Is Completely Waterproof Design needed for a bike light?

Faye_Yan
Faye_Yan Posts: 8
edited May 2012 in Commuting general
:shock: most LED flashlights willl have a waterproof standard, and I think a good flashlight should have a high waterproof standard, better at IPX-8, completely waterproof, feel free to use even in a terrible raning day.

Well, for good bike light items, should Completely Waterproof needed?
Many peopel told me that they need a bike light that can be waterproof completely, and they said this should be a main feature for a good bike light. I also agree that a waterproog bike light is good, while, what confuse me is, how can we make sure heat dissipation when the light is completed sealed for Completely Waterproof?.....

I am really interested in the answer.....do any body got the same question?


:roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :?: :?: :?: :?: :roll:

Comments

  • 4biaggi
    4biaggi Posts: 2
    I'd say that your lights should work when you need it most; when it's dark AND raining. I've been in this situation when my rear lights failed . When home i discovered that water made it's way inside my new Niterider CherryBomb 1W. The front light from Light and Motion (solite 150) worked flawlessly. That is why i will buy soon a rear light , probably a VIS180 from them.
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    Clingfilm's all you need.
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • madtam
    madtam Posts: 141
    Unless the light is gas tight then too much sealing can be a problem. If the light is used for an extended period and gets warm then the warm air inside will expand and some will escape. When it cools down some outside air, probably damp or high humidity will be sucked back inside. As the outside is likely to cool more rapidly then the interior of the lamp, then a small amount of condensation can form on the inside of the casing. Gradually as this continues over an extended period noticable amounts of liquid can start to form inside the casing. If it is well dealed then any liquid cannot get out but unless impervious to gases then it can continue to absorb moisture up to the point that this causes damage.
    I work for a manufacturing company (industrial products, not bike lights but ...) where this is a known and persistant problem. We either build in small heaters to keep the temperature above dewpoint, or provide drain holes in enclosures. Drain holes can be left open when not exposed to penetrating liquids so allowing the interior to vent a little, or the sealing plugs can be periodically removed to allow any condensate to drain. To be honest, it's more of a problem in larger enclosures with a greater internal free air volume, but all the same I have had more than one light fail I think partly due to damp build up inside that I am not convinced has been direct water ingress. In fact just recently an "O" ring sealed torch kept in the car has failed and when opened it felt damp inside and yet that has been kept in the interior of the car and not exposed to water. I put that down to a build up of condensation, although whether the rechargeable batteries emit something when gradually discharging I have no idea.
  • Gizmo_
    Gizmo_ Posts: 558
    What you need is a light that's completely waterproof, but has a part that can flex when the internal pressure increases or otherwise accommodate the pressure.

    Like divers' watches do...
    Scott Sportster P45 2008 | Cannondale CAAD8 Tiagra 2012
  • gentlegreen
    gentlegreen Posts: 23
    I make my own lights - they're non-flashing so no going out with intermittent contacts - and very free draining - in the sense that I make very little effort to keep the water out - though I've considered trying silicone grease - I make a bit of an effort with the domestic LED spots I use because they have electronic regulators - a bit of silicone sealant as a "roof".

    Doubtless the soldered joints will corrode before the LEDs go dim (I think I worked out once that the LEDs should be good for a century or more of daily commuting :lol: )

    I'm not aware of any failures yet after years of riding nearly 365 days a year in all weathers
    Giant ATX 830 45mm Country-Plus tyres. age 50, 18 stone, flappy hi-vis, basket, bell, kickstand FCN=15 ?,
  • Faye_Yan
    Faye_Yan Posts: 8
    4biaggi wrote:
    I'd say that your lights should work when you need it most; when it's dark AND raining. I've been in this situation when my rear lights failed . When home i discovered that water made it's way inside my new Niterider CherryBomb 1W. The front light from Light and Motion (solite 150) worked flawlessly. That is why i will buy soon a rear light , probably a VIS180 from them.

    :shock: ....your front light do work better than rear one...so...we do care about waterproof of the light system :!:
  • Faye_Yan
    Faye_Yan Posts: 8
    madtam wrote:
    Unless the light is gas tight then too much sealing can be a problem. If the light is used for an extended period and gets warm then the warm air inside will expand and some will escape. When it cools down some outside air, probably damp or high humidity will be sucked back inside. As the outside is likely to cool more rapidly then the interior of the lamp, then a small amount of condensation can form on the inside of the casing. Gradually as this continues over an extended period noticable amounts of liquid can start to form inside the casing. If it is well dealed then any liquid cannot get out but unless impervious to gases then it can continue to absorb moisture up to the point that this causes damage.
    I work for a manufacturing company (industrial products, not bike lights but ...) where this is a known and persistant problem. We either build in small heaters to keep the temperature above dewpoint, or provide drain holes in enclosures. Drain holes can be left open when not exposed to penetrating liquids so allowing the interior to vent a little, or the sealing plugs can be periodically removed to allow any condensate to drain. To be honest, it's more of a problem in larger enclosures with a greater internal free air volume, but all the same I have had more than one light fail I think partly due to damp build up inside that I am not convinced has been direct water ingress. In fact just recently an "O" ring sealed torch kept in the car has failed and when opened it felt damp inside and yet that has been kept in the interior of the car and not exposed to water. I put that down to a build up of condensation, although whether the rechargeable batteries emit something when gradually discharging I have no idea.

    8) seems your story is a little complicated, but you remind me a key point, I think the Drain holes means a lot to a good light system, yes..I think so.
  • Faye_Yan
    Faye_Yan Posts: 8
    Initialised wrote:
    Clingfilm's all you need.

    :roll:
  • Faye_Yan
    Faye_Yan Posts: 8
    Gizmo_ wrote:
    What you need is a light that's completely waterproof, but has a part that can flex when the internal pressure increases or otherwise accommodate the pressure.

    Like divers' watches do...

    :lol: hhhhhh...ya...learning from diving gears... good idea
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    Check out the Fenix torches - they're fully waterproof - so you can submerge them, and they put out more light than most bike lights. They're metal though - so they dissipate the heat that way I guess ?

    Rear lights for me are the danger - they often get spray on unless you have guards and you really dont want your back light going out.
  • Faye_Yan
    Faye_Yan Posts: 8
    8) Can I dive with the torch???

    cougie wrote:
    Check out the Fenix torches - they're fully waterproof - so you can submerge them.......

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