saddle/bar height

Bazzowmb

Is anyone aware of a general rule of thumb of what the maximum difference should be between your saddle and handlebar height?

The obvious answer is whatever is comfortable for you but I seem to remember an old article on getting the correct bike size/setup in Cycling Plus where it gave some general guidelines.

I've had a quick look on Bikeradar but couldn't find it.

xpc316e

I'd go for what you find comfortable. Bike fitting is full of myth: the distance between these two components must be 107% of the measurement between the rider's crutch and the floor, etc. These myths can be a good starting point, but that's all they are. Riding a bike for most of us needs to be a pleasant experience; racers contort themselves into aerodynamic positions that may win races, but not what you'd want for a two week tour.

I recommend this website for the refreshing opinions in the blog:

http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/

Good Luck!

straas

I currently have a drop of about 13cm from saddle to top of bars.

Felt a bit weird (like going downhill) at first, but no ill effects after a hilly 42 miler, if anything gave a bit more confidence when going downhill.. Saying that my neck was a bit stiff at first - but I'd been off the bike for a month or so due to having my old one nicked!

Very generally it seems like 10-16cm is 'racy' with anything 2-8cm as 'relaxed' though obviously depends on limb length top tube length etc.

Sunderland Supporter

The distance from top of saddle to headset on my bike was once in the 10 cm range and I learnt very quickly that it was way too aggressive for me as I really sufferred with neck ache as a result. Ive got the height difference now at a much more comfortable (for me) setting of around 6 cm and it makes a world of difference. Pressure in the hands when riding on the hoods is completely gone ,no neck ache,no lower back fatigue and riding on my broken in selle san marco rolls saddle in this position is just a joy. Pay attention to the height between saddle top and headset to help get the riding position for you.

itsnotarace

straas wrote:

Very generally it seems like 10-16cm is 'racy' with anything 2-8cm as 'relaxed' though obviously depends on limb length top tube length etc.

lolwut. There is no "very generally" about it and certainly nothing "racy" or "relaxed", it is purely a measurement based on inside leg measurement and the person's flexibility...and to an extent, how much pain they are willing to put up with.

Coach H

Rememeber your own body shape.
I am 6 foot tall, one of my friends is 6 foot tall
I have short arms and legs and a long body, my friend has long arms and legs and a short body
I have a 4cm drop, my friend has an 11 cm drop
I have a lower torso angle than my friend!

Get your bike set up right for YOU! I reccomend Adrian Timmis at Cadence Sport way above any arbitary cm measurements.

Gizmo_

itsnotarace wrote:

straas wrote:

Very generally it seems like 10-16cm is 'racy' with anything 2-8cm as 'relaxed' though obviously depends on limb length top tube length etc.

lolwut. There is no "very generally" about it and certainly nothing "racy" or "relaxed", it is purely a measurement based on inside leg measurement and the person's flexibility...and to an extent, how much pain they are willing to put up with.

Definitely more about flexibility. A few years' worth of beer and pies mean I'm not sure I could reach bars 10cm below the saddle

cyco2

I have recently built a bike and I have the best position on it of all my bikes and after reading you OP I checked it out.
I put a strap around the down tube and wheel to stop it moving. When I sat on it with cycling shoes on my heal sits on the pedal with a very slight stretch. This is because of the pedalling style I like. Some may want the heal on the pedal with a relaxed leg. I then lent forward and gripped the bar tops and looking at that bars I could see the front axle in line with them. I used a 120mm adjustable stem so I could get the saddle to bar height right for me, 80mm. So when I get rid of a bit of belly sag I can easily drop it to get flatter. I have used the two dimensions of the heal/pedal and bar/axle position as a start point and have always been happy with the result.

cyberknight

http://www.jimlangley.net/crank/bikefit.html
works for me.
As someone else said flexibility and arm/torso length play a part, i am 5 foot 7 " and i find a drop of 5-6 cm gets me as low as some taller riders with more drop.
Another factor is comfort, you can be as low as you like but if your so low the aero advantage can be compromising your power output if your uncomfortable.

Sunderland Supporter

Ive seen bikes with saddles so high they look as they are skimming the underside of the clouds :shock: and riders stretched out looking so uncomfortable that onlookers can virtually feel it. Ya can try to "look" pro all ya want, doesnt automatically follow that ya ride pro.

Bazzowmb

Cheers everyone, appreciate the input and i've added the couple of useful links to my favourites for future reference.

I'm going to have a play around with my headset spacers and try out a slightly lower position - I can always revert back if it gets uncomfortable but at the same time I guess i've got to give it a fair go.

Thanks again.

klep

Useful vid for basic bike fitting, should help setting up your saddle.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrZBjOloChg

Heres a nice vid for some specific information about handlebar adjustment to personal preferrance:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNKxVcy5Skk

rpd_steve

I just think that it's key to remember what sort of riding you do, and that it is a balance between aero savings and comfort. You may save 5 W by slamming your stem onto the frame which may result in a 0.1-0.2 mph increace in average. IF however that makes you uncomforable, and ease off at some point, it would only take 3 min of extra free-wheeling on the flat over a 2 hour ride at 80mph to outweigh the lower stem (based on generic CFD/windtunnel data I have).

So yes lower IS better, but only if you are comforable/can press hard with the postion. Pros adapt every day over years into the postion, you and I have not... (and they get a nice rub down and pay cheque at the end of it!)

Drop it until you feel cour comfort is compromised, then see if you 'grow into it' in a week, if not raise it a tad to make you comfy.

Or you can slam it to make you look bad-ass at the cake stop. 8)

Wirral_paul

RPD Steve wrote:

it would only take 3 min of extra free-wheeling on the flat over a 2 hour ride at 80mph to outweigh the lower stem (based on generic CFD/windtunnel data I have).

If you'd have ridden Paris - Roubaix yesterday, you'd have won before the Eurosport coverage even started!! Aerodynamics would be important as any lift may see you take off

dazza Cox

^^^^^ LMAO ^^^^^

rpd_steve

Bugger I meant 18mph!!!! 8)

JohanBrylcream

I remember in the 90's it was all the rage to have your saddle as far back as it would go and adjust your stem to suit. Look at most pro bikes now and the opposite is true, saddle far forward, super long stem and massive saddle to handlebar differential. The problem is that most normal cyclists muscles are not used to this so any changes should be made gradually as others have suggested.

Before the threadless headset came into fashion most people had the conventional threaded type which had a ball bearing race and retaining nut which came up from the frame by probably best part of 1". Even those who would have had a quill stem flat on the headset would probably have 1" or 1 1/2" of spacers to get the same position on a threadless design. There is growing trend that unless you have the stem right down on the headtube that it simply isnt cool and that lots of spacers compromises carbon fork steerer safety. This is pure twaddle for the most part although you probably dont want to overdo the spacers!

Its sad that with the popularity of cycling you still see numpties toodling around with their saddles tips pointing in the air or to the ground and their lever hoods so far down the drops their knuckles are dragging on the ground. I think this is the primate school of bike fitting. Seriously though I would rather have a cheap bike set up properly than a few grands worth of carbon set up badly.