The B-screw controls chain wrap around the cogs and the ease at which the RD cage moves up and down the cassette.
More chain wrap means faster shifting.
So, you want maximum chain wrap at the point where the cage moves freely (ie where the teeth of the jockey wheel does not touch the teeth of the cogs). This will be the optimum point.
You adjust the RD by shifting onto the largest sprocket, keeping the cranks spinning, and then adjusting the B-screw until the RD jockey wheel runs smoothly over the sprocket teeth (the RD starts off in a jerky washboard motion and will smoothen out as the B-screw is screwed inwards).
Repeat for each of the chainrings to find the optimum point. It may be 6mm or it may be not, but this method will find it.
Posts
VOODOO CANZO
Come and see me at https://www.facebook.com/biketyke/
Certainly much bigger than 6mm.
The other way is to adjust until you hear rubbing, then back off a bit until goes.
VOODOO CANZO
Come and see me at https://www.facebook.com/biketyke/
What does it do? I don't remember ever having to adjust one
VOODOO CANZO
Come and see me at https://www.facebook.com/biketyke/
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools
More chain wrap means faster shifting.
So, you want maximum chain wrap at the point where the cage moves freely (ie where the teeth of the jockey wheel does not touch the teeth of the cogs). This will be the optimum point.
You adjust the RD by shifting onto the largest sprocket, keeping the cranks spinning, and then adjusting the B-screw until the RD jockey wheel runs smoothly over the sprocket teeth (the RD starts off in a jerky washboard motion and will smoothen out as the B-screw is screwed inwards).
Repeat for each of the chainrings to find the optimum point. It may be 6mm or it may be not, but this method will find it.