Purchase bolt for front dérailleur?

muran
muran Posts: 105
edited April 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
After my chain came off twice whilst out cycling I set about adjusting the gears and in particular the front derailleur, in doing so I've managed to strip the bolt that secures the end of cable for the front dérailleur gear shifter. Obviously I now can't ride the bike all due to one bolt as I can't secure the cable for the gears.

Can I buy this bolt separately and hope for the best that it hasn't stripped the socket thread at the same time or do I. Now have to buy a complete derailleur?

Only had the bike a coupe of days so any help appreciated.

Comments

  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Just visit a hardware shop, they will match it up for about 12p.
  • muran
    muran Posts: 105
    Is there no standard bolt? Want to make sure it's right. Had a quick look and found this, is this correct?

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=14307
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    That will do, if you don't mind paying £2! I'm a tight git though.

    it is an M5 thread, usually 17mm.
  • muran
    muran Posts: 105
    Would rather not pay £2 but local bike shop will be even more I expect!

    On the subject, what do you think the chances are that the clamp bolt socket will be damaged also? Hoping not as this will mean a whole new front dérailleur I expect?

    Thanks for your help.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Kinda hard to tell until you thread a new one in. Pretty sure bottle bolts are the same - try one in there?
  • muran
    muran Posts: 105
    Bottle bolt?

    Oh, got ya .... The bottle holder bolts ... Sorry!
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    They usually have a fatter head, good for thread size tho.
  • muran
    muran Posts: 105
    Just checked. Fatter head but also seems slightly wider diameter. Also about twice as long as the original (which seems very very short). Sound about right?

    Just measured and the actual thread part of the bolt is exactly 1cm. From what I am reading 17mm seems to be standard size?

    If it makes a difference, this is for a carrera kraken?
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    What Mech? (SRAM X4 from dodgy memory) just take it to a decent hardware store and get a matched coated bolt, as SS says 12p or less (mine charged 6p for one that fitted a shifter clamp) That or put a WTD in the classifieds on here or STW, someone will have a good bolt in a FUBAR mech (I do but am out the country right now)

    On cheaper mechs there is a steel nut (standard M5 on SRAM from memory while Shimano tend to use a square nut) you can replace if its thread is stripped, if you've stripped the bolt it will be obvious looking at it, if the thread looks good, you've done for the nut!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • muran
    muran Posts: 105
    It's the SRAM X-5 on mine. Got a new bolt this morning and thankfully fits fine and tightens so was the bolt not the thread inside.

    Spent all morning trying to get the front derailleur set right so I have smooth gear change, not quite succeeded though, works but changing is clunky. Not helped I suspect by the frayed end to the shift cable meaning I can't tighten it exactly where I want it.

    There must be an art to setting gears up? So many adjustments to get right!
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Change the cable.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • muran
    muran Posts: 105
    cooldad wrote:
    Change the cable.

    That's my next task but even with a new cable I think the gearing problem will continue. Is there some Guide to setting up the front derailleur including:

    The fixing position of the bracket
    Where the limit screws should be when starting the process
    Where the cable adjusters at the lever end should be when starting the process
    What to adjust when the gears will not engage / when the chain slips off / when the gears skip

    ...etc?

    I know these are newbie questions but I have been told these are the most difficult adjustments you can do to a bike?
  • muran
    muran Posts: 105
    Thanks, I actually watched all of those videos and more before raising my query. The reason I went on to ask the question was that my experience wasn't as smooth as any of those and the result was not the desired one.

    The videos don't address such point as those listed and this is where I came unstuck. After much messing about I did get the adjustments such that the gears will change but nowhere near as smoothly as I would have liked. More adjustments to be made for sure - I was just hoping for a full guide aimed at those that haven't tackled it before.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Start with the limit screws screwed out, with the barrel adjuster about half a turn out. Then set up the limit screws per Parktools link. Then connect the cable (a new one) and fine tune with the barrel adjuster. The position of the mech is shown in Parktools.
    Sounds simple but front mechs are nasty clunky things. Rear are much easier and more satisfying to set up.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • muran
    muran Posts: 105
    Thanks for the extra info cooldad, definitely not simple from what I have read from delcol's link! Thanks very much for this delcol, some serious reading in store for me there but from what I have scanned so far, very informative! Even learned a thing or two about how to actually change gear assuming everything set up ok.

    Will get a new gear cable and try again I think. Not from local cycle shop though at the prices they charge, hoping the eBay offerings will suffice!
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    They will but spend a few p more and get stainless cables. I generally replace outers at the same time.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • muran
    muran Posts: 105
    Will do. Only really need to replace one rather than a complete overhaul but might consider it depending on price.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I use wilkinson supermarket inner gear cables, galvanised and 79p each, had it on my commuter now for 3 years......
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • muran
    muran Posts: 105
    I use wilkinson supermarket inner gear cables, galvanised and 79p each, had it on my commuter now for 3 years......

    Nice tip thanks, wouldn't have even considered them for bike gear. Next purchase will be a tyre though, can't see them being of too much use in that department.

    Will definitely check out the cables, thanks!