the right tools for the job?

Just checking I've got all the right tools for the jobs in hand :?
The jobs;
1/ Remove (2006) Deore crankset & BB
2/ Install SLX (dual/bash) crankset & BB (I believe these are both Hollowtech II units ?)
3/ Remove 9sp Shimano cassette
4/ Install 10sp Shimano cassette
The tools (I have);
Crank extractor (square taper / ISIS / Octolink)
BB Tool ( http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=10179
Lockring Remover - Shimano
'Turn Table' Chain Whip
Am I missing some vital piece of equipment to get these jobs done properly?
I have swapped out Cranks/BB's in my previous MTB life but that was over 20 years ago :shock: I don't think I've ever removed or replaced cassettes though.
Your help/advice is appreciated as always.
The jobs;
1/ Remove (2006) Deore crankset & BB
2/ Install SLX (dual/bash) crankset & BB (I believe these are both Hollowtech II units ?)
3/ Remove 9sp Shimano cassette
4/ Install 10sp Shimano cassette
The tools (I have);
Crank extractor (square taper / ISIS / Octolink)
BB Tool ( http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=10179
Lockring Remover - Shimano
'Turn Table' Chain Whip
Am I missing some vital piece of equipment to get these jobs done properly?
I have swapped out Cranks/BB's in my previous MTB life but that was over 20 years ago :shock: I don't think I've ever removed or replaced cassettes though.
Your help/advice is appreciated as always.
"Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 8
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 8
0
Posts
Be careful tightening the pre load cap on the SLX crank with that BB tool they should only be finger tight to take out any side to side play, then you do up the pinch bolts carefully and in sequence. Too many people tighten the pre load cap till there eyes bulge then blame Shimano when the bearings die 2 months later because of too much side loading.
If you got the instructions with the new crankset read them several times or go onto Shimanos website to read them there they are easy to fit but easy to balls up.
By the way has the frame had its BB shell faced might be a good idea to check as some bikes are miles out and it does nothing good to the bearing life.
ps: read the FAQs on this site and have a read of Park tools and or SheldonBrown plenty of tips.
Have a read of the info on Parktools as it also lists all the tools needed for the jobs.
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
Get the BB shell faced too.
Winter
Racey
Special Favourite
If in doubt, blame Wiggle.
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
I don't think so :? I looks like an old-style BB.
Something like this? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=73457
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 8
OK - so that was a tenner wasted. Will def be checking out Parktools.
Cheers.
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 8
What exactly does this mean? Sounds like a job for the lbs? The temptation then is just get them to remove & install the BB too
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 8
This the one I use I prefer them with a fixed handle less chance of slipping and chewing up a knuckle or knackering the splines X-Tools BB tool
A cutting tool is used to shave off any paint or burrs on the BB shell to allow the external bearing cups to sit absolutely parallel. Stops the bearings getting unequal loads which can shorten the life. Costs about £10 to £20 from a decent bike shop. You could get the shop to do the whole job but then you will never learn how to fix your bike. The facing needs a tool costing £100s so not sensible to buy.
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
Sorted. Ordered. Cheers
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 8
Got it. Makes sense.
Thanks for your help.
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 8
If the BB is really tight and is the type with a hole through the spindle get yourself a long bolt or length of studding some washers and nuts and then bolt the tool through the hole and right through the BB. Stops the tool jumping out and damaging the splines, also allows you to give a gentle persuading with a mallet.
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