the right tools for the job?
felix.london
Posts: 4,067
Just checking I've got all the right tools for the jobs in hand :?
The jobs;
1/ Remove (2006) Deore crankset & BB
2/ Install SLX (dual/bash) crankset & BB (I believe these are both Hollowtech II units ?)
3/ Remove 9sp Shimano cassette
4/ Install 10sp Shimano cassette
The tools (I have);
Crank extractor (square taper / ISIS / Octolink)
BB Tool ( http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=10179
Lockring Remover - Shimano
'Turn Table' Chain Whip
Am I missing some vital piece of equipment to get these jobs done properly?
I have swapped out Cranks/BB's in my previous MTB life but that was over 20 years ago :shock: I don't think I've ever removed or replaced cassettes though.
Your help/advice is appreciated as always.
The jobs;
1/ Remove (2006) Deore crankset & BB
2/ Install SLX (dual/bash) crankset & BB (I believe these are both Hollowtech II units ?)
3/ Remove 9sp Shimano cassette
4/ Install 10sp Shimano cassette
The tools (I have);
Crank extractor (square taper / ISIS / Octolink)
BB Tool ( http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=10179
Lockring Remover - Shimano
'Turn Table' Chain Whip
Am I missing some vital piece of equipment to get these jobs done properly?
I have swapped out Cranks/BB's in my previous MTB life but that was over 20 years ago :shock: I don't think I've ever removed or replaced cassettes though.
Your help/advice is appreciated as always.
"Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 8
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 8
0
Comments
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You seem to have it sussed but is the Deore unit external bearings if not then you will need a splined BB tool to remove it.
Be careful tightening the pre load cap on the SLX crank with that BB tool they should only be finger tight to take out any side to side play, then you do up the pinch bolts carefully and in sequence. Too many people tighten the pre load cap till there eyes bulge then blame Shimano when the bearings die 2 months later because of too much side loading.
If you got the instructions with the new crankset read them several times or go onto Shimanos website to read them there they are easy to fit but easy to balls up.
By the way has the frame had its BB shell faced might be a good idea to check as some bikes are miles out and it does nothing good to the bearing life.
ps: read the FAQs on this site and have a read of Park tools and or SheldonBrown plenty of tips.Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap0 -
No crank extractor needed.
Have a read of the info on Parktools as it also lists all the tools needed for the jobs."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Splined BB tool for the old deore BB (unless it's external, but I doubt it).
Get the BB shell faced too.0 -
Angry Bird wrote:
Get the BB shell faced too."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
stubs wrote:You seem to have it sussed but is the Deore unit external bearings if not then you will need a splined BB tool to remove it.
I don't think so :? I looks like an old-style BB.
Something like this? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=73457"Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 80 -
nicklouse wrote:No crank extractor needed.
Have a read of the info on Parktools as it also lists all the tools needed for the jobs.
OK - so that was a tenner wasted. Will def be checking out Parktools.
Cheers."Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 80 -
Angry Bird wrote:Get the BB shell faced too.
What exactly does this mean? Sounds like a job for the lbs? The temptation then is just get them to remove & install the BB too"Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 80 -
felix.london wrote:stubs wrote:You seem to have it sussed but is the Deore unit external bearings if not then you will need a splined BB tool to remove it.
I don't think so :? I looks like an old-style BB.
Something like this? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=73457
This the one I use I prefer them with a fixed handle less chance of slipping and chewing up a knuckle or knackering the splines X-Tools BB toolFig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap0 -
felix.london wrote:Angry Bird wrote:Get the BB shell faced too.
What exactly does this mean? Sounds like a job for the lbs? The temptation then is just get them to remove & install the BB too
A cutting tool is used to shave off any paint or burrs on the BB shell to allow the external bearing cups to sit absolutely parallel. Stops the bearings getting unequal loads which can shorten the life. Costs about £10 to £20 from a decent bike shop. You could get the shop to do the whole job but then you will never learn how to fix your bike. The facing needs a tool costing £100s so not sensible to buy.Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap0 -
felix.london wrote:Angry Bird wrote:Get the BB shell faced too.
What exactly does this mean? Sounds like a job for the lbs? The temptation then is just get them to remove & install the BB too"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
stubs wrote:This the one I use I prefer them with a fixed handle less chance of slipping and chewing up a knuckle or knackering the splines X-Tools BB tool
Sorted. Ordered. Cheers"Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 80 -
stubs wrote:A cutting tool is used to shave off any paint or burrs on the BB shell to allow the external bearing cups to sit absolutely parallel. Stops the bearings getting unequal loads which can shorten the life. Costs about £10 to £20 from a decent bike shop. You could get the shop to do the whole job but then you will never learn how to fix your bike. The facing needs a tool costing £100s so not sensible to buy.
Got it. Makes sense.
Thanks for your help."Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 80 -
felix.london wrote:stubs wrote:This the one I use I prefer them with a fixed handle less chance of slipping and chewing up a knuckle or knackering the splines X-Tools BB tool
Sorted. Ordered. Cheers
If the BB is really tight and is the type with a hole through the spindle get yourself a long bolt or length of studding some washers and nuts and then bolt the tool through the hole and right through the BB. Stops the tool jumping out and damaging the splines, also allows you to give a gentle persuading with a mallet.Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap0 -
you got a 10 speed chain?--
Burls Ti Tourer for Tarmac, Saracen aluminium full suss for trails0 -
And new mech and shifter.I don't do smileys.
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