Upgrade current or buy new?

Barold
Barold Posts: 4
edited March 2012 in Road buying advice
I've recently got hold of an old road bike. The frame is sound but nothing special, and probably a fraction on the small side for me. I need to make a number of adjustments to the setup: Change from tubular to clincher rims, new saddle, new pedals (currently 80s Shimano 105s, where the only option is to tie your feet in), and move gear levers from downtube to handlebars (not essential but I'd like to do it if possible).

I've got a budget of £150 to do this, so my main question is whether it would be better to try and get parts to make these changes, or whether I should get myself something like a Viking Sprint for a similar price?

If the 2nd option then any advice on what to go for? I've already got a reasonable mountain bike so definitely after road rather than hybrid. Doing anything up to 100km at the weekend plus daily 25km roundtrips in summer.

Thanks in advance
Joe

Comments

  • iPete
    iPete Posts: 6,076
    Without trying to come across as snobbish I wouldn't touch a new £150 bike, not for 100km rides. It'll get the job done but I wouldn't expect it to be reliable, last long or be comfortable to ride.

    What is the old road bike? It could be tricky to upgrade or very nice and worth restoring..

    And welcome to the forums! :D
  • Barold
    Barold Posts: 4
    Not snobbish at all, I was expecting that sort of opinion of bottom rung bikes and I largely agree with.

    (pause while I get home to check on the old bike)

    Can't find any kind of label/markings on the frame, but the gears, brakes, levers etc are Shimano RX100s. Biopace-sg crank, Mavic Tubs, but I'll be replacing those with clinchers. Frame has a few small nicks but is in fine shape otherwise, but a little small - theres a risk of catching my toes on the front wheel when I turn.

    Thanks, and for the quick reply.
  • ShutUpLegs
    ShutUpLegs Posts: 3,522
    Barold wrote:
    Not snobbish at all, I was expecting that sort of opinion of bottom rung bikes and I largely agree with.

    (pause while I get home to check on the old bike)

    Can't find any kind of label/markings on the frame, but the gears, brakes, levers etc are Shimano RX100s. Biopace-sg crank, Mavic Tubs, but I'll be replacing those with clinchers. Frame has a few small nicks but is in fine shape otherwise, but a little small - theres a risk of catching my toes on the front wheel when I turn.

    Thanks, and for the quick reply.

    Toe overlap is not the end of the world, unless you crash and die – then it is.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I get toe overlap on my contemporary alu bike which is a perfect fit for me, so don't worry about that. You just have to get used to the fact you can't pedal round in tiny circles.

    Restoring the old frame with bits harvested from Ebay will likely give you a nicer ride than a £150 BSO.
  • Barold
    Barold Posts: 4
    Toe overlap is not the end of the world, unless you crash and die – then it is.
    It wouldn't be too bad, but with the 105 pedals and mtb shoes my feet have a tendancy to charge the front forks more than I'd like. Mind you I haven't had a death-crash from it yet, mainly because the wife has told me I'll be in SUCH trouble if i do.

    Right then, to ebay and the classified forum! Any top tips on pedals + rims to avoid/aim for within my miniscule budget?

    Ta
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    If you plan to use the mtb shoes then M520 pedals are the cheapest reliable option I think.

    If you're intending to put new rims / spokes on the existing hubs, I'll leave that to the experts. Ditto advice on second hand / Ebay wheelsets.

    If you want new wheels, Merlin often have good offers