Swapping Avid Elixir 3 for Shimano Deore brakes

jndb72
jndb72 Posts: 629
edited April 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi All,

Looking for a bit of advice. My Canyon AM 5.0 has Avid Elixir 3 brakes as standard. But, for a few reasons I'm looking at swapping them for a set of Shimano Deore brakes, both front and rear. Is it an easy enough process to swap them over for a maintenance noob like myself. I've looked on the interweb and it seems the Shimano's come fully bleed. I'm hoping it's a case of stripping off the existing brakes and then fitting the new ones? Would the Shimano's fit without the requirment of additional adapters etc and would I need any special set of tools?

Looking at saving myself some pennies doing this myself and also looking to do more and more of my own maintenance so please go easy if this is a stupid question.

Thanks in advace.

Cheers

J
2011 Canyon Nerve AM 5.0
2009 Specialized Rockhopper Disc

I might have alzheimer's but atleast I don't have alzheimer's

Comments

  • are they the same mounts and adapters ie is or post mount?

    the hoses may be too long/ short

    are the cable runs internal if so they obviously need to be taken apart and rebled

    providing the mounts are the same then they will bolt on straight out of the box
    worst moment ever...
    buzzing down twisting single track then.... psssst BANG!!!
  • Also assuming you got 6 bolt rotors for the shimano ones, as they often come with their centre locking system, where as im imagining the avids are 6bolts, if not, you can buy adapters.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    What are these reasons? The Elixirs are just as good as the Deore.
  • jndb72
    jndb72 Posts: 629
    supersonic wrote:
    What are these reasons? The Elixirs are just as good as the Deore.

    The bike had a service about 6 weeks ago and the guy said the master cylinder was leaking (either air or fluid, I can't remember). He also said one of the piston's\calibers (again I can't remember) was sticking, which meant it wasn't moving when I pulled the brake leaver, meaning the rotor was being pushed (by the piston\caliber) that was working, against the one that wasn't (if this makes sense). This is all on the front brake, the rear brake is working OK. He basically said the break needed replacing, and reccommended the Shimano Deore.

    As for the other questions above I'll need to see how the current brakes are mounted are where the cables are run when I give the bike a clean on Sunday.

    Cheers
    2011 Canyon Nerve AM 5.0
    2009 Specialized Rockhopper Disc

    I might have alzheimer's but atleast I don't have alzheimer's
  • davewalsh
    davewalsh Posts: 587
    There can be issues fitting other manufacturers brakes to Avid post mount adaptors for 180 / 185 discs. If the adaptor is one where the spacing is different top and bottom and it uses a single pair of different length bolts that pass through the caliper, adaptor and into the fork, there will not work with any other caliper as they rely on the CPS washers to accommodate the mismatch.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Sticky pistons can be sorted. I think he is talking shite, to be honest.
  • sparky.2002
    sparky.2002 Posts: 118
    I agree, the robbing sod wants your money.. If you really had a sticking piston, it would have been you telling him, not him telling you!!. You would have noticed that your wheels didn't spin as freely and you would have had endless annoying noise coming from the brakes... Tell him to F off.
  • jndb72
    jndb72 Posts: 629
    supersonic wrote:
    Sticky pistons can be sorted. I think he is talking shite, to be honest.

    Thanks, Supersonic.

    Is this a job a noob could have a crack at. I'm willing to have a go and learn some stuff as long as it's not rocket science.

    Thanks
    2011 Canyon Nerve AM 5.0
    2009 Specialized Rockhopper Disc

    I might have alzheimer's but atleast I don't have alzheimer's
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Remove the wheel and press the lever very slowly while looking at the pads (don't squeeze them all thw way together!). Does one move more than the other, or one stuck? If so, remove pads and clean the piston area with plain water. Dry it off and try again, just ease the pistons out very slightly (just a mm!). Still sticky? Hold down the moving piston with a tyre lever or similar, pull the brake lever slightly and force the other piston out. Clean again! Add a drop of mineral fluid to the seals, and push the pistons back in with the tyre lever. Keep repeating, and cleaning, and lubing until they move freely.

    Never, EVER pull the lever too far and push the pistons all the way out! Once you are happy, wipe up all excess fluid, refit pads and wheel, centre caliper, make sure rotor isn't bent, pull the lever a few times to set the pistons, ride and let bed in.
  • 386ka
    386ka Posts: 479
    I thought that Avid use Dot 4 or 5.1, not mineral fluid?
    A much loved, Giant Trance X3 2010
  • jndb72
    jndb72 Posts: 629
    supersonic wrote:
    Remove the wheel and press the lever very slowly while looking at the pads (don't squeeze them all thw way together!). Does one move more than the other, or one stuck? If so, remove pads and clean the piston area with plain water. Dry it off and try again, just ease the pistons out very slightly (just a mm!). Still sticky? Hold down the moving piston with a tyre lever or similar, pull the brake lever slightly and force the other piston out. Clean again! Add a drop of mineral fluid to the seals, and push the pistons back in with the tyre lever. Keep repeating, and cleaning, and lubing until they move freely.

    Never, EVER pull the lever too far and push the pistons all the way out! Once you are happy, wipe up all excess fluid, refit pads and wheel, centre caliper, make sure rotor isn't bent, pull the lever a few times to set the pistons, ride and let bed in.

    Thanks Sonic, you may have saved me a small fortune. I followed your advice but the piston didn't appear to be stuck. However, when I took the pads out they were very very dirty, and the surface was covered in a grease like substance. On further inspection it seems the rotors were as well. I cleaned them both with a clean, dry cloth and put them back in and the braking seems much better (not perfect, but better). Is there a reccomended cleaning liquid for the pads and rotors. I think with a good clean they may be ok.

    Thanks for your help.

    Cheers
    2011 Canyon Nerve AM 5.0
    2009 Specialized Rockhopper Disc

    I might have alzheimer's but atleast I don't have alzheimer's
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Rotors are best cleaned with pure alcohol, but often the coating on them is brake pad residue - this is important for the bedding in.

    Pads should be left alone, if are contaminated with oil, best to replace.