Rear Wheel = Front Wheel

jt_intheuk

Not sure if this has been discussed before, however is there any reason not to run different brands of wheels on the front and rear of your MTB? For example my rear hub is is about to give up, can I just replace the rear wheel and leave the original front one?

1mancity2

No reason what so ever.

sandy771

Just don't mix cross ply and radial

Markmjh

generally helps if they are both the same size, but really dont matter about brand.

sloppycowpat

cant have a radial spoke wheel on the front with disk brakes or hub brakes or on the back period as they do not cope with the torsion and bending applied by torque and twist under load- i.e forward/ back ward motion in pedalling and braking

but any others are fine

diy

Can't you just service the hub and replace the bearings?

If I chucked a wheel away every time my hubs gave out, I'd be spending a fortune on wheels.

cooldad

sandy771 wrote:

Just don't mix cross ply and radial

sloppycowpat wrote:

cant have a radial spoke wheel on the front with disk brakes or hub brakes or on the back period as they do not cope with the torsion and bending applied by torque and twist under load- i.e forward/ back ward motion in pedalling and braking

but any others are fine

Whooosh

YeehaaMcgee

cooldad wrote:

sandy771 wrote:

Just don't mix cross ply and radial

sloppycowpat wrote:

cant have a radial spoke wheel on the front with disk brakes or hub brakes or on the back period as they do not cope with the torsion and bending applied by torque and twist under load- i.e forward/ back ward motion in pedalling and braking

but any others are fine

Whooosh

Erm, the whoosh is on you, dumbass.
Sandy's making a poor attempt at a joke about radial/crossply tyres, whilst sloppycowpat is pointing out that a radially spoked wheel shouldn't be used with disc brakes, or on the rear.

The main thing to remember is that you should always put your slowest wheel on the rear. This is why we have cassettes and freehubs out there. If the rear was lighter and faster, then it would be very hard to keep a bike in a straight line.

cooldad

YeehaaMcgee wrote:

cooldad wrote:

sandy771 wrote:

Just don't mix cross ply and radial

sloppycowpat wrote:

cant have a radial spoke wheel on the front with disk brakes or hub brakes or on the back period as they do not cope with the torsion and bending applied by torque and twist under load- i.e forward/ back ward motion in pedalling and braking

but any others are fine

Whooosh

Erm, the whoosh is on you, dumbass.
Sandy's making a poor attempt at a joke about radial/crossply tyres, whilst sloppycowpat is pointing out that a radially spoked wheel shouldn't be used with disc brakes, or on the rear.

The main thing to remember is that you should always put your slowest wheel on the rear. This is why we have cassettes and freehubs out there. If the rear was lighter and faster, then it would be very hard to keep a bike in a straight line.

Yeah it would overtake the non radial front. Dumbass.

YeehaaMcgee

cooldad wrote:

Yeah it would overtake the non crossply front. Dumbass.

Fixed it for you.

And confused the issue even moreso.
Dumbass.

cooldad

YeehaaMcgee wrote:

cooldad wrote:

Yeah it would overtake the non crossply radial front. Dumbass.

Fixed it for you.

And confused the issue even moreso.
I'm such a Dumbass.

YeehaaMcgee

cooldad wrote:

I'm such a Dumbass.

cooldad

YeehaaMcgee wrote:

cooldad wrote:

I'm such a Dumbass.

I refuse to stoop to your level.
Dumbass

YeehaaMcgee

cooldad wrote:

YeehaaMcgee wrote:

cooldad wrote:

I'm such a Dumbass.

I refuse to stoop to your level.
Dumbass

No, you're a dumbass.

Bikerguy15

YeehaaMcgee wrote:

The main thing to remember is that you should always put your slowest wheel on the rear. This is why we have cassettes and freehubs out there. If the rear was lighter and faster, then it would be very hard to keep a bike in a straight line.

Thats not the reason why we have them at all, derp.

YeehaaMcgee

Bikerguy15 wrote:

YeehaaMcgee wrote:

The main thing to remember is that you should always put your slowest wheel on the rear. This is why we have cassettes and freehubs out there. If the rear was lighter and faster, then it would be very hard to keep a bike in a straight line.

Thats not the reason why we have them at all, derp.

