike, just a new rear wheel that has a freehub ( have I got that correct).

    The beginner. thank you as well for an even cheaper option, although some ( in fact many) ebay sellers wont send to Qatar. I have friends that can forward things to me though. If I was to go down this line might I still have problems removing the old cassette , the unit screws ? I do like the sound of a 14pound fix.

    Thanks to both of you for taking time to answer.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Freewheel's can be a pig to remove as the pedaling forces screw it on tighter, the usual method (if you have the kit) is to put the tool in a vice and then put the wheel onto it and turn the wheel (like a Giant steering wheel), at home I have a tyre on the wheel (easier to hold) and use a long 'breaker bar' on the tool, I lean over the wheel (so the freewheel faces away from me) and grip the wheel (pushing down) with my body and left hand and push down on the breaker with the right, comes undone easily enough, wouldn't try it with just a spanner length on the tool though! Worst case I would think you could find any local mechanic who'd do it for the price of a glass of Orange juice (no alcohol obviously!)
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • felix.london
    felix.london Posts: 4,067
    corona wrote:
    Seems like a perfect excuse to buy a new bike

    :D
    "Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes

    Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build

    Trek Session 8
  • corona
    corona Posts: 116
    The Beginner wrote:
    Worst case I would think you could find any local mechanic who'd do it for the price of a glass of Orange juice (no alcohol obviously!)

    I work in a school, so sounds like I may be visiting the D&T dept. Orange juice will get me nowhere with them,they on;y deal in bottles of Stella :lol:

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