First race specific frame advice
carbon337
Posts: 414
Getting more serious as a 4th cat - got a 3rd and a 1st from my first two races. So hoping to push on into 2/3 teritory.
Other than working on my training Im thinking I really need a new frame. Currently using a 2010 Banchi Via nirone alu/carbon thing. WIth Full ultegra and Ksyrium elites its 19lbs.
Im hoping to knock a bit off that wight and get something stiffer and more powerfull.
Money is tight but what would you recommend under 1k? Ribble Stealth, Planet X N2A (availability) or others.
Im thinking something from the lesser known brands - chinese frame but from a UK company for a bit warranty support.
Im I missing any other obvious ones?
Other than working on my training Im thinking I really need a new frame. Currently using a 2010 Banchi Via nirone alu/carbon thing. WIth Full ultegra and Ksyrium elites its 19lbs.
Im hoping to knock a bit off that wight and get something stiffer and more powerfull.
Money is tight but what would you recommend under 1k? Ribble Stealth, Planet X N2A (availability) or others.
Im thinking something from the lesser known brands - chinese frame but from a UK company for a bit warranty support.
Im I missing any other obvious ones?
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Comments
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Vankru VK7 - http://www.vankru.com/#/frames/4543957929 ???
A localish race team are using them and it says 3yr warranty for £7500 -
Same frame for cheaper http://www.fuertebici.com/shop/fb1-carbon-frame/
It's ultimately a DengFu (FlyBike) FM015 frame. I bought one direct from China (for about 400 quid) and it's a brilliant frame.0 -
When you find a more powerful frame please let us know0
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You say you need a new frame and money is tight but you have a couple of good results on your current frame so do you really 'need' a new frame? Don't get me wrong, we all like to have new stuff and I certainly wouldn't want to put anyone off buying new kit but if money is tight why not keep riding what you are currently winning races on? If you genuinely think the answer is yes is the £1,000 budget for a frame only as you have decent groupset and reaonable wheels. For £1,000 you might just be able to pick up an Addict R2.0
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By all means get a new frame if you want one, but best not delude yourself into thinking it'll make you better. Your current frame is light enough and stiff enough for any amateur racer.More problems but still living....0
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Would you go used?
If so you'll get a pro level frame for £1k.
If not, perhaps consider some faster wheels?Blog on my first and now second season of proper riding/racing - www.firstseasonracing.com0 -
Send me some details I will take a look.
Ideally though if i was going used i wouldnt really want to pay more than £500.
I'm happy enough with these wheels in fact i only bought them last week.
Im not expecting a miracle from a frame but would like something lighter and less flexy. The Carbon to alu joints in the rear non drive side dropout came lose last week - i tightened it up but there is still creaking noises coming from the joint.
Ive been told that the frame could weigh 2kg plus the alu/carbon fork so it musnt be of decent quality. Light, strong, chinese frame something like Ribble Stealth or the Fuerte Bici or Dolan Ares Lt sound ideal to me in pricipal.0 -
Why?
I bought a Cervelo s2 for well under a grand and it was in pristine condition, is a pro tour level frame and leaves me with nothing to blame but legs.Blog on my first and now second season of proper riding/racing - www.firstseasonracing.com0 -
I can see why you want to change the frame - that doesn't sound good! However, there are decent aluminium frames that can be light and stiff. It sounds like yours is just knackered for some reason. Have a look at the Dolan framsets if you are looking for something carbon and new - they also do a titanium frameset for £1k.0
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I have gone from Cat 5 to competitive at Cat 2 on a CAAD9, the bike still has far more potential than my legs are capable of exploiting. I'd like a more exotic bike for other types of rides but at the moment i would not choose any other frame to race on (Wheels are a different story) even if i could afford it. From what i hear the CAAD10 is just as good even if it is made overseas now.0
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I ditched my planet x for an aluminium unbranded with carbon stays
It is far far better for racing than my planet x (sl pro carbon) Very very stiff and so responsive0 -
Tom Dean wrote:When you find a more powerful frame please let us knowCAPTAIN BUCKFAST'S CYCLING TIPS - GUARANTEED TO WORK! 1 OUT OF 10 RACING CYCLISTS AGREE!0
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cannondale caad100
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trickydisco wrote:I ditched my planet x for an aluminium unbranded with carbon stays
It is far far better for racing than my planet x (sl pro carbon) Very very stiff and so responsive
Can you please explain to me exactly what this means? How does a non-responsive frame behave?More problems but still living....0 -
amaferanga wrote:trickydisco wrote:I ditched my planet x for an aluminium unbranded with carbon stays
It is far far better for racing than my planet x (sl pro carbon) Very very stiff and so responsive
Can you please explain to me exactly what this means? How does a non-responsive frame behave?
I suppose it's one of those quotes you read about in these bike magazines. But to me it means i could feel lots of flex in my previous carbon frame. So i could feel the front end flexing and when i put the power down the frame didn't feel that stiff. . This frame being made of mainly aluminium in comparison feels stiffer then my previous carbon frame and therefore more responsive...
Not sure what responsive means to you but that's what it means to me0 -
maybe it might be worth asking all the reviewers of cycling plus as well?
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=respo ... =firefox-a0 -
Responsive-ness = 'how quickly / directly it responds'... If the bottom bracket is swaying about then it's not going to feel like all your sprinting power is pushing you forwards. If the frame is stiff then push down on pedal = push bike forwards - hence more responsive. Interesting that an alu frame feels stiffer to TD than a carbon one - i'd always thought it'd be the other way round...
The other thing to think about is in terms of handling - this will be more about the bike geometry - i.e. the frame design may put your weight in a different place relative to the wheelbase - so when you shift your weight about the bike will corner more readily. 'responsively' etc. If you ride a MTB then a road bike back to back you'll probably notice that sort of 'responsiveness' difference quite quickly - it might be harder to discern, therefore less of an issue, between different road bikes though...0