I'd love to hear your reason as to why they're there then

sloppycowpat

jt_intheuk

What? Should I even ask what bargain-mid range wheels you would buy to replace the stock AlexRims XP17 Rims/Shimano Hubs, that came with my 2010 Genesis Core 20? Mainly ride XC, bridleways and the occasional footpath around the Chilterns. 9 speed rear cassette and centrelock front rotors and I think 9mm QR skewers.
Not to heavy with a reasonable freewheel/hub?
Any ideas?

cooldad

YeehaaMcgee wrote:

cooldad wrote:

YeehaaMcgee wrote:

cooldad wrote:

I'm such a Dumbass.

I refuse to stoop to your level.
Dumbass

No, you're a dumbass.

You're a derp? Dumbass.

YeehaaMcgee

jt_intheuk wrote:

What? Should I even ask what bargain-mid range wheels you would buy to replace the stock AlexRims XP17 Rims/Shimano Hubs, that came with my 2010 Genesis Core 20? Mainly ride XC, bridleways and the occasional footpath around the Chilterns. 9 speed rear cassette and centrelock front rotors and I think 9mm QR skewers.
Not to heavy with a reasonable freewheel/hub?
Any ideas?

Depends on what's wrong with your current wheelset. Why do you want to change them?

oh, and ignore cooldad, he's a dumbass.

jt_intheuk

YeehaaMcgee wrote:

jt_intheuk wrote:

What? Should I even ask what bargain-mid range wheels you would buy to replace the stock AlexRims XP17 Rims/Shimano Hubs, that came with my 2010 Genesis Core 20? Mainly ride XC, bridleways and the occasional footpath around the Chilterns. 9 speed rear cassette and centrelock front rotors and I think 9mm QR skewers.
Not to heavy with a reasonable freewheel/hub?
Any ideas?

Depends on what's wrong with your current wheelset. Why do you want to change them?

oh, and ignore cooldad, he's a dumbass.

Just think that my rear wheel hub will not last much longer following a lack of occasional maintenance. Although I have serviced them for the first time recently, but noticed damage to the cones and races of the hub.

Aren't we all a bit of a dumbass? Some more annoyingly than others?

cooldad

YeehaaMcgee wrote:

oh, and ignore cooldad, he's a dumbass.

That's Mr Dumbass to you, derp.

YeehaaMcgee

cooldad wrote:

YeehaaMcgee wrote:

oh, and ignore cooldad, he's a dumbass.

That's Mr Dumbass to you, derp.

That's "Wing Commander Lieutenant" Derp, the 4th. Esquire, to you. Dumbass.

cooldad

YeehaaMcgee wrote:

cooldad wrote:

YeehaaMcgee wrote:

oh, and ignore cooldad, he's a dumbass.

That's Mr Dumbass to you, derp.

That's Lola to you. Mr Dumbass sir.

YeehaaMcgee

Lola? Haha! Where the hell did that come from?
Even though that genuinely made me laugh, you're still a dumbass.

diy

What are you looking to achieve?
Have your current wheels stayed straight and true, are you looking for something lighter, able to take more abuse, something with an easy to service hub?

Personally I'd track down a workshop guide on the hub, strip, clean and re-grease it and it might go another year.

For cheap wheelsets
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/index.php?cPath=40
or
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_ ... cts_id=315 for a custom wheel.
lots of options to consider. If your current rims have held up fine then you may as well go for another cheap XC rim.

lesz42

Why has my Ready Brek exploded all over the microwave when I followed the instructions to the letter?

Bikerguy15

Bikerguy15 wrote:

YeehaaMcgee wrote:

The main thing to remember is that you should always put your slowest wheel on the rear. This is why we have cassettes and freehubs out there. If the rear was lighter and faster, then it would be very hard to keep a bike in a straight line.

Thats not the reason why we have them at all, derp.

YeehaaMcgee wrote:

I'd love to hear your reason as to why they're there then

The clue is in the name, you use a freewheel (or freehub) so that you can freewheel a rear wheel i.e allow the wheel to spin without the cranks needing to turn. The need for a cassette should be obvious.

Ergo, the reason why it is heavier is out of necessity because of more material that is needed.

cooldad

Oh dear. Whooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooosh.

And Lola is still a Dumbass.

YeehaaMcgee

Oh dear god. Is Grondel back?

jt_intheuk

Oh dear I've missed something?